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While waiting for my new water pump to be shipped, I got into changing the vacuum hoses that I tried to get away with not changing last summer. It's the lastest lesson in a long list of things I've learned from mistakes: Always take pictures before taking anything off!!
The engine is a 307 in a 1981 Delta 88 R.B. Originally it had A/C but it's been deleted, as well has the cruise control; previous owner said cruise stopped working so he took out the fuse, however didn't do anything with the vacuum hoses. I had a friend help me change the brake booster last summer and he suspected that may have had something to do with the booster leaking, then plugged the vacuum line from the manifold going to the cruise.
Everything towards the back looks to be in the right places, but when it starts getting into all the T-connections, I get spun around due to the things that buddy deleted. The EGR is not functioning as well, the diaphragm is old and cracked. The old timer at the auto parts store suggested just welding the valve shut and sticking it back on, for the time being it seemed if it wasn't moving, what's the difference?
I'm positive I've screwed something up, so I've stopped making things worse and just taken a few pictures. If anyone can lead me in the right direction I would appreciate it a great deal. The insurance kicks back in on Saturday and I'm trying not to want to wake up on the couch Sunday.
This brings back memories, I had the exact same car. Are you using the original air cleaner? Carefully follow the vacuum lines one at a time and make sure they are routed as shown.
Yes, currently I'm using the original air cleaner, and the cruise control was disconnected by the previous owner, not planning on using it so the servo is gonzo.
The first thing you need to do is get rid of that clear vinyl tubing. That isn't vacuum hose and wil likely collapse when you start the engine or melt once the engine is warm.
Also make sure you delete the catalytic converter when you weld the EGR valve closed or install a cap. Don't forget to reset your timing and carburetor.
The cruz servo has been remove, but Issue is the control rod from the servo to the carb throttle linkage is still attached ! that does not look good . looks unsafe to me . what if you go full throttle and that rod jams on something at full throttle ! I would remove that asap .I am new to forums i would think this should be a whole new thread , as your thread topic is Vacuum hose routing .
I agree you need to not have that clear plastic hose , you need 5 / 32 vacuum hose , shops here also call it windshield washer hose
The pellet cat converter on my car car was so hot i thought it was going to melt or burn the carpet front passenger side . but kept it in place until i passed an inspection then took it off. But interesting does removing it affect something else ? you did not mention a smog pump . Cat its not vacuum hose routing but it is part of emission .
I also have a car sold in Canada , my emission hose routing diagram is the same as yours but part number is different . only diff i can see is timing .
Picture of your engine and EGR system does not match your diagram , 3 items are missing , but i do not know if you need all the missing items . One item if you keep the EGR is you are missing a control item, i think its a delay . your connection from carb to EGR no delay , so is EGR always open? when engine is running? or is that a ported inlet on the carb ? i think that means only has vacuum when you open throttle . So thats a ported carb inlet or does he need the delay . as if EGR is to be always open , then why have it ! would be nice to know if that vac line from carb to EGR is acceptable ? and is it a ported inlet ? You say your EGR is in bad shape , so is it leaking exhaust into intake or stuck closed ? discribe how the engine is running ? engine ping ? option to test EGR or plug off long term is make a new gasket but with the square hole covered . a fast very short term way to test EGR is cut a bus card slide it under egr to block off the square hole . Or as already mentioned , could get an EGR block off plate. Or new EGR with delay control . But i will not comment on keep the EGR or delete it . pictures attached are custom made gasket with no square hole . I think the round hole is the exhaust side and the square hole is the intake vacuum side .
In diagram it shows a charcoal cannister is it still in place ? in your pictures looks like the charcoal cannister vacuum line has been cut , shortened and plugged off , the other side of that black round control item is the bowl vent and a vac hose to base of carb . The round black item is it a purge control? But how does that affect carb vent bowl ? is bowl vented with a hose plugged off ? or under vacuum when purge opens ? does car stumble ? like its not getting fuel ?
Last edited by 307-5a; September 13th, 2021 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: wanted to keep to post thread topic , and add new ideas
Welcome Roy, glad you joined the site as I suggested. Good question on the belt. The 307 Vin Y needs the A/C compressor in place or only one belt one belt runs off the crank, not enough. The alternator only turns off the water pump and will squeal and slip till it burns right off, happened to me. That belt he used must been forced on around the crank and water pump pulley. There is a non A/C alternator bracket for the passenger side, it requires a shorter 5.6" water pump and matching pulleys. It is also possible with the earlier dual groove power steering pump and matching pulleys and running all off the passenger side. I got mine off a 76 Cutlass with a 350 and A/C, I bought for $50. I sure got my $50 five times over back off that car.
Melville . oops ! sorry! Notice i edited my post at the same time you posted . i deleted my comments about the belts and AC , notice my comment why i edited , as that topic is a whole new issue . BrownBomb82 has a few issues going on there . should they be sorted out one at a time ? in a new thread ? maybe BrownBomb82 if he is interested could start new thread Questions ? maybe cruz delete and AC delete.
original topic Vacuum hose routing. This topic of Vacuum lines and diagrams will never go away . Readers , Even if your car is not having issues now at some point It will , as the hoses are getting older , we can all buy new vac hose , but can we get them off anything without breaking control items and plastic fittings and the 4 way vac fitting. and can we replace any of the control items delays , purge etc . Or can we test them ? can we even buy a new 4 way vacuum line connection ? So then all car owners need to find out what are the very basic things that their engine has to have and what can be gone . Brown Bomb have you looked at the thread on this forum Gutting the 307 emission control vacuum lines ,it is very close to this thread . That thread has great info . everyone reading this do what Brown Bomb 82 did take a picture of the vac hose diagram on your fan shroud. Keep this as a reference , or at very least know what is the part number of your vacuum hose diagram . notice that part number is in the diagram picture.
Last edited by 307-5a; September 12th, 2021 at 12:13 PM.
Reason: was a bit of a rant
This diagram ( part # 22514462) is on my 1982 delta 88 307 engine also Canadian car , notice it all looks the same / except the timing and the part number . an item removed that you might like back on is the Transmission converter lockup ( TCC ) electric vacuum switch Part # 22510176 . or keep track of the electrical connection for it. i think i see it tucked up between the two heater hoses , the wire fitting connection has 3 wires going into plug , 2 join at plug , so 3 into 2 .
Last edited by 307-5a; October 12th, 2021 at 07:10 PM.
May 12th, 2021, 06:33 AM
