Cam Advice wanted for mild/wild 403
September 21st, 2021, 11:33 AM
#1
72 Cutlass Ponca City OK
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Ponca City, OK
Posts: 155
Cam Advice wanted for mild/wild 403
OK folks, here is the situation. I have a 1972 Cutlass with a 403, performer RPM intake, long tube headers, 2.5in exhaust with turbo mufflers, TH2004R with CK performance valvebody and servo, stock converter, 3.73 gears, C heads not cut for lift, small block ford valve springs with retainers, not rotators, comp cams steel roller tip adjustable rockers, 0.030 cast deep dish pistons, HEI, Holley 650 spreadbore carb, and federal mogul 214/224 474/496 cam. I am going to pull the drivetrain to paint the car. While it is out I was thinking of recamming, and wanted to know what would work better than what I have. Bottom end is stock plus HV oil pump, so I have about a 5200rpm limit. I am seriously thinking about a Holley Sniper EFI before it goes back in. I want to be able to idle less than 1100rpm, have power brakes and AC that work. Any Ideas? Mark cutlassefi if you want to respond with email or PM with pricing, etc. that would be great. Or if someone wants to share?
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
September 21st, 2021, 12:29 PM
#2
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,145
Wait for the new 68cc Edelbrock heads if you are keeping those pistons. I say a roller cam is a nice upgrade and no worries of cam failure. The N crank and girdle are good if you are going to push hard. The converter is pretty much a given with the upgraded compression and cam. Do a compression, put an oil gauge on and see where the motor is currently at, health wise.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; September 21st, 2021 at 12:32 PM.
September 21st, 2021, 04:25 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 14,746
September 21st, 2021, 06:10 PM
#7
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: West Hartford, CT
Posts: 1,501
If you go the extra steps that you mentioned, you would be in the ballpark of a build similar to mine except for the bedrock DX block vs lightweight 403 block.
If you’re going to do crank work & change pistons, might want to think about cutlassefi’s stroker kit. Replace the heads w/ aluminum if yours need overhaul. WTH, it’s only money!
I think a cam similar to the one I run would be a good ballpark, bigger if you stroked it with alum heads. My engine is under cammed (reused it from previous 350) but it’s great for 99% of the driving I do, torque is king for the street. I think a lot of guys give up a lot with their low lift cams but maybe it’s a budget thing with accompanying valve train expense.
How bad is it driving 80 mph @ 2600 rpm on the highway, getting 17-18 mpg (can get 20 at lower speeds), pull into the track and run a deep 12?
…..
If you’re going to do crank work & change pistons, might want to think about cutlassefi’s stroker kit. Replace the heads w/ aluminum if yours need overhaul. WTH, it’s only money!
I think a cam similar to the one I run would be a good ballpark, bigger if you stroked it with alum heads. My engine is under cammed (reused it from previous 350) but it’s great for 99% of the driving I do, torque is king for the street. I think a lot of guys give up a lot with their low lift cams but maybe it’s a budget thing with accompanying valve train expense.
How bad is it driving 80 mph @ 2600 rpm on the highway, getting 17-18 mpg (can get 20 at lower speeds), pull into the track and run a deep 12?
…..
September 21st, 2021, 06:12 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central Fl
Posts: 7,976
OK folks, here is the situation. I have a 1972 Cutlass with a 403, performer RPM intake, long tube headers, 2.5in exhaust with turbo mufflers, TH2004R with CK performance valvebody and servo, stock converter, 3.73 gears, C heads not cut for lift, small block ford valve springs with retainers, not rotators, comp cams steel roller tip adjustable rockers, 0.030 cast deep dish pistons, HEI, Holley 650 spreadbore carb, too small and federal mogul 214/224 474/496 cam. I am going to pull the drivetrain to paint the car. While it is out I was thinking of recamming, and wanted to know what would work better than what I have. Bottom end is stock plus HV oil pump, so I have about a 5200rpm limit. I am seriously thinking about a Holley Sniper EFI Use the Terminator X instead before it goes back in. I want to be able to idle less than 1100rpm, have power brakes and AC that work. Any Ideas? Mark cutlassefi if you want to respond with email or PM with pricing, etc. that would be great. Or if someone wants to share?
