Intragration

Sockets, open-end wrenches... I had the same A-arms in the way. It IS possible. Just takes a little creativity. Keep looking at it and trying tools.

Olds1971

I got the Old frame pads off finally. Now how do I know which holes to put the new ones on? I looked at your previous picture but I couldnt tell much which holes they were exactly

Intragration

Try these. Look at the relationship to the other holes that aren't used, this shows you exactly where they're supposed to be. Note that there is a left and right pad, make sure you put them on the correct side and the correct orientation. Use new grade 8 hardware if possible, and locking.

Olds1971

Well the motor is in and motor mounts bolted. Didnt go in as easy as I wanted but its in after all. I cracked the a/c box which isnt a big deal and had to touch up a couple spots. The trans mount will need redone once I get it running. Im down to drive shaft, the radiator and hoses, I still have to put my exhaust manifolds on. and the new steering line. and wiring. I think I have it all ready till here... So the wires I have cut that I dont know what they go to.. Will they all be hot wires? And I know some I think was to gauges? Im just not sure exactly I know a junk yard that has this car and stock motor.. Would It be wise to go check it out or do you think we can get it figured out? Thanks again for everything

Intragration

Sweet, good job! We'll be able to figure it out. You still have the ends, right? I think I asked before but I don't remember. One or two heavy-gauge red wires go the hot terminal on the starter for power to the interior, these have fusible links. The purple wire goes to the start terminal on the starter. The red or pink wire with the plastic connector goes to power on the HEI. The brown wire goes to the alternator, and then you have the connections from the battery to the starter and either the battery or the starter to the alternator, and battery ground to engine and chassis. You also need a ground strap to the engine from the firewall. And don't forget the red wire from the fan high relay to the hot terminal on the starter. That's about it.

Intragration

Ok, here's a little diagram I did of the most basic engine wiring. Nothing for gauges or idiot lights, you're on your own there. This should be everything you need to get the car running.

Olds1971

The fuseable links.. What amp usually go here? and where it says (v6) and (v8) what does that exactly mean? or does it not change

Intragration

Fusible links are just wires that are thinner than the rest of the wire, not actual fuses. They are supposed to be two wire sizes smaller than the wire they protect, and they are made with a special insulator that won't melt. The concept is the same as with fuses, that they will melt open if there is a current overload. You make fusible links out of fusible link wire. I'm not sure what size those wires are, but for example, if they're 12 gauge, then you'd use 16 gauge fusible link wires. I have always reused factory fusible links, except when I've replaced entire harnesses.

The V6 and V8 motors were wired slightly differently. I don't think it's a huge deal to wire your motor one way or the other. You could just use the factory wires and keep it as-is, or you could rewire it the way the V8s were wired. The only things I could figure were that maybe the various divisions had different methods of wiring their motors, or maybe there was a reason with the V8s specifically to run the alternator through the fusible link. Unless someone can give a specific reason for doing it one way or the other, I continue to think that either way will work fine.

Olds1971

Today hopefully I will have things finished I have been working on this outside and its only 29 degrees here. Verrryyy cold.. I got the wire and everything I need.. I was going to ask you how do the stock power wire from starter to battery run so it doesnt get against the exhaust manifold? And next on the passenger side there is this plate that goes over the manifold for heat to the breather is this needed? I left the manifolds off till I put it in the car and it would be a very tight fit with it..


Also Where does the kick down cable go to on this two barrel??? And in your diagram for the altinator? Is the brown wire the plug that it goes into?? and where is the hot wire to the high fan relay

Intragration

I'm not exactly sure how the main battery wire ran on the G-bodies. I'm pretty sure on the older cars, it ran all the way up the fender, across the firewall, and down to the starter. On mine, I ran it right to the front corner of the block, alongside it, and right to the starter. When I did this, I also put some of that plastic wire cover around it, and also a couple spark plug heat wraps. Here are a couple pictures of what I did.

The heat shield on the passenger side would be to feed the warm air intake on a stock air cleaner. If you're using a stock cleaner, then you can put the shield on and set it up to work. If you're just using an open-element filter, then you might as well just leave it off.

I don't know exactly where the kickdown would go on your carb, you're going to need to look at it and maybe dig up some diagrams of other two barrels to see how they did it. There may be a spot where you can install a pin to mount it. You can run without it temporarily, it won't hurt anything, you just won't have kickdown.

