question to the forum. Should the oil dipstick be replaced?

We may install headers. before we get to far ahead on assembly i want to know what to do with the oil dipstick.

Planning in advance...

TIA
Nic

 

If it's not broken, no. When installing headers, you may need to remove the dipstick and the tube. But if you don't brake it while removing it, you can just re-use it.

 

ok, what is the chance that it will break upon removal? I am thinking it will break the instant we try to pull it out.

 

50/50. It's hard to say. On my 350 I was able to pull it out, it was PIA.

 

I'm thinking it depends upon how you try to remove it. Grab the end and wiggle and it will likely break, so another method needs to be employed. Unfortunately, I have no recommendations as I have never removed an unbroken one from the top.

 

Well, we want to try removing the dipstick tube so information, do's and dont's, would be helpful

 

Is the engine in the car ? If so your best bet is to hit it with deep creep . Grab a small block of wood and tap the dip stick down to "shock" the rust loose a little bit then try to wiggle it out a bit . Tap it and repeat. you dont want to hammer on it just tap it enough to break the rust loose. The wheight of a 3lb sledge and a very very light swing should be enough. There is not way to get headers in with out removing it in my exprience. I belive there is a method to get the stem out if it breaks. I think member Joe padovano has mentioned it before.

 

yes the engine is still in the car.

 

Best bet is to tap it a bit top towards bottom lightly to shock the rust loose then wiggle it out in a star formation .I took mine out yesterday and I crimped it because it fit loose so getting it out was not easy but steady work and not overpowering it should do it.

 

factory suggests clamping a bolt in the top and slide/ hammering upward on the vice grips. If you have the starter out of the way, you can tap upwards easily on the vice grips.

extraction vs breakage I have found depends a lot on how rusty the tube is- right next to the manifold. CA cars, I pulled many a tube easily. MI cars, mostly they break off.

To reduce the tightness of the fit some folks say file the bulges
I say do not remove metal, but tap the bulges ever so gently round and round on an anvil and check the fit a lot and shoot for finger press fit on the first bulge and light tap fit on the 2nd bulge. Use sealer like "form a gasket" when you install it.

One car I did that had headers the engine was in/out a lot so I drilled and tapped and put a set screw between the bulges on the tube. Sealer upon install of course.

 

starter is still on the engine but the starter will have to be removed to get wrapped for the headers anyway.

I like the bolt idea along with vice grips and slide hammer.

the tube is rusty at the manifold area but caked with oil further down by the block.

 

alright we went after the dipstick and it broke into two pieces, at the manifold and at the block.

so does anyone have any ideas for this deal?

found a thread...good stuff
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tick-tube.html

 

The screw with vice grips or slide hammer has worked numerous times for me. Be warned the chrome replacements need the end ground and don't fit tight in the block.

 

You can get them to fit tight if you put the taper that is suppoused to fit tight in the block and oblong it by putting it on a vice and just tightening a little bit. I did that with mine and It worked well. No leaks.