Well, I've had the '54 out and about, trying to get a feel for how it's doing and what else needs to be done. Two things of note - after the car's fully warmed up, when you pull up to a stopsign, the idle drops so low it almost stalls. If you put it in neutral, the idle goes back to normal. I did a vacuum test and checked my lines and they seemed OK. Even though I just rebuilt the carb, I'm thinking it may be the culprit (?)

Second, after the car's warmed up, if I shut it off and try to re-start it, all I get is a click but no starter action. It will start again normally after I try around 15-20 times or so.

Any ideas what could be causing these two problems?

 

I can't say for sure, but on newer carburetors there is a device that keeps the idle at the set rpm while the car is running and then allows the throttle plate to close fully when the car is turned off to prevent "dieseling". You might check for that, I will say that I do agree with you that it is probably the carburetor, you may have an adjustment error. Your re-start problem sounds like a faulty starter solenoid. Many auto parts stores can check a starter for you but you will have to remove it of course. Do you have any non-stock items installed (headers)? I have heard of a problem called "heat soak" related to some engines with headers installed that have the same trouble you described.

 

No, there's nothing non-standard on the engine. I ordered the rebuild kit from Fusick, but they redesigned the plunger and I couldn't get it to pump the gas once I had it on the car, so I had to take it off, take it back apart and put the old plunger back in there

I kinda think it's the carb, too, so I'll either have someone rebuild it for me or buy another one already rebuilt.

As you probably already know, I've had a smoke problem with this car for awhile. I did notice after the carb rebuild it doesn't smoke near as much as it used to, so I wonder if my smoking problem has more to do with the carb than anything else.

I'll tell you this much - after my '57 Chevy and now the '54 Olds, I've learned more about cars in the last five years than I have in the last 30!

Knowledge is a good thing, I guess.

 

Try this - block every vacuum line coming off the carb and try the same exact test to see if the car stalls.

**This is what YOU ( 1954olds ) wrote in another post about your brakes**
I did a little more detective work on Monday and found that the previous owner had cut the wire supplying 12v to the vacuum line solenoid. Repaired the connection, and that seemed to cure my idle drop. Yay!

#1.. There should be no vacuum pump getting 12 volts. The vacuum comes off a metal line off the back of the carb. If you have some type of external pump, someone didnt find the cause of the vacuum leak and tried to make this a temporary fix.

 

Which carb? If it's a Rochester 4GC 4-barrel, they're sensitive to which gasket is between the throttle body and float bowl.

My best advice to anyone with an old car is to get the factory shop manual. That way you can see how it's supposed to be, and correct 50 years worth of previous owners and mechanics who have all left their stamp on it. Plus you have all the factory rebuild procedures and adjustments right in front of you, and you don't waste time and temper dicking around with it.

 

x2 on the gasket.

they're also sensitive to the gasket used between the throttle body and the intake.

how are the throttle shafts in their bores? can you move the throttle shafts fore and aft or up and down in their bores? open the throttle all the way when you check this. side to side is not what i'm looking for.

many people believe that bushing the throttle shaft bores aren't necessary on a 4gc-that couldn't be further from the truth, they wear just like the quadrajet, just not as fast.

is the tag with the carb. number still around? if so, what's the carb number?

a lot of 4gc's use different primary and secondary floats, and they're not interchangeable.


bill

 

It's not a pump, but some king of solenoid. It is in-line just ahead of the vacuum reserve canister and opens or shuts the vacuum line to the canister.

I was assuming it was meant to be there. Was the vacuum line intended to be hooked up directly to the canister instead?

 

It's a Carter WGD 2bbl carb. I couldn't find the model tag on it, so I'm not sure what that number is.

 

OK- I got out the 54 shop book and finally figured out what the hell you're talking about.

This solenoid is part of the power brake vacuum circuit and is wired in thru the stoplight switch. Solenoid is normally closed, but will lift off its seat if engine vacuum is greater than reserve tank vacuum. This is to equalize vacuum and create a reserve vacuum supply in case engine stalls.

It will open electrically upon brake application and allow vacuum stored in the reserve tank to act on the power brake vacuum cylinder. This is to eliminate "catchy" or hard pedal.

So yes, it is supposed to be there, and if it isn't working you could experience a vacuum leak (or more likely a vacuum lock since no vacuum can get to the reserve tank) which would contribute to a too-low idle.

I learn something new about an Oldsmobile almost every day.

 

Wow. Thanks for the detailed info. Glad to know it's supposed to be there. I took off the solenoid a few months ago, took it completely apart, cleaned it and checked the coil and seals. Everything looked OK, and I bench tested it before I put it back on. I also checked the condition of the vacuum lines leading up to and past the solenoid, and made sure I had +12v at the connection.

 

And look what showed up on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1954-OLDS-POWER-BRAKE-SOLENOID-VALVE-ASSEMBLY-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34204QQihZ014QQitem Z330269517930QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

LOL! Amazing what can turn up on e-Bay, isn't it?