Cam advice

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old March 17th, 2016, 11:03 AM
  #41  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
Originally Posted by Mike Sundy
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3638025&cc=1217449&jnid=434&jpid=0

This is the first one I found.
There is also this one.

http://rebuiltautoengines.com/oldsmobile-V8_5.7_350-old_350lb_4-engine.html
Mike Sundy is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 11:07 AM
  #42  
Registered User
 
1BOSS83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 515
Here is my concern with that. I'd bet that motor has 24cc dish cast pistons, tiny cam and smog head. Maybe an 8:1 engine. 1,700 and you have to supply (or so it looks) valve covers, oil pan, intake, carb, distributor etc etc. so the 1,700 figure is sort of a misnomer. Additionally, I'd want to see some sort of build sheet to see exactly what it is- You don't want to spend 3k on a 170 hp engine.

I would try and get new heads. This site is full of guys who build heads and I was on another forum the other day and a fella was going on about how he will sell his #5 heads (cores) for something like $150.00 bucks. You have the desirable pistons and at this point new cam/lifters aren't going to be extremely expensive.
1BOSS83 is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 11:14 AM
  #43  
Registered User
 
1BOSS83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 515
Speak of the devil..

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...50-250-mi.html
1BOSS83 is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 11:48 AM
  #44  
Out of Line, Everytime😉
 
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,140
I would pull the motor and check the bearings and crank, they might be near new condition. $1200 is Procomp territory and they won't flow as well.
olds 307 and 403 is online now  
Old March 17th, 2016, 11:52 AM
  #45  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
When someone says "core" does that mean stripped or just in need of some machining? If I bought some stripped ones, I'd be in the same situation I am in now.
Mike Sundy is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 12:13 PM
  #46  
Registered User
 
pherbicide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 124
Originally Posted by Mike Sundy
When someone says "core" does that mean stripped or just in need of some machining? If I bought some stripped ones, I'd be in the same situation I am in now.
My understanding of core means no valves, springs rockers and the like.
pherbicide is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 03:13 PM
  #47  
Registered User
 
1BOSS83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 515
Originally Posted by Mike Sundy
When someone says "core" does that mean stripped or just in need of some machining? If I bought some stripped ones, I'd be in the same situation I am in now.
Core isn't necessarily a death sentence on the piece. My "core" 350 was a full running and driving long block with Proform HEI, performer RPM etc...If you have to redo heads it's better to look into a less grim option (you mentioned before you have damaged seats). if you find good solid cores and a machine shop is going to charge you 1,200 dollars to fit them with internals you should back away (don't turn your back on them) very slowly.

Last edited by 1BOSS83; March 17th, 2016 at 03:15 PM. Reason: More info
1BOSS83 is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 03:58 PM
  #48  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
I went to check out the cam and found this.


It looks like the eccentric has been welded on and I can't seem to get the nut off that is holding it all together. Any tips or is this thing FUBAR? Is getting heads worth it or should I just look for a whole new engine? There is a chance that everything inside there is still good but thats a hell of a gamble.
Mike Sundy is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 04:17 PM
  #49  
Out of Line, Everytime😉
 
olds 307 and 403's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,140
Pull the engine to be safe, could be nice, could be a disaster inside. Why in the hell would someone weld that oil slinger on?
olds 307 and 403 is online now  
Old March 17th, 2016, 04:39 PM
  #50  
Registered User
 
TripDeuces's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Rogues Island, USA
Posts: 3,613
It's not a nut but instead a bolt. If torqued correctly it's about 65 lb/ft so it will be a little tough to budge.
Once the bolt is out if need be you can chisel that eccentric off which will break the weld easily. Of course you might be looking at a new timing chain set and cam also. It's an aftermarket set and is loose anyway. You can see the slack in the chain.
TripDeuces is offline  
Old March 17th, 2016, 04:55 PM
  #51  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
I'm guessing it's over torqued because I used the same impact to take the crank bolt off. It pulled the crank bolt like it was in butter and didn't budge this one.
Mike Sundy is offline  
Old March 18th, 2016, 06:06 AM
  #52  
Registered User
 
1BOSS83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 515
Mike, what is your budget for this build?
1BOSS83 is offline  
Old March 18th, 2016, 06:38 AM
  #53  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
Originally Posted by 1BOSS83
Mike, what is your budget for this build?
Around $2k knowing that it will go well beyond that.
Mike Sundy is offline  
Old March 18th, 2016, 07:32 AM
  #54  
Registered User
 
1BOSS83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 515
I would take the motor completely apart. Take the pistons , crank, block etc to your machinist and find out what you have. Exactly. If the foundation pieces are in good shape we can put together a build that will meet your budget and performance expectations. Just as an example, if those pistons are in good shape that's $400 back in the coffers right there. You MAW find out all the truths at once so we can best advise those critical questions and get some forward momentum. I paid my machinist $200.00 to take my motor completely apart and tell me everything I had and its condition (and it was running and driving) you don't know until you know. I'd honestly lose sleep if you bought 1,200 dollar heads only to find out the bearings are spun and the crank is not usable etc.
1BOSS83 is offline  
Old March 18th, 2016, 05:11 PM
  #55  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Mike Sundy's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 110
Originally Posted by 1BOSS83
I would take the motor completely apart. Take the pistons , crank, block etc to your machinist and find out what you have. Exactly. If the foundation pieces are in good shape we can put together a build that will meet your budget and performance expectations. Just as an example, if those pistons are in good shape that's $400 back in the coffers right there. You MAW find out all the truths at once so we can best advise those critical questions and get some forward momentum. I paid my machinist $200.00 to take my motor completely apart and tell me everything I had and its condition (and it was running and driving) you don't know until you know. I'd honestly lose sleep if you bought 1,200 dollar heads only to find out the bearings are spun and the crank is not usable etc.
Does anyone live in Ohio? This seems like a great deal if true. http://dayton.craigslist.org/pts/5484776936.html
Mike Sundy is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fv64olds98
Big Blocks
8
January 31st, 2013 02:56 PM
73supreme
Big Blocks
9
July 25th, 2012 05:15 AM
Bugg
Big Blocks
1
March 10th, 2012 02:14 PM
sphinx_57
Cutlass
7
January 23rd, 2010 06:40 PM
ijasond
Big Blocks
40
May 13th, 2008 08:27 AM



Quick Reply: Cam advice



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:28 PM.