72 350 rocket
Dont forget that between 1971 and 1972 the way Oldsmobile rated horsepower changed.
The standard 2bbl cutlass weighed in at 160HP in 1972 and had a significantly higher rating in 1971 for the exact same engine.
That being said, there's alot of guys on here that beefed up their 1972 350 blocks to pump out quite a bit of power. I plan on doing the same.
The standard 2bbl cutlass weighed in at 160HP in 1972 and had a significantly higher rating in 1971 for the exact same engine.
That being said, there's alot of guys on here that beefed up their 1972 350 blocks to pump out quite a bit of power. I plan on doing the same.
I was looking at some flat-top pistons today and gasket sets but i'm not sure where to start.
I had machine shop do my work. I'd have to break out the paperwork but I know he did the .030" over, forged piston route. Heads are still wheezing 7A's but bottom end is pretty stout.
Flat tops are going to get you too much compression unless you want a a pretty large cam which leads to a set of headers which leads to a pretty large torque converter which leads to a pretty deep gear.
Just depends on what you really want the car to be and how much of a money pit you want to get started.
If you use a new set of stock pistons and spend your money on some blueprinting of the engine with a smaller cam you will still end up with an engine that makes that magic 300HP and it will still be gas friendly and will still get fair gas milage.
Just my opinion but I've been done this road to bigger isn't always better and it costs twice as much to do it twice.
Just depends on what you really want the car to be and how much of a money pit you want to get started.
If you use a new set of stock pistons and spend your money on some blueprinting of the engine with a smaller cam you will still end up with an engine that makes that magic 300HP and it will still be gas friendly and will still get fair gas milage.
Just my opinion but I've been done this road to bigger isn't always better and it costs twice as much to do it twice.
I used the stock 7cc pistons witch netted just a little over 10-1 compression with the decking and head milling. That would be great if I wanted a large cam and headers but I don't, I use my car on the road (at least what I'm trying to do) and it pings on the road bad, I have a set of #8 heads at the shop being rebuilt now because that's the only reasonable way of getting the compression down in the 9 to 9.2 area I want it to be.
Your engine would be very easy to get to that same compression using stock parts with proper machine work.
Your engine would be very easy to get to that same compression using stock parts with proper machine work.
Not really, IMO. The problem is piston availability. Stock replacements are 24cc dish and 1.595 p/h. Even at zero deck and 60 cc chambers, cr is right at 9 to 1. It is too hard working around the dish. You could spend big $ for the Egge 14cc dish. In the long run, the old 400 SBC piston/rod combo is the most cost-effective route. An easier approach is to get Speed Pro flat tops, measure everything and get a "D" shaped dish milled into them.
Not really, IMO. The problem is piston availability. Stock replacements are 24cc dish and 1.595 p/h. Even at zero deck and 60 cc chambers, cr is right at 9 to 1. It is too hard working around the dish. You could spend big $ for the Egge 14cc dish. In the long run, the old 400 SBC piston/rod combo is the most cost-effective route. An easier approach is to get Speed Pro flat tops, measure everything and get a "D" shaped dish milled into them.
I'd always vote for a stock part over a custom built part for street use, but then we haven't heard what the OP want's from this car.
In MHO the OP needs to be talking with his machine shop about specifics.
Have a look at this 350 motor ..http://realoldspower.prophpbb.com/topic2050.html
72 350
im looking to have more hp. I will probably drive a lot on the road, like not in the city either highway or just back roads. I deff don't want to be screaming down the high way. I basically just want what 1970 had.
I'd jump on that set of pistons Copper has and then just build the engine right with a small cam. Deck and bore the block, balance the assembly, rebuild the rods with a new set of rod bolts, rebuild the heads with a good valve job, do some porting if it's in the budget, there's a lot of HP in making your engine as close to perfect as you can afford. You don't need a lot of fancy parts for a street car just good machine work and a good plan, which you should be making with your machinist.
I have a nice 350 for sale out of a 1972 cutlass we'll built if you have any question please call are email 7708718367 are quentinnw2@yahoo.com thanks.
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