I've been working on resurrecting a '64 Cutlass Convertible that I found in storage over the past few weekends. This thing has been sitting since at least the late 70s and I'm trying to get the engine to at least ignite some carb starter.

I've replaced the ignition coil, condenser, points, rotor, distributor cap, and spark plugs. The engine does turn over with the starter and I am getting spark from the plugs. Unfortunately it won't ignite any fresh fuel, not even spray starter fluid. Is there something I'm missing?

Engine is the original Olds 330 V8 w/ 4 barrel carb. Almost everything in it is original save for the parts I replaced. The car has been kept in a pole building for 40+ years.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

 

Check point gap and or timing.

 

Correct firing order and direction? Olds distributors turn in the opposite direction from Chevies. Also keep in mind that you can check timing with a timing light while cranking. The engine doesn't need to be running.

 

^See above^

Also, did you take the distributor out?
(kinda to Joe's point...could just be timing/order out of whack- I've seen the wrong distributor direction listed on a few diagrams for Olds)

 

Compression test should be number one on the list. Could have some valves stuck open and some stuck rings

 

^^^X2^^^ And add some lubricant to the cylinders.

'64 has shaft rockers that are basically unobtainable. I'd pull the distributor and prime the engine with the oil pump. If not then pull the valve covers and flood the rockers and pushrods with thin weight oil e.g. 5W-30 so it seeps in. Before the banter commences, I'm not recommending the engine to be normally run on 5W-30.

​​​​

 

No, he shouldn’t add lube to the cylinders..that will mask any problems with the rings.

and no, he doesn’t need to prime it you idiot..he’s been cranking it over for a long time already,, it’s been primed

the compression test should have been done right at the start.

 

Why call somebody you don't even know an idiot. Sounds like you need to take some anger management classes.

 

I've never actually performed a compression test before. I do have a tool for it though. What psi should I be looking for?

 

on a healthy 330 I would say somewhere around 155 to 165

on yours , you are looking for an obvious sign of big differences. But, even if it had a couple real low ones, it should still fire and run if it’s sparking when it should.

near zero on any of them usually means a stuck open valve. You’ll have to remove the valve covers to see if you can free them up.

 

I pulled the valve covers and checked to see if anything appeared to be seized up. All of the valves, rockers, etc appear to be free and moving fine.

However, a new problem has reared its ugly head now. The starter has slowed down dramatically (even with a fresh battery with good charge), and sometimes just spins without engaging the engine at all. It was a little slow when I first began tinkering, but now its atrocious.

I'm going to have to get under the car somehow (its parked on a gravel floor deep behind a lot of other stored items in a pole building) to try and replace it. I have one to swap onto it, at least.

 

Still refusing to do a compression test? You said you have the gauge, why not do it

it would eliminate any mechanical issues with it..just because you see some valve movement, it doesn’t mean it’s making compression

 

Am I going to get an accurate compression reading if its cranking so slow?