On the alternator, here's a picture to give you an idea of what I did. As I recall, I did run it down to the starter as per the V8 diagram, but I didn't run a separate wire for the red one in the plug, I just looped it over to the main connection that runs down to the starter, as per the V6 diagram. The functionality is the same. The brown wire and the red wire are together in that plug.

The blower high red wire goes between the silver relay mounted near the blower motor and the positive terminal on the starter. There was a plug mid-way between the two points, usually near the back of the block, where they were connected when the engine was installed in the car. This connector in the middle usually corroded and developed resistance, and in turn melted the connectors. Look for this wire, and when you find it, remove the bad connector and any damaged wire and replace it with a straight wire or a wire with a connector.

Olds1971

So got the wiring done and I have all the interior and everything going!!! It was a test for now... Next is the driver side exhaust, crossmember, drive shaft, radiator, and belts...

Olds1971

Well I hooked up the bare minimals to get the car for a test start. I havent hooked up the vac advanced or ground from head to firewall, or any pullies yet.. I went to start it tested spark and has great looking spark. And turns over nicely. But it wont start.. The fuel pump I dont think is working right because I just put a line into a can of gas and it wasnt still doing anything.. Next thing I sprayed starter fluid in the carb and it just back fires is that what it will do without constant gas to it..... All my wiring went really well thank you for that some wires came close to the manifold but Im hoping for far enough away for the time being. Next heres what I did.. I took #1 plug out and put a screw driver in. turned motor over until the screew driver stopped going up. The line on the harmonic balencer did line up correctly also so I knew I was right. Next I put the contact part of the router facing #1 cylinder put the cap on and wired the first plug facing the 1st cylinder as the first plug and went counter clockwise with the firing order you have gave me.... Is there anything I have done or missing that you can think of this is only for test start before I continue to bolt everything up and finished. Im thinking my carb also might need some attention I have noticed the butterfly sticks tight. Wasnt there an adj screw on the butteryfly if they were to tight??


So what reasons could there be to not firing only backfires when a little gas is poured in the carb or start fluid. Also none of the vaccums are hooked up... I was reading a forum maybe this is my problem? I just didnt know that you had to have the vaccums hooked up to test run for a second..

Olds1971

I been doing some reading.. So just putting in starter fluid could cause a backfire because its just a fast burst right and since its open air its getting more air than fuel?? I just dont know if im reading into this correctly. I hope the problem isnt a big one Im def sure its not just need to know the steps to take

Intragration

It sounds like you may have it 180 degrees off. The mark on the balancer goes past the timing mark twice, once at TDC before the power cycle, and once before the intake cycle. Generally speaking, and not accounting for a spun balancer, the piston will always be at the top of the cylinder when the timing mark is at zero. The way to tell it's the right one is that you will feel air coming out of the spark plug hole when the piston is approaching the top of the compression stroke. You need to take the spark plug out again, rotate the engine, and when you start feeling air coming out of the hole, keep going until the mark is at zero. NOW you're at TDC. Now line the rotor up with the number one terminal, and you should be good.

It should at least somewhat catch with starting fluid if you have it lined up right. The fact that it's only backfiring leads me to believe it may be off. The butterfly shouldn't be stuck shut, what happens if you operate the throttle and try to open it? The choke will tend to keep it closed, but it shouldn't be actually stuck. And if you've cranked it with the carb hooked up and you operate the throttle looking down the bore, you should see some gas shoot out.

The vacuum isn't going to be a big deal now. I don't know why you'd need to have it hooked up just for a test start. Lots of people don't hook it up at all ever, which I think is a mistake unless it's a track-only car, but there should be no problem with doing this for your initial start.

1970-W30

Mike is right, that is what the problem is, in reality though your not 180 degrees off, but a full 360 degrees off. But that's just a technicality, follow his advice and she should fire right up.......

Olds1971

Thats what it was!!!! Didnt run long of corse because of the fuel pump not working but pouring gas in it def did fire and ran!!!!! Well now its time to start making sure its all tightened up and everything is back to normal then soon it will be test drive day!!! CANT WAIT

Intragration

That's great news! Congratulations!

