I was giving a 83 Buick Electra with an olds 307 in it. It was running perfectly after I changed the distributor rotor button and plugs for the three weeks I had the car so far. Over this past weekend I decided to change the oil and that's when this rattling or chattering noise started. I believe the PO said he was using 20W 50 but I decided to go with 10 w 40 instead could that be the problem

 

Is it lifter clatter or timing detonation?

 

+1.

Or do you have a heat shield loose?

- Eric

 

Without knowing more precisely where the noise is generating from (top end, bottom end, etc.) it could be several things... Lifters, fuel knock, even possibly catalytic converter...

 

It sounds more from the top right side of the engine. I forgot to add I did make a mistake and over fill the ps pump

 

Did you put 5 qts in? Changing the viscosity from 50 to 40 would not cause you issue. Does it do it when your in neutral or park and you rev the engine?

 

Squeal in idle and neutral and rattle and chatter under load or accelerating I never experience anything like this. But after all it was a free car couldn't pass that up

 

Can I upload a video on here

 

I'm wondering if the timing chain stretched and through itself out, but it would probably throw a code if its equipped. The squeal in neutral etc sounds like a belt, does the water pump pulley look to be running out?

 

I don't know if it equipped wit it. I haven't looked at the pulley. This problem just puzzling me all I did was change the oil and over filled the ps pump.

 

You have some of the best guys here helping you out so I'm sure you'll figure it out soon.

Eric

 

Overfilling the ps did not cause this problem. The squeal could be a belt. I'm wondering if perhaps one of your accy's has a bad bearing. Remove the belts and put the car in gear, give it some gas, apply the brakes firmly, and see if makes the clattering goes away.

 

I agree with Eric, I've heard water pumps that went out and made quite the noise, try pulling in behind the pulley with a pry bar, don't give'r just tug back a forth a few times. You certainly can upload a video that would help .

Eric

 

I finally figure out the chattering or rattling whichever it was. The distributor was loose not all the wat loose but loose to the point I can turn it by hand and I cannot tightening it anymore. I use the timing light to set it but I believe it will do the same thing some time soon. What to do now?

 

Plus what damage could I have cause driving it out of timing for two days plus could that played a role with possibly tearing up a belt or pulley. This website have help me through a lot of problems with my olds engines

 

Replace the hold down clamp for the distributor if its in the proper spot and not holding. You probably didn't do any damage.

 

Good to hear you found the culprit. I would think no damage was done either. That's why its important to let everyone know what you had done in your first post.
Eric would have figured it out rite away for you.
Thanks for posting the fix!

Eric

 

I back to the drawing again. The same problem occurred again but the distributor is tight and the timing is correct. But I did notice one of the tube on the smog air pump line is snap in two near where the noise is. Could that be the noise. Like I said before it only does it while I driving with my foot on the gas but in park I can rev the engine and get no noise.

 

Did you follow the proper procedure by jumpering the AB pins in the plug under the dash and set timing to 20*BTDC? Next check for vacuum leaks, and your EGR valve, if its somewhat clogged or not working, the engine will ping.

 

Yes I did the ground an out when I set the timing but haven't mess with her yet because I thought it had some to do with me changing from the 20w 50 oil to 10w 40. I can't really pinpoint the noise cause I have to drive and be on the gas.

 

I lost most of the power this little 307 did have if that help out any

 

1 more thing to check is the catalytic converter, if its also losing power it may be clogged.

 

Since this is now my daily driver I can't check the egr and catalyst today. I will have wait until the weekend. How do you check for a faulty egr?

 

Here are some suggestions.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-solenoid.html

 

Either replace or remove and plug the air injection system which includes the belt driven pump.

 

I have hit the EGR with a hammer a few times years ago, not too hard. It will knock the carbon out if it, and the vibration while tapping it should loosen the diaphragm and it should run better if the EGR is the problem.
I hope this helps
Eric

 

I have found the EGR valves pretty reliable. You could try slipping on a hose and clamping it to the broken air line.

 

Sorry to reply so late but I found the problem thank to burning up one of my battery cables. It was a dime sized hole in my exhaust manifold if that's what you call it.(the iron pipe that connect to the head). My positive cable melted to the hole which cause me to find it which probably was causing to start rattle or chatter on and off. My temp fix was I welded a quarter over it until I can replace it unless someone know a permanent fix without replacing it. I thank everyone for the help on here.

 

We would have never figured that out. Glad you got it fixed.