I thought that'd get your attention

So the engine re-install looks like it might actually happen tomorrow. But I'll have all the accessories to get back on and the dual exhaust to install so is there any point in priming tomorrow before I put the engine in? Would it make the second priming (before first start) shorter and easier?

 

Yes and yes. Make sure you have oil pressure gauge hooked up or the block fitting plugged off. Makes for one heck if an overhead mess otherwise.

 

Block fitting? Oh, do you mean where I have the oil sending unit screwed in? Oil won't splash out of the Distributor hole will it?

 

No, there is no pressure in that area.

 

Thanks Randy

 

You should be able to see the oil squirting out onto the distributor gear though if you look down into there

 

I would prime it on the stand with the valve covers off. Insure that all your rockers are flowing oil prior to installing. It will take a few minutes with a drill, but I hate the surprise of no oil flow after I went through all the trouble of the install. Only to have to pull it out again.

 

X2^^
Much easier if you find you have an oiling fault before installing the engine.


Roger.

 

Understood. Let's just hope that's not the case. I read it's helpful to fill the oil filter before installing. Good idea?
Trying to get an early start. Supposed to rain this afternoon. I'll let you all know how it went (if it did) this evening in my "Pulling the motor" thread.
Thanks.

 

If you prime the system you will fill the filter anyway.
The Buick/Oldsmobile 215 in its Rover V8 guise couldn't be primed because of the oil pump drive being geared rather than shaft driven. It was recommended that the oil pump should be packed with petroleum jelly to ensure minimal lag before oil got pushed round the engine. In that particular case it was a good idea to fill the oil filter before installing.
It's also a good idea to fill oil filters before instillation when doing an oil & filter change. Make sure the oil going in is kept clean!.


Roger.

 

Remember to run the drill motor backwards or counter clockwise. Otherwise you might really be upset when no oil at all moves.

 

Engine is well primed, in it's nest, and we're trying to get it lined up as best we can. will update later.
BTW, tomorrow is Maggie's (my daughter's) birthday so she'll need a lot of kudos when we're done

 

I didn't prime mine. I was lazy

 

How long did it take for oil pressure to build up?.


Roger.

 

not long at all. the engine wasn't firing due to it not getting fuel. I cranked the engine until the battery got weak (which didn't take long to happen) maybe 30 seconds of cranking. At that time I pulled the valve covers, and the rockers already had oil on them.

 

Taking the plugs out will also help you spin the engine for a bit longer if priming isn't an option.


Roger.

 

The engine actually primed in under a minute. I hadn't hot tanked the block so there must have been oil in the passages still.

 

Mac was there oil coming from the pushrods ? I took me atleast 10 minutes with an air drill to do my last engine.

 

Yeah Copper, all the pushrods. Filled the rockers and over the side of the block. Glad I taped rags on the side.

 

Maybe I didn't use a heavy enough oil? 10w30 with a bottle of break-in fluid.

 

You want oil getting round your engine ASAP, 10w30 should be fine for an engine built to modern tolerances,


Roger.

 

I used 15w40 with a zddp additive. The oil psi went up fast but it took a while to get oil from the pushrods. I found it odd too. But never had issues with oil psi. The previous 2 engines I built it was fast like withing 3 minutes I had oil coming out the pushrods.

 

Maybe I should clarify; I got oil out the first pushrod in under a minute. Might have been 2-1/2 before it came out of all of them. I used Lucas zddp I think. I thought it odd but the directions were to fill with oil to normal capacity and add the entire bottle on top of it.