Hello everyone!

I just wanted to ask you for some general informations and/or opinions about Heads on my 355.
Since that im running #7a Heads which are completely stock except the new valves, im thinking about doing some work on them over the winter like:

- filling heat riser/exhaust crossover with molten aluminium
- welding the exhaust divider to get flush with the exhaust flange surface (or milling the heads down to get the same effect
- doing some port/bowl cleaning/smoothening
- maybe installing 2.000 intake valve

Im just wondering if these works are worth the effort, specially becauce i know that welding on cast iron always brings the risk of tension cracks because of the heat. AND, what im wondering too is, if i fill the heat riser/exhaust ports with the molten aluminium and rework the bowls with the grinder, cant this chunk of aluminium get loose over the time?

I whatched a few videos and looked at some pictures of how this procedure works, but it would be great to get some Tips and ideas of someone who has done this already.

are the 2.000 intake valves really worth it on a street application?

I would love to keep the #7a heads because of the stock look, and i think those oldschool modifications are really cool. Maybe, someone has a few pictures of doing this modification to stock heads?

the only reason why i think about getting aluminium heads too is the much lighter weight, and for sure, they already have the larger valves and maybe no porting is necessary for my application.

I know that i cant reuse my mechanical fuel pump and i would have them milled because of the large 77cc chamber, which are 2 contra points for them.

i would love to get some opinions from some of you olds enthusiasts who are dealing around with this stuff maybe as long or longer than i live .

Thanks a lot!

 

Yes, the 2" or 2.07" intake valve along with 1.625" valves are a worthwhile upgrade as long as the bowls are opened with either a bowl hog cutter or with a die grinder. If you go aluminum, wait for the new 68cc version coming from Edelbrock in the spring. They also allow a mechanical fuel pump on your 350. The older version of the Edelbrock or the Procomp don't allow it due to head overhang.

 

Don't do lead in heat riser. I did it on my stocker and melted away. Found 1 small chunk of it when pulling intake. The rest went out the exhaust. Aluminum plugs should work. Now I have a stainless metal plate covering holes.

 

thanks for the answer! Ok, so is there some recommended set of valves? Brand?

Ok cool! I havent knew that there will be a new set of edelbrock heads! Will this a special set for SBO, since the "classic" edelbrock heads are for big blocks? Is there somewhere some information about the new set?

 

ok, yeah i can belive that. I was thinking of melting some old pistons down.

i also read that some people just use tin plates to block off the exhaust crossover, but i dont want just to block the crossover, my main motivation is to divide the center exhaust ports.

 

I have filled two sets of heads, I think I used melted down pistons both times. One set I ran for about 5 years when one day it started running funny, after I pulled the engine I noticed a piece of aluminum had come loose but was too big to get passed the valve.

 

Its a lot to go through, but there is some info in the thread lol.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-heads-151676/

 

Yes, 68cc improved, modern chambers, flow 265/195 and have the notched end for mechanical fuel pumps. They have BBO sized ports so a RPM or Victor intake is needed. You can get out your grinding urges on the intake to match the head port size.

 

Ok, i just took a look on the new-heads- thread. Awesome! It seems that this is exactly what a lot of people here are waiting for 👍, RPM intake is already lying in the garage. Will they be available on summit racing?

looks like i wont rip apart my engine over winter.

 

They’ll be available thru me as well as all the regular outlets.

 

Ok, thank you 👍