When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I actually ended up with slightly over 350 hp when it was all said and done and spent about $3500 to have it done. A lot of threads on this website helped me a lot and I thank you all. The car is taking me a lot longer than I originally planned but I'm still working with it and all that needs to been done at this point is the cosmetics!
I actually ended up with slightly over 350 hp when it was all said and done and spent about $3500 to have it done. A lot of threads on this website helped me a lot and I thank you all. The car is taking me a lot longer than I originally planned but I'm still working with it and all that needs to been done at this point is the cosmetics!
What all do you have done to it I'm currently building mines also
Well, I guess this thread really did come back to life since the OP is now updating. I'd like to know what combo he ended up with as well. I hope it included a gearing change to take advantage of the new power levels. The delay is just the sort of thing that can happen to us when trying to address the issues with older cars. Waiting with bated breath!
I'm pretty sure there are guys with 500HP 350s out there. Maybe on a $30K budget though
John
i have a 1972 block with num 5 heads that have been shaved down with valve work and rollers installed along with a crane cam and crank shaft the motor has been puched out 30 over i have edelbrock intake with headman long tube headers and m.s.d ignition all for around 6,000 maybe a lil over and i have a dyno print out. Hope this helps
I ended up going with the Edelbrock RPM 7111, Holley 770 Street Avenger, Lunati Voodoo Cam, 2500 torque converter, Hooker full length headers, dual exhaust, spin tech 6000 mufflers, and lastly a 10 bolt posi rear end with 3.42 gears. Will be searching for an OD transmission in the near future.
Talking the original poster of the thread. Copper's car runs extremely well without a doubt but it is marginal street wise especially with 3.90 gears and a 3000 stall for some of us but those are needed to make 355 ci fast. That is why I want my 424ci SBO done, enough torque to use the 2.78 gears and use a 2500 stall converter and still be quick at the track.
Mah bad, no that was pointed toward Copper. Anyway...2.73 gear...that torque converter is gonna be working every bit of that 2500RPM. Maybe consider a 3.23? Still 2800 going 70 with a 27" tire (275/55/15) instead of 2400 with the 2.73.
If I go that far, then I may as well go 3.42 and 4L80E or 3.90 and T-56 which I might down the road, both are big $$$ to do right. I can go TH400 used, Transgo shift kit, decent 2500 stall for around $500-600 with a governor and speedo set up right for this car. Just a yoke and cut driveshaft or find a TH400 drive shaft for this 70.
Current engine is machined. Only 2 of my previous where re ring deals. The current engine in the car started out as a swap meet short block. Block was junk and crank was junk but I got pistons out of the deal. Had a block bored and honed and cam bearings installed and I had the crank polished and balanced the rotating assembly. That was it. The heads where done by rocket racing back in 2009 and they have seen service on 2 engines. This particular engine has 100 1/4 mile passes and about 5k hard miles on the street. Still attempting for an 11 sec. time slip in the spring. total investment engine/trans and diff is well under 7k.
The engine going together that's on the stand started life as a freebie 355 with probe 3cc forged pistons zero decked, I traded some body work for some porting services and parts, Had the bottom end re machined did new wear items like bearings, Bought a friend some expensive been for a nice used solid lifter cam, bought a used holley intake . So far only a 2200 invested on that engine. All I need is pushrods and rocker arms, guide plates and studs.
Olds307and403 You would be amazed. The 3.90's and 3500 stall which I recently added are not bad on the street or highway. The small block isn't even working at cruising rpms about 4000 @ 70 mph range. What makes it suck is the loud *** exhaust lol.
Don't let me being a cheap *** fool you I don't mind spending money I spent more than what my engine is worth on my repaint . My repaint would cost most well over 10k I have maybe 3k in materials/parts. But I am a bodyman so the work was free lol.
Last edited by coppercutlass; Dec 5, 2017 at 08:24 PM.
I agree Copper on the paint job price. I just did the Rustoleum paint job on my 70S, well Tremclad up here in Canada. I will be using 3000 grit and a polishing compound to make it look half decent, hopefully 6 coats was enough. As you said $10K for body work plus paint is easy, especially with the insurance racket up here and needing repair panels and welding. I just can't see driving 220 km(135 miles) to see Mom or 145 km(90 miles) one way to the closest major city at $1.25 a liter for premium or $5.00 a US gallon, which at the bottom end fuel price right now, at 4000 rpm. There isn't gas stations everywhere either, do you even get 5 mpg? I am surprised your engine runs cool enough at that constant rpm. Everything is far away and doing 60 mph is the bare minimum on the highway here. Your car is awesome and mostly old school. If I had the dollars, I would love an original W31 but a OD trans carefully installed in the car to keep me sane, especially with 3.91 gears. My exhaust would be brutal as well at a constant 4000 rpm.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Dec 6, 2017 at 05:59 AM.
Don't let me being a cheap *** fool you I don't mind spending money I spent more than what my engine is worth on my repaint . My repaint would cost most well over 10k I have maybe 3k in materials/parts. But I am a bodyman so the work was free lol.
