I discovered I need a 1" carb spacer to make the cruise control clear the EGR mount on my edelbrock 3711 manifold. Can I/should I just bend the hard line to accommodate? I am afraid to kink it. Maybe order a repop and bend it?

 

If not a very tight bend, it can be done.
Put the tubing around a round fence post, thick-walled piece of pipe, or similar item of correct radius to control the amount of bend.
If you try to do it with only your hands, yes it can kink fast and easy.
If just a small amount of bend, you could even use your knee, ankle, or leg - what ever size you need. Worked for me before when i had to custom fit an ill-fitting repop line...

 

I've read (but never tried) that one can fill the tubing with sand to keep it from collapsing. I'd clean it out a few hundred times after, if you decide to try it.

 

Not to sound like a jerk, but a lot of it depends on experience and hand strength.

There was an ancient Greek wrestler, Milo of Croton, who was said to be so strong that he could hold a pomegranate in his hand, and no man could take it from him, and afterward, the pomegranate would be completely unbruised.

Similarly, if you have good strength in your hands, you can bend the tubing slowly, in the way that you want it bent, without kinking it.
If you do not, though, you will have a hard time modulating the force, and will likely surge and kink it.

There's nothing wrong with bending it as much as you can, but if you feel you really have to give it a real "Umph," then stop and use a tool, because that "Umph" is not controllable.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the input. Sounds like bending the stock one is possible, but I might be better off making my own. Any recommendations on a bender/flaring kit and tubing/fittings?

 

I forget the diameter of the tubing, but I think it's ⅜".

You can use copper or steel (I think some say that copper has a greater chance of cracking, but I think the reason it wasn't used was because it's more expensive).
The ends have a 45° flare and require 45° flare nuts (which you probably already have on the old tubing).

You need a 45° American flaring tool, which is easy to get (though maybe not on Okinawa...), and which you should have anyway for brake lines.

- Eric

 

I'll wind up ordering everything from amazon or the like I'm sure. Off to google

 

Flare Tool:

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-...owViewpoints=1

Bender:


Cutter:

 

3/8 line:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...2538/overview/



What size fittings do I need for the ends? I don't want to cut up the factory line to steal those. Anything else I need?

 

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...8_21813_90079/

Here ya go, with ends. The ends will thread directly into carb and fuel pump. If you fish around here, you should find it in around a 20-24 inch length. Get 2 or 3 of them. Practice with old coat hanger or welding wire before you bend these, just to get the shape.
You will be happy you did, and it will look top notch.
Here is the one I bent for my 65 :


Just remember, it is really, really tough to get the inlet bend just before the carb as tight as the factory did, try not to kill yourself doing it. With the spacer under the carb, you will not need to.

DONT use the aluminum fuel line. My opinion is that it's CRAP. Used it 2X and both times trashed it after 1 use. Use steel for a street car.

 

The stupid autozone site is redirecting me to the generic page. Guess it won't allow linking. Got a part number?

 

Try again:
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-t...96489&cmpid=cj
Check all the sizes, make sure it is the 3/8th lin e with 5/8ths ends. They have it in 20-24 inch lengths.

 

I've always used one like this:

You need to be able to do double-flares for most of this stuff.


I have one of those. Never used it. It's easier to use my hands.


Those often come with the flare kit, but if not, then, yeah, that's the kind I find most useful.

- Eric

 

I don't do a lot of double flaring but have had it go poorly. Probably due to using cheap tools instead of real ones.

One trick I have heard which served me well is to NOT cut the tubing using the roller cutter wheel. They work-harden the end of the line and smish it in.

Cut with a saw [hack saw], then file flat and square. Then do the two step flaring.

Others with more experience please elaborate.

 

i wouldnt go thru all that work and expense to make your own....just screw one end into the fuel pump tight using your hands to hold and bend the other end

 

X2

I had to 're-orient' my pre-bent hardline due to '68 pump differences. Just took my time and got it perfect with just hands & a screwdriver stuck in the end. You might as well try the manual method since you were going to replace the line anyways...

 

You can re-bend the original line or create a new line by using the tools discussed.
If you want to use the original line as is, you can make up the difference with appropriate fittings.
Whatever you decide, also be sure to check the air cleaner to hood clearance. Some are close in stock condition.

 

I have bent a few stock lines to meet up w/ carb inlet on multiple RPM's, 3711 w/ spacers + BBO raised height manifolds. Easily done by hand. As mentioned above, screw it into fuel pump, finger tighten the nut, open the radius upward above fuel pump & then work the carb end down keeping line square to the inlet. Worst that can happen is you kill it & have to obtain another or buy some line & flare it.

 

I've got new line and a bender + flaring tool to make a new line. I think I'm going to try it a little later after I get everything up and running with out the spacer first. One other issue I realized I'm going to have to tackle as well is bending the choke tubes. Not a huge issue, but the short one has some small, tight turns and is kind of a pain in the butt to get right. It also appears the replacement choke stove I got from ILT doesn't fit into the 3711 intake so well. I kinda had to force it in there and tighten it down (hopefully) flat/sealed with the bolts. Oh well, guess I'll find out if it sealed in a few days.