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You would need to ensure the rotor points to #1 plug wire terminal on the cap when the #1 piston is at TDC on the compression stroke.
Ok thanks, yep! That I did have setup right. It was idling very high on first start so I wanted to eliminate having it off a tooth for timing as a potential cause of that before I moved on to giving the car an initial tune, and learning how to use a timing light. Here's a video of first start for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYHpn2Vhelc
Being a tooth off only affects the distributor housing position. The amount of timing advance (indirectly) and carb adjustments (directly) affect engine rpm. The engine does not care what tooth the distributor position is as long as the corresponding firing order is wired correctly, and nothing interferes with adjustments.
Last edited by oldcutlass; Jun 8, 2024 at 01:40 PM.
Being a tooth off only affects the distributor housing position. The amount of timing advance (indirectly) and carb adjustments (directly) affect engine rpm. The engine does not care what tooth the distributor position is as long as the corresponding firing order is wired correctly, and nothing interferes with adjustments.
1965 330. Timing mark set to zero degrees. Does this look right or am I off a tooth?
If thats a 1965 330, you clearly have a different carburetor. 1965 would have had a 4GC carb. You have a late 70's/early 80's Quadrajet. What size engine is it set up for ?
The rubber hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor is risky, if the hose leaks gasoline will be flowing onto the top of the hot engine. I'd hard tubing it from the fuel pump to the carb without any hose, just tubing and tubing nuts all bent to fit.
The rubber hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor is risky, if the hose leaks gasoline will be flowing onto the top of the hot engine. I'd hard tubing it from the fuel pump to the carb without any hose, just tubing and tubing nuts all bent to fit.
Roger that I'll see what I can rig up. That's a good point that I hadn't thought of while installing the carb. I think I can get a flared input for the carb and make my own flared piece to the right length. Factory line prob be too short I'd guess with the taller intake.
Just came across my flaring kit while cleaning today, actually. Will have to buy some fuel tube. I guess a fortuitous find.
These fuel filters are nice to install prior to the mechanical fuel pump, as well. Can easily be picked up at NAPA and the general suspect automotive parts stores.
These fuel filters are nice to install prior to the mechanical fuel pump, as well. Can easily be picked up at NAPA and the general suspect automotive parts stores.
No doubt about that. Regular fuel hose will work well if it’s in good condition, as in not old and brittle.
Yeah the one that's in there is about 2 years old. A bit too short for the application, though, so that clamp is on it pretty close to the end making it look a bit more worn for its age.
Got the distributor hooked up. Going to go ahead and get the high pressure line and swap it; I'd like to eventually take my daughter for a drive in it so safety is kinda key in that sense. She wasn't even born when my Dad passed and I inherited the car, so some priorities have changed a bit for the vehicle as it were.
Quick related question - the car originally ended up in storage because a brake line cracked and broke while my Dad was driving the car. I replaced all the brake lines, obviously, and got a new cap for the master cylinder as the old one had disappeared. Should I be worried about the brakes going out again somehow that same way -- IE like a rock cutting a line. Brakes going out is pretty rare these days so I don't know what-all has changed in those regards over the years, and whether the original system is still trustworthy now that I've got the new lines installed.
I would not worry a out the brake lines. I drove a 1970 Supreme from 1977 to 1990, then the 1971 convertible from 1990 till now and have no worries about the metal brake lines.