Engine bogging down after 1-2 shift
#1
Engine bogging down after 1-2 shift
Intermitently but more often then not the engine will completely bog down after the 1 - 2 shift. This only happens when I am at WOT from a dead stop. If I back off the throttle for a split second then get back onto it again it will power through it.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Timing or carb adjustment.
Any ideas what could be causing this? Timing or carb adjustment.
#2
Details?
Type of carb., compression, type of ignition, type of cam, type of transmission, converter stall speed?
First guess: You've got a QuadraJet and the secondary air valve spring is adjusted too loose, allowing the air valve to flop open under acceleration, and flooding the engine.
- Eric
Type of carb., compression, type of ignition, type of cam, type of transmission, converter stall speed?
First guess: You've got a QuadraJet and the secondary air valve spring is adjusted too loose, allowing the air valve to flop open under acceleration, and flooding the engine.
- Eric
#3
Other than a newer quadrajet, Edelbrock performer intake and the recently installed dual exhaust its 100% stock. Still running points ignition, factory cam, TH400 tranny, Stall Speed (NO IDEA).
Do you have a pic of the spring in question?
Do you have a pic of the spring in question?
#5
yeah it is a switch pitch. I performed the adjustment as per the manual at its still the same.
This article is interesting.
http://www.montess.org/airvalve.html
This article is interesting.
http://www.montess.org/airvalve.html
#8
I don't trust "professionals."
The car owner who spends a week slowly disassembling and cleaning his carb and putting it back together, stopping to re-read the parts of the manual he doesn't understand until he figures it out, will probably do a better job than the guy who can assemble a carb with his eyes closed, doing a dozen or more in a day.
Call me overcautious.
- Eric
The car owner who spends a week slowly disassembling and cleaning his carb and putting it back together, stopping to re-read the parts of the manual he doesn't understand until he figures it out, will probably do a better job than the guy who can assemble a carb with his eyes closed, doing a dozen or more in a day.
Call me overcautious.
- Eric
#10
If it's running out, I'd check the fuel pump.
Since it's not heavily modified, I wouldn't worry about the size of the fuel lines or the spec. capacity of the pump.
He said after the 1-2 shift, though, so I was thinking more carburation, but you may be right...
- Eric
Since it's not heavily modified, I wouldn't worry about the size of the fuel lines or the spec. capacity of the pump.
He said after the 1-2 shift, though, so I was thinking more carburation, but you may be right...
- Eric
#12
The issue only happens after the 1-2 shift. NEVER have a problem at high RPM this thing just wants to keep pulling.
Pretty sure its a carb problem since if I back off on the accell slightly and then back on again the bogging will go away.
Pretty sure its a carb problem since if I back off on the accell slightly and then back on again the bogging will go away.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Posts: 714
My 64 88 has the same issue. I do need my carb rebuilt, but I have had an old time olds mechanics (@ 30 +years exp.) tell me all adjustments are maxed out on my carb including my secondary valve spring. He says it was a common adjustment when he would do a tune-up back in the day.
My car does want to just rip and keep pulling after the second shift!! Can't wait until next year...a rebuilt carb next spring
My car does want to just rip and keep pulling after the second shift!! Can't wait until next year...a rebuilt carb next spring
#14
Since the acceleration is quickest in first gear, you are move likely to run out of fuel at the top of first gear, or just after the 1-2 shift, than at the top of 2nd gear.
One more oddball possibility:
Check your coil wire (between coil and center of distributor) and also the plus and minus wires for the coil. If you have a bad connection, and if your 1-2 shift is firm, the jolt might temporarily dislodge the wire and break the connection. I've had this exact situation before. My coil wire was actually sitting almost an inch above the distributor, with the spark normally jumping the distance. But the sudden jolt would separate the wire just enough to cut out the engine, then the wire would return and the spark would continue again. Bizarre.
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