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Consistent issue with the fuel pumps i can use on my set up
Over the past few years I have battled fuel leaks from these style pumps ( only ones that will fit my Aluminum head set up) . They leak where pointed to, where the top half meets the bottom half. Only when cold, only on initial daily start up, save 2-3 times over the years where it leaked more than just as noted. I've literally seen sprays of gas. I thought I had it licked when I changed from the chrome to the black one but low and behold after a year without a drip today it spewed, same seam. On one of the past chrome ones I took it apart and used some sealer, obviously pretty much a losing battle with the fuel right there, Seal All seemed to work for awhile. Ideas? Suggestions? Why only when cold/start up- high idle choked ( note it will slowly stop leaking as it warms up- caveat- most of the time). I have in hand pump number 5 but............
Last edited by boese1978; Mar 18, 2021 at 02:19 PM.
I would prefer to stay with a mechanical pump. None others I’ve seen will fit. As noted the pump must be thus shape to fit machine work done to my head for pump clearance. There are screws that hold the halves together. I’ve tried.
Last edited by boese1978; Mar 18, 2021 at 04:00 PM.
Those look like chinese reproductions of the older Mr. Gasket fuel pumps. I have an original Mr. Gasket and a slightly different casting Holley pump for sale. Both out of production, made in USA low miles and should clear the aluminum heads.
My head is notched, a bit more than yours, done by Mondello. for said fuel pumps. I have only found 2 pumps that will fit. The chrome ones that Mondello USED to sell with the head package ( no longer made) and the black pump from some place online. I've tried fitting a few others, no go with out more head work which I do not want to do.
Is there any contact of the fuel pump with the cylinder head when fastened securely? You can use the old trick of placing a sheet of paper between fuel pump and cylinder head prior to tightening and then see if it slides out easily after fuel pump is tightened securely. There should be about 1/16" clearance (minimum) at all close areas. Looking at AJR's post, it looks like he has a big block on the engine stand. The small block because of the shorter deck height has much more possible contact area between cylinder head and fuel pump.
Is there any contact of the fuel pump with the cylinder head when fastened securely? You can use the old trick of placing a sheet of paper between fuel pump and cylinder head prior to tightening and then see if it slides out easily after fuel pump is tightened securely. There should be about 1/16" clearance (minimum) at all close areas. Looking at AJR's post, it looks like he has a big block on the engine stand. The small block because of the shorter deck height has much more possible contact area between cylinder head and fuel pump.
No contact at all with the pumps I have. Pretty sure AJR's is small block, hence the head overhang.
I'm pretty sure I'm the one that turned you on to one of those pumps from a California based supplier. I've had one on my big block with aluminum heads for ~5 years. I noticed a gas smell a couple of years ago and the joint between the upper and lower halves was wet. I tightened the screws holding it together (without removing the pump) and that fixed the problem. I check them periodically but haven't had to re-torque them. I'm not clear from your statements above whether you actually did this. If you did, is it possible you may have over-torqued one of them and put a small crack in one of the housings? I can only think of three possible reasons it will continue to leak; 1) loss of clamp-load from the screws, 2) the seal between the upper and lower halves is bad, or 3) the housing(s) are cracked.
My head is notched, a bit more than yours, done by Mondello. for said fuel pumps. I have only found 2 pumps that will fit. The chrome ones that Mondello USED to sell with the head package ( no longer made) and the black pump from some place online. I've tried fitting a few others, no go with out more head work which I do not want to do.
That seems like a LOT of material on yours. This is all it takes to get a stock style pump to fit.
I'm pretty sure I'm the one that turned you on to one of those pumps from a California based supplier. I've had one on my big block with aluminum heads for ~5 years. I noticed a gas smell a couple of years ago and the joint between the upper and lower halves was wet. I tightened the screws holding it together (without removing the pump) and that fixed the problem. I check them periodically but haven't had to re-torque them. I'm not clear from your statements above whether you actually did this. If you did, is it possible you may have over-torqued one of them and put a small crack in one of the housings? I can only think of three possible reasons it will continue to leak; 1) loss of clamp-load from the screws, 2) the seal between the upper and lower halves is bad, or 3) the housing(s) are cracked.
Yes,you did point me towards those pumps, So strange how the same issue is happening multiple times to so many diff pumps. I have tried tightening the screws that hold the halves together and I was very careful to not over tighten, i just snugged them a bit on past pumps to no avail. Will try again with the current pump. Thanks for the input!
Maybe longer screws with self locking nuts and washers you may have to invert them. While pump is apart maybe flat surface with sandpaper on glass. Gasgacinch works well if you follow the directions. Even your factory screws should extend past the casting and should have lock washers or Loctite on them. Kirk out.
AJR, that's the difference caused by the shorter deck height of the small block (330,350,403) as compared to your 455 big block. The fuel pump becomes effectively higher in relation to the cylinder head.
AJR, that's the difference caused by the shorter deck height of the small block (330,350,403) as compared to your 455 big block. The fuel pump becomes effectively higher in relation to the cylinder head.
