83olds98

Finally throwing in the towel on solving the computer issues on my 83 98. Figured I'd start a new thread since I've decided to focus my efforts on more of a sure thing.

Beautiful car in great shape and I can't stand to see it sitting idle any more. Want to get it rolling again.

This is my rough plan. If anyone has any cautions or suggestions, they would certainly be greatly appreciated.

What I plan to buy:
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Edlebrock 600CFM carb W/ electric choke.
Summit Blueprint 850006 HEI distributor

I would just buy the regular Performer intake - but the RPM is only $10 more and does not have the EGR port. Otherwise will the RPM intake and 600CFM Edelbrock be too much for this anemic 307? I'm not trying to make power, just get it going half way decent. Assume it should still clear hood with a reasonable air cleaner?

The air pump is not functioning and will also be going away - along with as many vacuum lines as I can possibly eliminate. Ports in exhaust manifolds will be plugged. Cruise can be eliminated also for all I care. A/C works great so I'm going to try to move it to the side while working on the engine and avoid unhooking any lines. Haven't looked that closely yet, so I'm not sure if I can just put a shorter belt in place where the smog pump was, or if I'll need an actual idler pulley?

Do I need to leave the computer plugged in? Or can I just leave the wires hanging there? Unhook the fuses related to the ECM?

Also - The trans is a TH200 and has a 3 wire connector going to it. From what I understand there is a TCC lockup. I've heard some different opinions that it should work fine unhooked, or I may need some type of toggle switch.

Any other issues I may run into I haven't yet considered?

Thanks!

olds 307 and 403

I assume the TH2004R overdrive or is it the TH200C POS? Get the Street Demon 625 cfm instead, a tuning kit and their TV cable bracket. A simple toggle switch and 12 volts is all that is needed for the lock up, just use it on the highway.

83olds98

I'm not sure. I think 2004R. I can get a photo of it. It's a 16 bolt pan, and has a 3 wire connector on the driver side.

I wonder if I should go ahead and throw headers on it as well.. The factory manifolds are currently bolted to dual exhaust. Whatever I would buy would need to bolt up exactly the same - I am not interested in doing any exhaust work.

Are the heads decent on these? Would a cam be worth doing at time? I don't want to get too crazy..probably hard to do with the engine installed anyways.

I'd be afraid even 600CFM square bore is too much for these engines.

olds 307 and 403

That is a 2004R. The 5A heads are OK but not great. You need a mild cam but the stock one does suck, Cutlassefi does some small customs on a tight LSA to help bottom end power. Headers might be OK, my 81 307 Y liked 1 5/8" full length headers. I would think Hooker A body headers would fit, you would just need reducers if the pipes go straight back. The 625 cfm Street Demon is a 3 barrel with small triple booster primaries and an adjustable secondary air door.

83olds98

Yea, I looked into that street demon carb. That may be the way to go.

In the meantime I remembered I had another core quadrajet in my garage. Part # is 17057258. It looks to be almost exactly the same, minus the computer crap. Guessing from a mid-late 70s GM.

I don't mind putting some money into this car if I have to...but maybe for now I'll try this carb, plus have to source an HEI vacuum advance distributor. $159 from Summit. Guys has them for $106 on eBay..Who knows about the origin or quality though. May be the same, but I don't know.

I'll take the carb apart today and order a kit as long as it looks rebuildable. Figure it's a $30 gamble if it doesn't work out. It's pretty filthy so I'll soda blast everything. Would like to be able to run the car by next weekend if all goes smoothly.

Is there any information out there on exactly which wire coming off the trans I need to fool with/simplest way to do that part?

svnt442

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...tributor&pos=1

83olds98

Yea, and Autozone haas this one for $106 https://www.autozone.com/external-en.../463606_0_4618

Guessing most of them all come from the same place in China.

As for the transmission I found this kit:

http://www.monstertransmission.com/2...l#.WxLMM0gvyUk

Still also kind of wondering what I'll run into with the smog pump removed as far as belt routing. Guess I'll find out once its out of there.

83olds98

Also there is an internal kit for the transmission from TCI http://www.tciauto.com/tc/2004r-700r...iring-kithtml/

Same price as the external kit. I may need to take the pan off mine anyways. Seems to have developed a leak. Can't really find any information out there comparing the 2 kits. May have to call the companies this week.

83olds98

Carb doesn't look too bad. Think I got real lucky. This is pretty much the perfect carb for this application. Same linkage and everything. Some sand inside. A little rust inside. Would like to replace those parts, but most kits don't include them. I'll get a kit that includes the float though. Plan to soda blast and clean everything tomorrow.

svnt442

Soak it in Pine Sol over night.

83olds98

LOL Yea - I've boiled carbs in lemon juice before. Didn't really get that great of results. Haven't tried Pine sol. It's soaking in some Berry man right now. Will spray it down with some more tomorrow, then soda blast, hit it with carb cleaner again - Then blow all the ports with compressed air.