3k in materials for a 10k + paint job, it pays to be a bodyman !
Pfffffft my wife had a hard time handing over the $500. deductible for my Turkey encounter.
So i told her, HA, would ya' look'it that, Put-er-ther! we get a small touch up bottle for free !.
Nice Job Copper!!
Don't ask me how I stumbled across this thread after all this time...the parts I ended up with are the Edlebrock Performer RPM Intake 7111, Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam 262/268, Holley Avenger 770 Carb, Hooker Full Length Headers, and spinach 6000 mufflers through 2.5 inch pipes. I'm in the process of installing my 10 bolt post rear end with 3.42 gears I purchased from JDRacing along with QA1 adjustable shocks all the way around. I recently ordered a Stage 1 200-4R transmission from Extreme Automatics and a Stage 3 Air Conditioning Kit from Classic AutoAir. The car performs pretty decent but I'm anxious to see how it does once I get the new rear end and transmission installed.
General Motors 350 cubic inch engine. the olds, pontiac, cadillac, GMC, chevy, buick, etc 350 cubic inch engine is the same Olds spins the distributor backwards, but many many parts are the same for the engine.
General Motors 350 cubic inch engine. the olds, pontiac, cadillac, GMC, chevy, buick, etc 350 cubic inch engine is the same Olds spins the distributor backwards, but many many parts are the same for the engine.
Your wrong with the exception to GMC and Chevy and the only parts that may interchange is the distributor cap and rotor.
Well you will not get to 500hp out of you 350, However you could get pretty close to an Honest 400hp. Providing you are willing to look for the Right Parts. Edelbrock RPM Intake manifold. Cam depends on three things, what kind of Compression Rear Gear and what Transmission and Converter. You Want to Make Power. #6 Olds small block head. Head Porting is a MUST!!! Compression no more than 10/1 on the Street. I like the Isky cams. ALOT od duration @.050 You will need at Least .230 @050 and over 500 lift to make some really good power. Forged pistons and get the bottem end balanced!!! I race at 5400ft in Colorado and my 350 olds runs mid 12's on the motor. That would be high 11's at sea level with a Hydralic Cam all Motor. Have beaten a Corvette Z06. He couldn't catch me but he was comming. I have a Total of 7000.00 invested in the car. If you want to see it run...youtube.com
Pueblo Motor Sports Park Oct 26-08 I come on at the 2.13 min and run a Cop car, I also run a Big Block Camaro Track Champion at the 4.33 min mark and race a Nova with a Mean 406 sbc and it took all he could to run me down at the end. I red lit but regardless you Can build a Really Fast 350 olds.
Hey I noticed out of the post yours & a few others were on point with a few upgrades n I have a few questions for u if I may but have to get the paperwork on all I have done but I have had the bottom end & top end done but DNT seem to b getting the power I want still but slightly after the first build I had an elderbrock carb & it performed a lil better out the box than the 770 street avenger I have now but think I need it tuned! My reverse went out so about to do the trans n gears etc now n wonder would the ones u stated b best? N would it b better to try n find the 442 rear end for my 70 or just put the posi unit? Gears, converter, & do u think I will need drivetrain work? I DNT drive it daily but I do want it street/strip as they say nowadays that I quote everyone has a street car😆😆! Getting it ready for big wheel racing & shows! M.B.A.
With "big wheel racing", you can get away with a 3.73 gear and it will be much easier on drivetrain components and not sing at 4000RPM on the highway. I suggest starting your own thread instead of digging up a 10 year old thread....You'll get better answers.
with a small block cruising at 3500 rpm plus actually gives me my best MPG. That's with a 3.90 and a 28 inch tall tire. It comes down to comfort of driving. I don't mind driving at 4k rpm but it scares some.
Replied to halos you wanted & screwy site said i had a reply ....sent me an email & link.....yet nothin in messages
Pls call or txt 989721 9432 to convienently comunicate rather than SOP here...pull teeth hit head w/hammer get nowhere fast.....
& rebuild...330 crank is forged although only cast ones I ever saw broke was beaten by myself repeatedly with 10# sledge like my fones about to get it keeps actin up ,..., oil galley restrictors & roller rockers, roller cam & associated valvetrain...largest valves u can sqeeze in & timming spark plugs leg or usin plugs with new designs to improve flame propagnation & increase volumetric efficiency , gasket match heads & intake block off LH heads exhaust crossover as well & if your msd oil pressure kill switch is not activated by a hole drilled down south into pressure side of punp close to pump as possible....it ain't worth a rats *** n your engine is junk despite msds attempts....unfortunate experience.... Manual everything u can ...sterring ...elect. Fan...no ac & 79 toro had crank triddered ignition allowin a vacume pump where dist was if you like power adsisted brakes....windage trays top n bottom reduces unnessicary oil on rottatin masses...& follow through with strange axles so your 50 year old oem axle dont snap at flange allowin tire assembly to do unmentionable damadge to quarter panel / gas tank bumper ect.& th diehard been known to chrome their hood hinges for an additional 20 hp
Best to call or txt 989 721 9432