Hello,

I need some advise, i have my driver exhaust manifold broken, and i already broke one bolt that maintain it.
Who know how i should process to extract the other bolt without breaking them ?
Ad does anyone know where i could find the driver exhaust manifold part? used one ?
Thanks again see you ssoon !

 

Is it the bolt to manifold or the head?

 

i broke the head the bolt is still in there!
Should i het the bolt with a torch ? is the head cylinder is iron ? not aluminum?

 

And wherer i could find one ?

 

You don't want to heat the bolts and with the manifold still attached it makes it hard to heat the head. Penetrating oil is also hard to use as it won't hardly wick past the manifold fast. You have to spray it on and let it soak over a long period of time, days.

As for the one that's broke, see if there is enough sticking out to get a nut welded on the end and then keep soaking with penetrant. Gently loosen and tighten until it breaks loose.
If that does not work it will need to be drilled out.

 

Why do not heat the bolt with the moniafold attached ?
that 's a mecanics guy that told me , heat it and try slowly to remove it.

 

Kano Kroil is a pretty good penetrating oil, but can be hard to find except at industrial supply places.
Another thought is Hoppes Gun Solvent for cleaning guns and an "acid brush". Hoppes can be found at a lot of places, hardwares, sport shops, Cabela's, etc.
The "acid brushes" can be found locally. They have stiff bristles and hold a lot of liquid.
Perhaps Oldcutlass has a favorite penetrating oil too. Wicking in enough penetrating oil/solvent takes time.
I would try to drip some on the bolt head as well as the surface between the head and exhaust manifold. It will take dripping some for a few days or a long time. Broken bolts are a "****", they usually break off flush or below. PATIENCE IS IMPORTANT HERE.
Do as Oldcutlass says.


......just my two cents worth

 

When you heat the bolt it expands into the cold head making it even tighter. Heating the cylinder head causes it to expand around the cooler bolt. Also if you heat the bolt and turn it while its very hot, it becomes softer and will break off easier.

 

I have found that heating the area around the bolt then let candle wax melt into the threads will loosen the bolt.

 

Ok so i will wait, i will start to work on brake while oil will try to go inside !

 

Molason:
I've attached pics of the manifold I have.

 

When I needed to replace the rear oxygen sensor on my Jeep it was seized so tight it was practically rusted solid. I was able to heat it with a MAP gas torch and apply Kroil to it. Kroil is advertised as "the oil that creeps" and it was able to penetrate the threads while hot fast enough that the sensor broke loose in less than 30 minutes. Heat the bolt and the head as much as you can and drop the Kroil on the bolts repeatedly until it cools. Let it cool and try twisting the bolt back and forth until it frees up. As it loosens up unscrew it until it gets tight again. Do the back and forth thing until it completely unscrews.

This is not always successful but it has worked on occasion for me.

 

Heating the bolt then letting it cool and repeating this for a few cycles will help to release the rust. Adding penetrating oil when still warm helps it wick in. Tapping on the bolt head ( if possible) while trying to turn it sometimes helps. As has been said don't try to turn the bolt when it's hot.