SonnyBrainerd

Hey, I've got a '64 cutlass with a 330 rocket. It overheats while sitting in traffic or if I'm going real slow. I hear some people say to get a new fan, and some say a radiator. Thoughts? And what brand or model parts should I get? Thank you!

76olds

You could pull the rad and check the flow, stand it up rite keep you hand over the lower rad hose connection while filling it up with water.
Once full and you take your hand away the water should flow out in no more than 4-5 seconds.
Are the tubes closing up with build up ? ( White scale ) you should be able to see that if you drain some of the coolant.
The drivers side ( Lower tank) will have the most build up which is harder to see without an inspection camera.
I put a Be Cool rad in my car (76olds) a little expensive but, It works well.
Very well built in the great U.S of A, good flow and I would say the best on the market for cooling fin separation.
I wouldn't drop the temperature T-stat to band aid the problem as some do.
If the tubes don't have any mineral deposits and the fins are basically all in tack,no rot or loose fins, then I would be looking at the water pump, fan and possible the T-stat for problems.
What temps do you see sitting in traffic?
I hope this helps,
Eric

joe_padavano

Well, your car didn't overheat in traffic when it was new and had that fan, so what is changed now? While a new radiator won't hurt, a clogged radiator is MUCH more likely to cause an overheating problem at speed, not at idle.

Is the car stock? How are the vacuum advance and initial timing set? How is the carb adjusted? Keep in mind that today's ethanol-loaded gasoline causes an engine to run lean. This can cause overheating. If the vac advance is not working properly at idle, or if initial timing is set incorrectly, that will cause overheating. If the timing chain is worn and loose, this can cause retarded timing and overheating.

I can tell you the one thing it ISN'T - it's not the water pump. Don't waste your money on a new one unless you see a leak from the pump or a wobble from worn bearings.

76olds

This ^^^^^ what Joe posted is from experience !! Something that I don't have but learning from his posts.
Oh and I do write this stuff down, so many notes taken in the past few years from many here.
I appreciate your posts Joe, just can't thank you enough !!
Put-r-ther
Eric

oldcutlass

What temperature is it getting to?

olds 307 and 403

If it has a fan clutch replace it with the heavy duty replacement. As Joe said, chances of it being a rad at low speeds is slim to none. Is it the stock fan? The factory fans move much more air than most aftermarket ones.

330jetstar

Do you have an overflow very important to keep the fluid up.

joe_padavano

A 1964 Olds didn't come with an overflow tank and thus did not have the correct cap for a tank to work. One mistake that people unfamiliar with these older cars make is to completely fill the radiator to the top. DO NOT do this. The coolant level is supposed to be about an inch or so down in the radiator tank - the original radiator has a stamped FILL LINE mark on it near the radiator cap. Fill it to the top and it WILL puke coolant until the level goes down to where it is supposed to be.

SonnyBrainerd

I keep looking for a new radiator that'll fit it, but I've searched for three days and can't find anything at all to fit. It needs to have both the In and Out ports of the radiator on the drivers side. Also needs to be about 26" Wide and 20 or 21" tall. apparently the 64 cutlass f85 with the 330 has a fairly unique radiator.


Also, there's no fan shroud and the fan is about 2 or 3 inches from the radiator. Should I consider getting a spacer or fan shroud?


Thank you again everyone!

oldcutlass

You have not told us what temp the engine is getting to.

SonnyBrainerd

It stays at 190 degrees when it's cool outside or while i'm driving. If it's 80 outside or hotter and I stop in traffic or park, it'll heet up to around 240 degrees and keep getting hotter.


Thanks!

SonnyBrainerd

It stays at 190 degrees when it's cool outside or while i'm driving. If it's 80 outside or hotter and I stop in traffic or park, it'll heet up to around 240 degrees and keep getting hotter.


Thanks!

lunaboy

i have a 64 harrison radiator . pm if interested.

Fun71

If you have the end tanks, a radiator shop should be able to build you a radiator with a new core. I had a high efficiency 4 row core installed on my factory 3 row end tanks by a local shop.

shiftbyear

Did this just start happening? Have you made any changes to the car? Has the car been sitting a long time? Next time it starts overheating pull over and increase the rpm up to 2000rpm and watch the gauge. If it cools down it may be your water pump is not efficient or is turning too slow at idle or low speed driving. Could be other issues also, a correctly positioned fan shroud is important, a high flow thermostat, correct cap, ect. Good luck

oldcutlass

What is your timing set to? Is your carb running to lean at idle? If it still has the stock radiator and none of the tubes have been blocked off, I would do a cooling system flush. Like Joe explained in a previous post the cooling system was adequate when new.

classicmuscle442

Same radiator as a '65 Cutlass/442, probably earlier ones too. The radiator changed to crossflow in '66, completely different. Would check radiator out as is most likely the problem. Cars with A/C had upper hose on passenger side.

olds 307 and 403

As said, is it a factory fan, does it have a clutch? A shroud may help but the factory didn't have one, what has changed? Look on Summit and just put in Radiators and this came up with a ton of others. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-380325

MDchanic

No it's not.

'64 was one year only, with the outlet on the opposite side.

- Eric

therobski

X2 MDchanic. The core support between the 64-65's are different too. Since most of you guys know my 64 F-85 build is a Pro-Touring car not built for originality-built for comfort and safety. I chose a Champion aluminum radiator for 64-65 GTO drops right in. Used a 65-up water pump making sure I got the right one that lines up with the rest of later model pulleys. done.

classicmuscle442

Yes it is, differance is with a/c, as stated.

joe_padavano

A blocked radiator would cause overheating at all times, especially at high speed. The OP's problem is at idle. Radiator is unlikely to be the primary cause, however it can contribute.

MDchanic

Question: What is wrong with this picture of a 1964 330 non-A/C water pump?



- Eric

joe_padavano

Not sure where you're going with that Eric, but Classicmuscle is correct in that the UPPER hose connection on the A/C cars is on the passenger side of the radiator, as is the case on my 64 Vista. The 1964 lower hose is on the driver's side, however, which is not the same on a 1965 radiator. The passenger side upper connection was necessary due to the relocated alternator to make room for the A/C compressor.

To summarize radiator configurations:

1964 non-A/C - Upper and lower both on driver's side
1964 A/C - Upper passenger, lower driver
1965 non-A/C - Upper driver, lower passenger
1965 A/C - Upper and lower both passenger side

MDchanic

Thank you, Joe. That is the point I was making: That ALL 1964 water pump inlets and radiator outlets are on the driver's (left) side, not just A/C cars.
The OP had said he was having trouble finding the correct radiator, and ClassicMuscle442 said, "Same radiator as a '65 Cutlass/442, probably earlier ones too." which is not the case. The '65 has the lower hose on the right, the '64 has it on the left.

- Eric