So I just set my timing to 12 degrees BTDC, dwell meter was bouncing between 31 and 32 degrees, vacuum gauge checked out fine. Already noticed a nice smooth idle but now when I floor it it'll just bog and bog and bog until I let of a little bit then it'll kick in. I'm getting frustrated and need some help. Any suggestions?

 

What carb is on it?

 

The stock crappy 2bbl

 

Could be many things. Is it a Q-Jet carb? Dirt in carb, float sunk, Bad pump shot circuit, air valve springs weak and needs to be adjusted etc....We need more info if you want us to dial in on your problem.
Year... 71 we'll assume? Make...Olds, hopefully... model? engine size?...stock or modified, auto or stick??? We'll assume its a points distributor, how are the contacts, how old is the condenser etc....Whats the condition of the plugs and the plug wires? Pull a couple of spark plugs and "read" them. Tell us what they look like. Etc.....Black, white or brown.

 

2bbl Rochester, 71 cutlass automatic. Ill take out the plugs and check the gaps on them. Should they be. 035 or. 040?

 

Ok. .035" on the gap. But more improtantly read the plugs what do they look like? So Ill assume this is a stock 350/350, 2bbl, Cutlass, with points. Provided the ignition systems up to par the next thing to look at is the fuel system. Has the fuel filter been changed? If not do it. Then road test. Can you measure the fuel pump pressure? Is the carb tight on the intake? Grab it and twist. Does it move on the intake or is the bowl lose from the horn and plate? Those two barrels are noted to losen up. From here if you find its all ok then its most likely time for a carb rebuild.

 

Ill check the gap, filter and fit later today. Hopefully an Eddy manifold and 600 will solve all this BS lol

 

ok, got my gapper and fuel filter. gunna start there and see what happens... found an accel distributor (hei) at the auto parts store for 109.99 is it worth it to spend more money and go MSD or will the accel do just fine?

 

Plugs checked out fine at .035, I noticed that its not even at WOT its as soon as I hit 70 MPH. Somebody also mentioned to me that the timing is too much at 12 and needs to be within 8-10. Any suggestions?

 

Your HEI is going to need a full 12v to run correctly.

 

Both HEI (high energy ign) and MSD (multiple spark discharge) are great systems, and a good upgrade from points. But neither is a drop-n-go kind of deal. There is nothing wrong with a good operating points distributor. They just require regular maintenance. I would advise finding the problem first before upgrading anything. Then decide what path you want to take to upgrade. IMO when you change the intake and install a 4bbl then put in a properly curved HEI. Mallory (I believe, and maybe others by now) makes a distributor in which the centrifugal and vac advance events are adjusted with pots verses mechanical means. Cats *** IMO. You could put the Petronix point delete kit in the existing distributor. When the time comes and if you have the coin look into the Edelbrock complete matched package, heads, intake carb along with the ignition upgrade. Then that will lead to beefing the bottom end which leads to driveline upgrades etc....you see where this is going quick!

 

When I get home I'm gunna try to finally swap out the fuel filter and see what happens...didn't have a big wrench yesterday to get the fitting off

 

Ok, so yesterday I swapped out the FF and now it wont bog past 70 anymore as I keep gaining speed but still bogging when I floor it... could it be that my timing is at 12 instead of 10? I feel like I'm getting closer..

 

No most likely not timing. Id say time to go through the carb and clean it out get an updated accelerator pump cup etc...These carbs are a simple rebuild. Or send it out to one of the reputable rebuild shops. Carb Shop, JET theres others too. Thats a great carb when in top shape.

 

The thing is the Carb was rebuilt about 7k ago and I wasn't having the issue when the dwell and timing were way off before I put it back to spec. I put a butt load of Carb cleaner through the barrels which I think helped it a little bit.

 

Vacuum advance possible to cause the bogging while trying to accelerate? Mine was corroded and non working and it was sluggish as crap on highway when trying to pickup speed. Just a thought

 

the vacuum line going to the carb? ill take a look at it and revise all the vacuum lines in that surrounding area as well..

 

i have noticed that on take off theres a small dead spot before it starts moving. it doesnt bog or anything but there is a dead spot..

 

As I always suggest go at one system at a time recording where it was originally and what changes you've made along the way. Once you’re sure the ignition system is up to snuff then go at the fuel system. See if the vac advance can holds vacuum.
Usually tip-in bog is related to a lean condition either the accelerator pump shot circuit or a vacuum leak (see vac can above). 7 years is a long time for a pump cup to sit in gas, especially if the rubber isn’t the updated material to withstand todays excuse for gas. It’s cheap enough to replace. Pull the air horn and there it is. It could need adjusting too but I’d start with a new pump cup. You can test it before pulling the carb. Look down the carb with the engine off. Actuate the accelerator slowly. You should see it squirt gas immediately as it starts to move not 1/2 way down its travel. While the horns off look for dirt in the bowl floor and check the float drop & level. It should be weighed to make sure it’s not absorbing fuel thus not floating. Another cheap item to replace while the horns off. Inspect the needle & seat too for gum.

 

i meant seven thousand miles ago, but ill still pull it off and make sure its squirting as it should and I'll check the float too. Now that we're talking about vacuum lines, i'll go check those now..

 

ok, so on the intake manifold by the t-stat there is a valve that has 3 vacuum hoses coming off it it routed to the carb. The vacuum line for the advance was fine (orange hose) but the one below it was messed up at the entry point allowing for vacuum leak. Went and bought a new hose and now i have a higher idle than usual. I looked at my idle screw to the right of the carb and realized that the tip of the screw on the bottom isnt even hitting the bottom plate unless i tighten it (to raise idle which i dont wanna do). Its only when i push down on it manually that I'll hear the idle go down but when i let it go it gradually finds its way up again raising my idle. Is this normal?

 

if all goes well this weekend i should have enough money to buy a performer manifold from a member here on the site and buy a used 600 cfm eddy carb barely used on Craigslist. I think this will solve my issue plus give me more power until i get my exhaust installed...

What will i need when installing the manifold besides an intake gasket? will the stock bolts work fine? any adapters i need to run to fit the factory equipment on top of it?