oldss72

Hello,
I am rebuilding my 72 cutlass 350. Everything is apart. I am debating on having the crank cut, or just polished and wanted peoples opinions. I mic'd up the crank myself with a calibrated micrometer, and all the journals were within spec and looked really good. The engine had 120k on it, and always had at least 15-20# of pressure. Local machine shop that did my heads wants $50 to polish it, however, I don't know if I should just have it cut and be done with it. Here are the specs:

350 block, honed, std. bore
14cc dish pistons - new
7a Heads milled .030 measured at 66cc, 3 angle valve job, new Lunati springs, AIR bumps removed, heat crossover filled
Lunati Voodoo cam - 256/262 60801LK
.028 head gaskets
Holley SD intake
Holley 600 carb/qjet depending on what I want
HEI dist.
Basic cheap rebuild, but hoping for close to 9:1 static cr, with .020 deck height, I should be right there

Should I just have the crank polished, or have it cut .010 under. I am close to hitting my budget, but don't want to risk having bad oil pressure and have to do it again. Any estimates on the HP as well? anyone build anything close to this recently, if so, are you pleased? I should have a dynamic CR of 8.2, 160# pressure according to calculators online. Any other opinions/comments are welcome as well!

Thanks,
Joe

henryk8398

If the journals are good and there are no discernible grooves, just polish them. Less money and you can get more rebuilds out of that motor!

I'm new to Olds, but I'm getting the impression that they have a lot in common with pontiac. That said, sounds like a combination that would be a blast to drive!

Bluevista

A lot in common with a Pontiac?
The distributor cap?

Bobsw32

.....There are several good articles on "Quench" here.....You want to shoot for 35 to 45 thousandths....and You are close but on the outside of the normal range. Now is the time if you are going to do it.

captjim

Here is my 9 to 1 355, mild cam, similar to what you are doing. It ios very responsive and fun to drive with a little gear,
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28012

Where did you find those pistons, are they old Badgers?

I would polish the crank, the extra few .000x of clearance should actually be a good thing if you plan on beating on it a little.

cutlassefi

X2 but you might want to have the main saddles and rods checked for size as well. JMO

captjim

I just assume that everybody checks the clearances and roundness with mics before assembly. Seldom have I found 350s needing align honed, but the rods usually need a little touching up.

oldss72

The pistons were actually removed from an engine in the early 70's, and kept at a local Junkyard (that a friend of mine ownes!). When I say new, I mean practically new. The car had 14,XXX on it when it was hit, and totaled. The engine was pulled, and over the years the place sold the heads and crank, but still had the pistons, which I bought for practically nothing. They look brand new, and the bearings were still in the rods, and looked new. I checked them with a bore mic and they are good. I guess I will just have the crank polished, and run it! Thanks

Captjim, milling the heads to 60cc, you must have had alot of material removed, how much did you have to remove from the intake side? How much shorter were the pushrods? I am hoping to get away with just shimming the rockers up a bit, and using stock rods. With the heads sitting a net of .013 lower than factory, do you think I can get away with just the turkey tray and not milling the intake side? I had the intake on before with the shim head gaskets and it fit perfectly, no problems, so I think I can get away with it, whats your opinion?

captjim

I also took .050 off the deck to get the pistons to zero. We trimmed a little off the intake, can't remember how much. I always get new push rods, I just measured what I needed. I used the Comp Magnum roller tip kit.
You will be fine. I have used the tray but most of the time use the Mr Gasket Ultra-seal intake gasket and a thick bead of RTV black on the end rails. I like the brush on sealer for the intake. Always test fit with dry gaskets first.

captjim

OK, so they are not "new" but just low mileage factory units, which is fine. I was just hoping that a new manufacturer was making pistons for us. No such luck.