Howdy,

[This feels like AA; "My Olds is a 1989 Custom Cruiser, 307 V8/RWD"]

Anyhoo, my car is supposed to have three belts. I say "supposed to" as I found that one of them runs just the A/C compressor and "smog pump," and as the A/C isn't charged and the smog pump was making a racket my mechanic (I use the term loosely) just cut that one.

Problem solved. Sort of.

Here's the crux of my "new" problem: Ever since that belt went away (2 months) I've had belt squeal coming from the one that runs the power steering. I had both remaining belts replaced when the 3rd one was cut, but it seems they just can't tighten the belt(s) enough to keep them from slipping.

Up until recently belt-squeal-begone "belt conditioner" spray kept it in check, but with the mid-20 degree weather we have now it shrieks on start-up (and warm-up while turning tightly) like you just waxed its no-no place. Again, the belt spray helps, but hardly at all now. Rev the engine and it shrieks. Turn like you're parallel parking and it shrieks. Basically, shrieks all around.

Dumb question #1: Did the cut belt counterbalance the other two, so that now that there's no "tension" on the center and alternator (right) belts from that side it shrieks? Would re-belting that side fix it?

DQ#2: The consensus seems to be that there's probably a washer or something missing from the last time (God knows when) someone removed/replaced the power steering pump, leaving it out-of-whack so that the belt isn't fully "in-the-groove" as it were, meaning I have to re-take-it-apart to fix it. I'd like to know more than "probably" before I do this, so is it PROBABLE as well?

DQ#3: All three belts were at least 8 months old when I replaced them, but despite their being old (brown-ish, cracked, a little shiny) they didn't squeal a bit. What the hell happened? Is this my A/C compressor getting back at me? Is this GM's way of "making" you keep the smog stuff hooked up? She's like dating a beautiful woman that has a dude's voice: everyone admires her until they hear her "speak", then they're just sad for you...

[Thanks for reading all the way to here, whether you know about such things or not. I'm good at editing other peoples' work, not necessarily my own. Something about doctors writing their own prescriptions comes to mind...]

Drew

 

You nailed it. Extremely common problem when you remove the smog pump and compressor on the 307. You'll find umpteen posts about that one. Put them both back on. If the A/C clutch isn't engaged, it won't use any power. It's basically an idler pulley. The smog pump uses maybe 1hp to turn. If you run just the A/C, you will need a shorter belt. 15540 worked for me, but required constant retensioning. It was too long. The belt wobbled around and beat up my lower rad. hose. You might want to try the 15535. Your other option is to find a non AC bracket for the smog pump and get a non AC smog pump belt. Not an option in Arizona.

It's a major hassle for 1hp. Not to mention that the cruise control on my year 307 needs the smog pump to work. I gave up and put the smog pump back on. I have heard about some people relocating the alternator to the passenger side to balance the belts out, but I don't know what's involved.

Not sure what you mean on DQ #2. Can you explain?

As far as your new belts squealing, it sounds like they need to be retensioned. New belts DO break in (i.e. Stretch). Don't bother until you put the compressor and smog pump back on.

Bottom line, the engineer designed the system to work a certain way with certain components. Everything is there for a reason. It may not make sense to us, but every part has a purpose. There are ways to get around it, but they may not be worth the time and effort for negligible gain. It's easier to stick to what works.

By the way. Your post is hilarious! Huhhuhuh waxed itss no-no...that's awesome

 

Put the belt back on and tension to specs. If the smog pump is noisy, replace it.
Also check to make sure your water pump shaft has no play in it or is loose.
For it to make that much difference in geometry, other issues could be lurking.

On my 86, the only way I silenced my belts was to use AC Delco belts, as the belt face angles on the aftermarket ones were not right.

 

A few comments.

First, I remain surprised by the amount of squealing belt problems people have with the 307. I purposely ran mine with the A/C belt off and when the PS pump is properly tensioned, there is no squealing.

Second, most people do not know how to properly adjust the PS pump belt. There are three fasteners that must be loosened - two bolts behind the pulley and a nut on the bottom backside of the pump. Once loose, insert a large screwdriver or pry bar behind the pulley, between the nose of the pump and the tab on the bracket. Lever the pump to tension the belt while tightening the fasteners. This usually takes three hands.

Third, replace the A.I.R. pump. Once the CCC system goes closed look, pump output air is diverted to the catalytic converter to keep it from overheating and melting the matrix. Do NOT ask me how I know this...

 

I have no problem re-belting it if it even *might* fix the squeal, but that'll bring back the old noise that started this snowball.

SO, while I "have" you here, PLEASE tell me there's an easier way to determine what-goes-where with that stupid smog system than trying to follow the little sticker on the fan shroud or guesstimating using the diagrams in my factory B-Body service manual.

I have at least two "hoses to nowhere" either just cut off near their closest connection point or--as was the case when I bought the car--one just sort of hanging down and exiting halfway between the chassis and the ground.

I am starting to think that the noise that pump was making was probably due to it just pumping out its air to nowhere. It was a very cyclical sound, almost like when your brush pack goes out on your alternator or when you drive on "sticker" tires [wush-wush-wush].

This is the first car I've owned that falls in that fat, horrible era between power and emissions. I am still under the naive assumption that I can "undo" the crap slapped on this 307 to meet emissions despite it not being designed to do so (though it's fading, FAST).

There seems to be nothing I CAN do, however, short of swapping it out for an earlier motor (455, perhaps? Something else? ANYTHING else?). But as with most things automotive, the part you WANT to break never does while the choice (read: expensive) ones do regularly. It'll suck to eventually spend the same $ on fixing this 307 that I would have spent on replacing it with a "better" engine.

For now I'll take solace in the fact that I can say she has "matching numbers." That has to count for SOMETHING, right?...

 

Drew,

I would strongly suggest you pick up the factory service manual for your car. It's been a lifesaver as far a figuring out what goes where.

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/%...n--P14217.aspx

If you have time and it's not freezing where you are, why not go to your local salvage yard? There are still tons of 307 cars at the yards in my area, so I don't see why there wouldn't be any in yours. There's bound to be one that's near your model year and not cannibalized. You know what they say about what a picture is worth. Speaking of which, I do have pictures of mine, but I don't know what's changed in the air pump circuit between 1983 and 1989. I'll see if I can find them and maybe they will be useful.

 

Or post some pictures here of the hoses to nowhere (end and origin) and I can look on my 86's virgin 307 and see where they go.