403 oil dipstick question
#1
403 oil dipstick question
question to the forum. Should the oil dipstick be replaced?
We may install headers. before we get to far ahead on assembly i want to know what to do with the oil dipstick.
Planning in advance...
TIA
Nic
We may install headers. before we get to far ahead on assembly i want to know what to do with the oil dipstick.
Planning in advance...
TIA
Nic
#5
I'm thinking it depends upon how you try to remove it. Grab the end and wiggle and it will likely break, so another method needs to be employed. Unfortunately, I have no recommendations as I have never removed an unbroken one from the top.
#7
Is the engine in the car ? If so your best bet is to hit it with deep creep . Grab a small block of wood and tap the dip stick down to "shock" the rust loose a little bit then try to wiggle it out a bit . Tap it and repeat. you dont want to hammer on it just tap it enough to break the rust loose. The wheight of a 3lb sledge and a very very light swing should be enough. There is not way to get headers in with out removing it in my exprience. I belive there is a method to get the stem out if it breaks. I think member Joe padovano has mentioned it before.
#9
Best bet is to tap it a bit top towards bottom lightly to shock the rust loose then wiggle it out in a star formation .I took mine out yesterday and I crimped it because it fit loose so getting it out was not easy but steady work and not overpowering it should do it.
#10
factory suggests clamping a bolt in the top and slide/ hammering upward on the vice grips. If you have the starter out of the way, you can tap upwards easily on the vice grips.
extraction vs breakage I have found depends a lot on how rusty the tube is- right next to the manifold. CA cars, I pulled many a tube easily. MI cars, mostly they break off.
To reduce the tightness of the fit some folks say file the bulges
I say do not remove metal, but tap the bulges ever so gently round and round on an anvil and check the fit a lot and shoot for finger press fit on the first bulge and light tap fit on the 2nd bulge. Use sealer like "form a gasket" when you install it.
One car I did that had headers the engine was in/out a lot so I drilled and tapped and put a set screw between the bulges on the tube. Sealer upon install of course.
extraction vs breakage I have found depends a lot on how rusty the tube is- right next to the manifold. CA cars, I pulled many a tube easily. MI cars, mostly they break off.
To reduce the tightness of the fit some folks say file the bulges
I say do not remove metal, but tap the bulges ever so gently round and round on an anvil and check the fit a lot and shoot for finger press fit on the first bulge and light tap fit on the 2nd bulge. Use sealer like "form a gasket" when you install it.
One car I did that had headers the engine was in/out a lot so I drilled and tapped and put a set screw between the bulges on the tube. Sealer upon install of course.
Last edited by Octania; May 17th, 2015 at 01:37 PM.
#11
starter is still on the engine but the starter will have to be removed to get wrapped for the headers anyway.
I like the bolt idea along with vice grips and slide hammer.
the tube is rusty at the manifold area but caked with oil further down by the block.
I like the bolt idea along with vice grips and slide hammer.
the tube is rusty at the manifold area but caked with oil further down by the block.
#12
alright we went after the dipstick and it broke into two pieces, at the manifold and at the block.
so does anyone have any ideas for this deal?
found a thread...good stuff
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tick-tube.html
so does anyone have any ideas for this deal?
found a thread...good stuff
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tick-tube.html
Last edited by alacran; May 16th, 2015 at 04:37 PM.
#14
You can get them to fit tight if you put the taper that is suppoused to fit tight in the block and oblong it by putting it on a vice and just tightening a little bit. I did that with mine and It worked well. No leaks.
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