There's a little bit of warping on this carb also.. Nothing major though. Nothing compared to the rebuilt Holley Q-jet that was on it when I got it.

olds 307 and 403

That Qjet will be fine and probably close enough for the 307 on jetting. Get a cheap eBay distributor. I bought one of these eBay distributor's. Nice advance mechanism, I did use my Accel coil and Ignitor 3 module but the stock ones did work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Oldsmob...AAAOSwvR5aJlgX

83olds98

LOL - Yea, unfortunately I already bought the Summit one for $159.. I was just afraid the price was too good to be true, and I don't really want to do the job twice. But I imagine they're the same quality, so I may have overspent. Oh well. Not a huge deal.

Got the carb soda blasted. Turned out pretty good. The power valve set screw got a bit goofed up when I removed it. In hindsight, I shouldn't have touched. The top was surprisingly fragile. I didn't realize the setting for it is kinda complicated. From what I've seen online it should be roughly 3.5-4 turns out.

Ordered a carb kit from eBay that comes with a new float and filter. Hopefully be able to run the car this weekend. That's my goal. Still haven't ordered anything for the trans yet though..so probably not a good idea to drive it until I make a decision on it. (internal Vs. external lockup kit)

Also - You can see in the last picture. The vacuum diaphragm in the front is from the older carb I'm rebuilding. It's a bit different than the original style. It also doesn't hold vacuum real well. Can I switch that over from my 83 carb? I plan to use the choke from one of my 83 carbs. They are in better/cleaner condition. Unless there is some reason not to.

olds 307 and 403

You should have left the APT set screw, power valve as you called it, alone where it was. The position of that stop makes a huge difference in part throttle mixture. I have actually found 10 to 11 turns out from seated is about right on those late 70's carbs. I notch the top part of the screw so a small standard screw driver can adjust it in service. Then just bang out the aluminum plug in the top of the air horn and use a tap to add a removable, thread in plug. Both those pull off's are rear choke pull off's, which also control how fast the secondary air door opens. The front one is the most critical but those rear ones should interchange.

83olds98

Yes.. I wish I hadn't touched it..but at the same time - I assume this carb has been rebuilt before - so how do I even know it's adjusted correctly in it's current state?

I will also knock the plug out on top so I can adjust when running if I need to. I found somewhere online that was talking about using a caliper to measure the jets or something. I'll look into that further when my kit arrives and I'm ready to reassemble. The maker of a new adjustment screw claims to set it to 3.5 turns out, if you did not count the turns out. I had a little trouble removing mine (so I didn't count the turns exactly) but I would estimate it was 3-4 turns out.

83olds98

Hoping to catch a little time this weekend to work on it. I'm planning on disconnecting the cruise control mess of vacuum lines and smog pump. I think I'll just leave the smog pump in place for now with everything just unhooked or capped off so I don't have to deal with the belt issue. Just to get it running at least.

I'm also now realizing this will screw up the A/C. Will have to do a little research into that.

Also wondering if I really need the A/C compensator on the driver side of the carb. I think i'll try to run it without and see if it's OK. If not, maybe I can use the electric version from the older carb versus the vacuum style used in '83 that seems much more complicated.

Some pictures at attached of misc electric plugs / wiring / vacuum plugs I plan on removing. Not sure what the round thing is in the third picture with my hand. Haven't been able to find it mentioned in the service manual.

83olds98

Anyone know what these 3 sensors are? Assume one the water jacket ones are temp control. Not sure which one I can/need to retain. Guessing the front one is a knock sensor or something.

Also - How to disable to actuator on the pass side exhaust manifold? Is it open or closed with no vacuum going to it?

Got all the smog pump and lines off today. So much easier to get to stuff already. Anyone happen to know the belt length without the smog pump? Also wondering if I should just disconnect the lines from the charcoal filter. Since one goes back to the tank, I'm guess it should probably have some type of small air filter on it?

kuseetha

I have removed an entire wiring harness from an 87 custom cruiser with 307 and 200R4. It comes in few sections.
1. Firewall (outside part of fusebox connecter) to alternator/battery etc..
2. Firewall (inside part of fusebox connector) to dashboard etc..
3. Fuseboard to rear lights etc..
4. From ECM to the sensors/actuators through firewall

On the cruiser, the ECM was connected at passenger footwell and its wires were sent to the engine bay via a connector through the firewall under the evaporator housing.

ECM harness is standalone and it also connects to No.2 above. (to get fused power to the ECM etc.).


Once it is unplugged, you can follow the rest of it to identify the sensors /actuators of the CCC system. This way, you can get rid of unnecessary wires under the dashboard too.

Front most connector should be the oil pressure sender.

I think you are referring to the heat riser valve (I had this on driver side exhaust manifold!?). I would break the vacuum pod and get hold of the lever which open/close the valve, hold it open and make a small weld

I got myself made 8 plugs at a lathe shop so that the exhaust manifold air tube connections can be plugged.

Charcoal canister has 2 hoses right? One to fuel tank and the other to carby. You can keep it, can't you?

Hammerdrop

The A/C belt on my 89 Custom Cruiser without the AIR pump is a Gates 25-7525. Has worked fine. Just make sure the hose clamp on the water pump is orientated properly and away from the belt.