I started noticing a metal chattering sound coming from my engine bay when the car is idling and more frequent when pulling on the throttle. I cant hear it when in the car but I can when the hood is open. It is freaking me out a bit. It seems like the chattering is coming from the lifters. What could be my issue? Possibly cheap fuel?

 

It's most likely lifters, rockers/ perches, or a combination of the 2. I'd pull the valve covers and see where the noise is coming from and go from there!

 

+1.

If you do not look, you will not know.

- Eric

 

Those two have nothing to do with each other. I've heard it a million times, "my valves are clattering when I step on the gas". That's pinging, it has nothing to do with the lifters/valvetrain.
I'd go with what oldcutlass said.

 

I need my mechanic to look at it is this a bad sign

 

Can't say without looking, but probably not very.

- Eric

 

It's engine old age, since the valve train is non-adjustable there are a few wear parts. The lifters will become concave, and the rocker arms and perches wear. Lifters are usually around $80, rocker/pivot kit around $100, intake and valve cover gaskets around $30. Add $50 more for incidentals.

You will probably spend 1 afternoon pulling it apart and cleaning parts, cause I assure you there will be gunk in there. And another afternoon putting it all back together.

This particular job goes well with a friend, 2 six packs of beer, and the cussing handbook.

It's really not that hard!

 

Pinging/detonation under acceleration is bad, so I would check that first. New gas with higher octane and maybe back off timing to see if it stops.

If really just a lifter tapping at idle, see oldcutlass post above. Lots of cussing with factory AC on the passenger side. Then again, my high school car with a SBC survived much abuse with a tapping lifter. Only fix I made involved the volume **** on the radio.

 

Could also be low oil pressure - I'd change the oil, first, and use 'high mileage' oil!
If you ran the same oil all winter, it could be thinned out from fuel leak-down, if you've a Q-Jet, or condensation.
Also, I don't trust the oil from those Quik-Lube places!! Recycled junk!!

 

If they are all rattling I'd be checking your oil pressure.

 

I've had the car for 2 years and put about 8k miles on it since I owned it. Its been through about 5 oil changes using Shell Rotella T. The last oil change was about 1 month ago. Oil pressure is around 40 at idle and 60-65 when driving. The needle does jump up and down sometimes at idle though. About 10psi up and down. This morning the rattling was mild when warming up the car...but when I got back this afternoon from driving around 30 miles it sounded like everything was rattling. It sounds terrible....I recorded a couple HD videos maybe you guys can take a listen....The sound is a bit overpowering but you can hear that something is not right...

Video of warm up from morning: http://youtu.be/rIctbkxZpe4
Video after driving 30miles: http://youtu.be/nmGX94mY66Y

 

At about the 12 and 15 second mark in your video I can hear your noise. It sounds like a bearing noise. Check your alt, water pump, A/C compressor clutch bearing for looseness. You can get a long screwdriver and put it up to the above mentioned items and the other end to your ear and you can pinpoint the noise. Be VERY careful not to put the tip on a moving part while listening, it could be painful. Hope I helped.

 

X2 on that noise - sounds like an accessory, not lifters.

 

make that X3 on my dads olds powerd pontiac we had an alternator bearing fail it sounded just like rod knock. A quick way to find out if it is the accesories is pull the belts off and run it which is what i did.

 

Hey guys it sounds like the bearing in the waterpump has gone bad. There is a lot of place on the pulley. I am going to order a replacement but I am confused on which is the correct pump. I have a 1968 Cutlass Supreme 4dr with A/C, 350 Rocket, Aluminum Rad.

 

I would go with the Brassworks flowcooler unit. You can get them at Summit, Jeg's etc. You may have to measure your old water pump from the back to the flat part that the pulley and fan clutch mount and get one the same length, so that your belts line up. They are a bit pricey but they out flow the factory type to help eliminate hot spots in your engine at idle and stop and go traffic. Hope I was helpful. And Oldsmobile owners don't skimp on their cars.

 

Are you referring to Tuff Stuff Flowkooler? I read the Flowkooler is really a GMB pump. On a budget here the black version of the Flowkooler is around 70$ on summit

 

Buy the high volume severe duty from autozone it's like 30 bucks it's what i run and it includes the gasket.