Olds1971

I couldnt have done any of this without you I really am thankful for all your help... I know there is still more to come till its back 100% but its def running.. My next few questions will deal with vaccums and I have a bracket for a kick down but no where to put it on if that makes since.. Also I now understand about the v6 throttle cable. mine reaches but the hole to mount it is smaller than the carb part. But a dremel can fix that.... Next thing.. Is this possible or what can happen if I do the following.. I have two exact air cleaners. I wanna combine the horns and make ram air out of them.. Anything for or against this with the two barrel.

Jefhay6814

congrats on it firing up!!!! i can't wait until the day i fire my 403 up!!!!

Olds1971

Next set of problems..... My fuel gauge now doesnt work was that part of the computer I cut out if so how do I get it back because I dont have an odometer so I have to have it... Next for awhile will my v6 radiator work the one from my 71 wont fit seems likewhen I tried it... Also can you use a three line 1971 fuel pump on this 72 two lined motor? Its getting gas to it but th carb isnt squirting any out. Car runs fine if you continuously pour gas in once you stop it stops. So maybe it has to be the carb Im not sure.. Also the one left side heat hose goes to the water pump the second hose goes where does it go on the back corner of the block that I had showed you on our second page?

1970-W30

Backyard fuel guage test, turn on key, undo wire from sending unit, guage should swing to one extreme, then ground the wire, guage should swing to the other extreme. If it doesn't then there is a problem in the wiring somewhere.
The heater other hose goes to the fitting by #8 cylinder (passenger side back corner).
You could try capping the return line on the fuel pump and unhooking line at the carb and cranking over the engine to see if you get fuel flow. This is potentially dangerous because fuel can squirt all over, so use a rag to catch it. Gas and a stray spark can be a deadly combination. Also pump isn't on upside down is it? Fittings should be on top side.
You're getting closer..........

Olds1971

Pump is on right. I cut my computer out and I think it may be why the fuel gauge has quit. Also to tend to my bad luck. I turned my key and somthing broke and now the key doesnt lock.. So I went and bought a lock cylinder and key hopefully it fixes this problem.. Good thing its not snowing yet.. All this work has been done mainly outside.

Intragration

Nope, computer has nothing to do with the fuel gauge. Did you get the power lines to the interior on the driver's side harness hooked up to the starter? Do any lights come on in bulb test? Check your gauges fuse.

The V6 radiator should work, but you're definitely going to want a temp gauge to monitor it.

Yes, the right heater core fitting goes to the heater control valve on the back of the intake, there is a specific curved hose for this, you can ask for one for a V8 G-body.

I'm not sure on the fuel pump, I put on a 2-port pump, I believe this is the non-AC. One of those fittings on yours should be a return. You could probably plug it with a plug and a clamp, but you might be better off to replace the pump. It wasn't that expensive, about $30.

You had asked about kickdown, I'm going to be addressing this shortly with my QuadraJet. My '70 QJet didn't have a kickdown provision, so I'm going to have to fab one up. I'm going to cut a piece of metal, connect it to the throttle bracket on the carb, and attach a kickdown stud. Edelbrock makes one, it's part number 8018, they had it at Autozone. Here's a diagram of my plan, this might help you.

Olds1971

Everything comes on in interior when you turn key my lights come on like the seat belt, check engine all those on the right.. Even my dash lights work. This is weird cause it did work.. Ill check my fuses to make sure there all good. Do you happen to know if its your lock key cylinder if you can turn your key and it turns freely like it doesnt stop to turn it over and you cant click it into accesory? Also if its running and you know fuel is getting up but the carb doesnt squirt any out is that your float stuck? I also noticed a ground strap from back on trans to a piece of metal is this needed?

Intragration

Sounds like there's something up with your lock cylinder. You might want to do a search, I haven't had any problems with this.

When was the last time the motor was running? It could be a lot of different things. I am unfortunately not a carb guru, but I might be closer after I rebuild my QuadraJet. I'd think about a rebuild kit or a rebuilt carburetor.

The ground strap on the trans was probably to assure a good ground for the lock-up. If you're not using this, you can probably leave it off.

Olds1971

I changed the lock cylinder and it wasnt it... So something prolly in the column. The motor last ran about 5 months about prolly. I will get the carb rebuilt or rebuild it myself and soon for taxes im getting a intake and a four barrel. Those I have rebuilt myself the one from the 71 cutlass. Its horrible now that everything is going I cant start it go figure right? I think my car doesnt want it haha