acavagnaro

Hello and thanks in advance for any help. I have a '69 350 with approximately 80k miles and I'm in the process of changing the timing chain. Everything is coming apart well and the nylon covered cam sprocket is in great condition. No broken teeth and no evidence of stress cracks. However, the original chain is stretched and slack on the non-drive side.
I'm going to rent a balancer installation tool but my question is in regards to installing the new crank sprocket. I haven't gotten the original sprocket pulled yet but I expect the new sprocket to not simply 'slip on' the nose of the crank. What do I need to install the new crank sprocket?

joe_padavano

I've found that it's a light pull with a two jaw gear puller. If you can get the key out first, that helps, but that is often difficult to do.

acavagnaro

Thanks. I was able to get the original sprocket off with a 2-jaw puller but my question was more in regards to how I install the new sprocket. What tools are needed to push it on? Also, the CSM says to install the sprocket and then the key with a brass hammer. Seems like it will be extremely difficult to get the key slot properly aligned doing it that way.

joe_padavano

It's really not that hard. I've done a lot of them.

Yellowstatue

Start the sprocket on the crank and then use a socket larger than the crank end to tap the sprocket in place. Chamfer the end of the key to help it start in.

Dynoking

I have replaced many timing sets over the years and never had a problem with a tight fitting sprocket. If your sprocket is too tight you can try this: Wash the new sprocket with dish washing soap to remove any residue. Wrap the sprocket in aluminum foil and warm it in a oven for an hour at 200' F. It should slip on nicely.

acavagnaro

Thanks for all the replies. Figured I'd post the resolution for others who can benefit from it in the future. I put the sprocket in the oven at 300F for 15 minutes. Slipped on all the way to the bulkhead with no effort. I had the installation tool at the ready but didn't even need it. Piece of cake.
Definitely not looking forward to putting the front cover back on. I took out the first 3 bolts on the oil pan on both sides and plan on wedging a screwdriver on each side to open the gap a little. I'll get it but it's likely gonna be a bit of a battle.

Fun71

Yeah, that is a pain. In the past I have trimmed the front oil pan seal that sits in the groove, then used silicone RTV as a lubricant to assist in popping the cover over the front of the oil pan.