 

Flowkooler part #1576 from Summit. I didn't realize the price went up so much(135.00). WOW ! The money you save buy buying the one from Autozone you can buy some long life coolant and a couple of bottles of Water Wetter and still have enough leftover to take your girl to a nice dinner.

 

here is the part number from autozone CWP-455HD its 31.99 its for an ac application. It worked on mine all i run is alt. and water pump.

 

I'd love to get the Flowkooler but not at 135. I'm going to give that CWP-455HD a shot. Hopefully it will hold up until I decide to overhaul.

 

i have had mine for 2 years now .

 

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Gave the CWP-455HD to my mechanic to install and he called me to tell me the belts dont align anymore. I thought this application worked for a 350 Rocket with A/C? Did I just waste a ton of cash...

 

If he's charging a ton of cash for a water pump, I'll only charge 1/2 a ton and throw in a timing chain!!
Labor should be under $100 - !!

 

Yeah but no mechanic likes to be given parts to install only to find out it doesnt fit proper. Maybe its his fault for not measuring it before installing or trusting that I gave the right pump but he now is going to take it off again and try to find a correct pump from Napa. This just got more expensive. I thought you guys were positive this is the correct pump. It was 1/2" too long.

 

i would have double checked with autozone. i was under the impression you where doing this yourself. Which at that point you can compare them. I ran this pump with my ac pulleys. It lined up fine for me but again quality control from autozone is hit or miss . Maybe the part was boxed wrong.

 

Its 1/2" too long....the bad pump was on the car when I asked thats why I was trying to get the correct suggestion. Have to buy a $90 pump from Napa now and hope Autozone takes this back since I made the part number request and didn't get the suggested part number...

 

Your "mechanic" should have measured the water pump first, just put them side by side on a work bench and compare them visually. Most of us assumed you were going to do the work yourself and you would compare them. Remember if you want something done right you HAVE to do it yourself. If you look you can see I suggested that you measure your old water pump on my March 9th post. This is a lesson learned. We all have done something in our lives that ended up being a learning experience. That's why it's called experience. I hope everything works out for you and you are tearing up the roads in no time.

 

Yes, lesson learned. But at the end of the day this thread was made to ask for a correct style pump and I took the advice. I dont have a garage or the time to take apart my daily driver so I take it to a trustworthy mechanic who has a collection of his own muscle cars. He knows what he is doing and gives me fair prices if I supply the parts. Which is what I did and it back fired. Yeah, maybe he should have measured it but he gave me the benefit of the doubt in buying the right pump. Experience is one thing...but regardless if I had installed it myself or had a mechanic do it...the pump is not the correct specs for a 68 Cutlass with 350 Rocket and A/C.......

 

Let this be a lesson for anyone who is tempted to use this pump in the future.

 

i used it with noissue but i compared it at the counter when i bought it . this is the problem with buying parts at the local autozone napa etc. for cars this old . Their interchange book or data base might show one thing but yours could be another.

 

This pump was listed for an Acura

 

Thats is funny i didnt see than when i looked it up lol. Thats what you get though some where between 40 plus years of parts numbers and many many makes and models you end up with multiple part numbers thats are the same for one and many others but diffrent parts. Thats why it takes a good reputable parts counterman to know his stuff. even napa isnt that good. It's always those old autoparts stores thats look like they have nothing but they havent changed with the times and they still have all the master refrence guides for part numbers they may have to order the parts but you know it's gonna be right

 

Spending more money than you intended isn't that funny. I'll be more careful on taking suggestions next time around.

 

Its the part number thats on my water pump. No matter what you do sometimes you spend more than what you want. in the last year i have put 2 diffrent tq. converters have tried 4 diffrent carbs, It aint cheap i know how you feel. But seriuously that part number is the water pump i run on my olds. I jst find it funny that it came up for an acura which proves what i said about 40 years of parts numbers and numbers getting re used and still used on older parts. It makes for some confusion and mistakes.

 

I also have a 68 Olds with a 350 Rocket w/ AC. It has been a long time since I have changed a water pump on that car. I could not give you a good part #, as much as I would like to. I hope I can at least give someone some good advice. I'm glad you have a mechanic that is fair to you. There are really only 2 water pumps for Oldsmobiles. The next time a thread comes up about water pumps you'll be the expert. Please share the part # when you can and thanks for enlightening us.