Oldsmobilliam

So I need to replace a freeze plug. Its the back one on the drivers side, nearest the oil pan. I am really needing to change it with the motor in the car. Any suggestions??

While I have the exhaust manifold off Im thinking of grinding down the EGR bumps. Any ideas?

Last, Im having some issues with my instrument cluster light. The fuse keeps blowing and Im thinking i need to get behind the dash. Is that very hard to do?

Thanks you guys.

Yellowstatue

For the left freeze plug, think about removing the left wheel and the wheel house...you could walk right in...

Oldsmobilliam

Now thats a super idea! I esp like the "walk right in" part.

NOTDADS

I'm about to pull my manifold as well, to hopefully fix a vaccuum leak. Is it a good idea to grind down the egr bumps while the heads are on the car? I've done a little reading on it and wanted to see what people thought as well.

Allan R

Why do you need to take off the EGR bumps? I know that most guys don't like the EGR, but it's part of the emissions control on these cars. I would just leave it along.

Re Instrument cluster.
I assume that you're talking about the car in the picture right? (1980-84 Ninety Eight?) I had an 83 Ninety Eight Regency Brougham. The dash on 89-84 is basically the same with a few cosmetic changes. BTW, does your car have the gauge package on the lower part of the dash? The dash lights are on a printed circuit board. It may have some heat issues or solder problems, but that shouldn't blow the fuse. When you turn on the lights, is that what blows the fuse? Check to see if any of your light sockets on the car have bad grounds.

To get to the dash, it's really easy. There are a couple of screws that hold the main face in place located in the plastic trim above the speedo opening. 2 if i remember correctly. Take em out.

Now, you've got to take out the headlight ****. Reach up in behind to find the lamp control module. You'll feel a little metal button on the top of it that you press down. While you're holding it down, pull the light **** out all the way. The tone generator will start bonging. You can disconnect it temporarily. Now take off the lower trim piece thats under the steering wheel. It has plastic pressure clips holding it to the main dash, so be careful not to break them. To make the rest of the removal really easy, I usually put on the park brake, key up the car without starting it, and move the tranny selector to L and tilt the column to give more room to work with. Now GENTLY tug the dash out. It is only held in with pressure clips. I usually started with the right side and eased it out on the left. Take your time.

Once the face is off, everything is held in place by (9/32??) screws.

When you're putting the dash back, gently press in the clips till they clik, then reinstall the headlight **** - you just push it in. Dont' need to go under the dash to do this. Then reinstall the 2 upper dash screws.

OlBluehairCruiser

If you have to pass emissions I would not remove because you change the flow design of your heads and never do port work on your heads still attached to engine because metal goes everywhere when grinding and is impossible to get it all out with heads still on car. However if your car does not have to pass emissions standards[ I think 79' and older ] you can gain 50 or so horse power and some torque by street porting heads but to make it worth while you really have to do intake, exhaust passages, clean up rough areas in and around valve pockets and match the intake manifold ports with new intake ports of heads as well.