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
September 21st, 2021, 07:43 PM
#9
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,145
If you go the extra steps that you mentioned, you would be in the ballpark of a build similar to mine except for the bedrock DX block vs lightweight 403 block.
If you’re going to do crank work & change pistons, might want to think about cutlassefi’s stroker kit. Replace the heads w/ aluminum if yours need overhaul. WTH, it’s only money!
I think a cam similar to the one I run would be a good ballpark, bigger if you stroked it with alum heads. My engine is under cammed (reused it from previous 350) but it’s great for 99% of the driving I do, torque is king for the street. I think a lot of guys give up a lot with their low lift cams but maybe it’s a budget thing with accompanying valve train expense.
How bad is it driving 80 mph @ 2600 rpm on the highway, getting 17-18 mpg (can get 20 at lower speeds), pull into the track and run a deep 12?
…..
If you’re going to do crank work & change pistons, might want to think about cutlassefi’s stroker kit. Replace the heads w/ aluminum if yours need overhaul. WTH, it’s only money!
I think a cam similar to the one I run would be a good ballpark, bigger if you stroked it with alum heads. My engine is under cammed (reused it from previous 350) but it’s great for 99% of the driving I do, torque is king for the street. I think a lot of guys give up a lot with their low lift cams but maybe it’s a budget thing with accompanying valve train expense.
How bad is it driving 80 mph @ 2600 rpm on the highway, getting 17-18 mpg (can get 20 at lower speeds), pull into the track and run a deep 12?
…..
September 21st, 2021, 09:28 PM
#10
72 Cutlass Ponca City OK
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Ponca City, OK
Posts: 155
I had to go thru a couple different sets of hold down nuts before I found some that weren't the Comp ones, and fit under the valve covers. I also had to go thru some different pushrods before I found some that put my contact point right in the middle of the valve tip, and work with guideplates.
September 22nd, 2021, 03:40 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: West Hartford, CT
Posts: 1,501
September 22nd, 2021, 05:07 AM
#12
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,145
Interesting, glad to hear that is possible with that fairly mild cam. My Comp hydraulic roller is 218/218 on a 112 .525 with 1.6, .541 with 1.65, .564 with 1.72, I have all 3 ratios for rockers. The 1.65 are the new Harland Sharp for the new Edelbrock heads.
September 22nd, 2021, 05:12 AM
#13
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,145
Switched to the full site, now I see it. I can hardly wait to see the dyno sheets on the new Edelbrock heads. My short block, besides my cam being milder is identical to Mark's except I have a 330 crank in place of the N crank.
September 22nd, 2021, 05:45 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 14,746
Fel Pro VS50259R, Rubber; 11/64" thick
November 5th, 2022, 12:24 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 13
OK folks, here is the situation. I have a 1972 Cutlass with a 403, performer RPM intake, long tube headers, 2.5in exhaust with turbo mufflers, TH2004R with CK performance valvebody and servo, stock converter, 3.73 gears, C heads not cut for lift, small block ford valve springs with retainers, not rotators, comp cams steel roller tip adjustable rockers, 0.030 cast deep dish pistons, HEI, Holley 650 spreadbore carb, and federal mogul 214/224 474/496 cam. I am going to pull the drivetrain to paint the car. While it is out I was thinking of recamming, and wanted to know what would work better than what I have. Bottom end is stock plus HV oil pump, so I have about a 5200rpm limit. I am seriously thinking about a Holley Sniper EFI before it goes back in. I want to be able to idle less than 1100rpm, have power brakes and AC that work. Any Ideas? Mark cutlassefi if you want to respond with email or PM with pricing, etc. that would be great. Or if someone wants to share?
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
Now, lets say while I have the top off the motor, what if I decide to ditch the heavy cast 7.9:1 slugs and go with the 0.039 over flat-top KBs, leaving the rest the same, then what cam would perk things up? As far as I know If I go over 0.500 lift I am going to have to do machine work on the heads.
Then lets say I put a girdle on it, use a balanced 350N crank, and Edelbrock or reworked chinesium heads, what do you recommend for a hydraulic roller, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, head bolts, everything needed to make this work? How much? I would put in a 2400-2800 stall converter if needed.
Ryan in Ponca City, OK. I have a similar question in the BB forum.
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