smparr

Is there some secret to getting the power steering pump to slide far enough left to replace the belt on a 307? Everytime I get close the pump reservoir hits up against the curve in the bracket where it attaches to the engine. It won't move far enough to remove the belt.

BillK

Do you possibly heave the incorrect belt on now ? I have changed the belts on the 307 in my Wife's Riviera at least twice over the years and don't remember having a problem.

olds 307 and 403

Exactly, I have changed many belts over the years on the 307. Take a pic and show us the issue.

RetroRanger

Iirc theres three bolts you need to loosen. One is down low in the back and may be covered w grease and not easily visible.

69HO43

What year? Body style?

Dual groove PS pulleys incorporated a longer (.38" x 55.5") alternator belt playing along with the PS pump and crank.

According to GMSPO, the typical correct belt size for the single groove PS VIN Y (assuming A/C) and early VIN 9 is either .38" x 44.50" or .44" x 44.50" depending on options. So 44.5" long (nominal) is what you're likely going to need.

If it appears your belt can accomodate a slightly longer belt and still tighten it, then try it. Say, at least 1/2" longer than what you got. Or do it the easier way. Post up the year, model, and whether A/C and/or Heavy Duty Cooling, electric defogger, and we can probably get you the right belt size from GMSPO.

smparr

It's a 1990 Custom Cruiser with AC. I have all three new belts but the old PS belt is refusing to loosen enough to come off. The only bolt the shop manual shows is one through a pulley hole attached to the slide bracket. I can get the AC/AIR and alternator belts loose no problem, but I can't get the AC/AIR belt all the way out because of the PS. I know cutting is an option but what if the new belt has the same problem?

BillK

Can you see a number on the belt you have on it now ? I try and take a look at mine this weekend but it might be different because of the year and the fact that it is in a Riviera.

69HO43

You say you have all new belts? What brand and p/n of new belt do you have for the PS belt?

From what I can ascertain, you likely have a single groove PS pulley and a single belt from the water pump to the alternator. You mentioned 3 belts, so assuming you have the A/C and A.I.R. pump powered from the same belt (7/16"x58.5" or 59.0"). Anyway, your original PS belt was a 3/8" or 7/16" x 44.5" belt, regardless, per the parts information. You can add a bit of room by getting a 3/8" or 7/16" x 45" or 45.5" belt. Just a suggestion.

It's weird because depending on rear gear options, you could possibly get two different setups. Dual groove PS pump pulleys use a 3/8" x 45" and the OTC replacement from GM was 7/16" x 45.5". And the water pump pulley has all 3 grooves the same diameter. I think the person who made up the application chart was drunk when they assembled it. There's 3 pages of LV2 307 belt applications.

If you're having other interference, you'll need to determine as to why. You CAN do an alternative to cutting and that's going to be taking out the bolts on the crank pulley (1/2" IIRC?) and pulling it off the balancer, or wedge thing, whatever's behind that crank pulley. If all the belts are loose, you can do it that way as a last resort instead of jacking around with the PS pump. You can skin this cat 30 different ways, that's up to you.

smparr

I looked at the picture under pump removal in the shop manual instead of belt adjustment. There is another slide bolt hidden under the pulley at the bottom of the pump. I'm not able to get to the car right now but hopefully that gives me more adjustment.

joe_padavano

I should just make this a sticky...

And yeah, this is about tensioning, but the same three fasteners need to be loosened first.

There are THREE fasteners that you need to loosen to adjust the belt, the two bolts on the front and the one nut at the bottom rear of the pump. Once you loosen all three, use a large screwdriver as a pry bar and insert it between the nose of the pump and the tab on the bracket, between the pulley and the bracket. The photo shows the proper position of the screwdriver with the pulley removed for clarity. Use the screwdriver to tension the belt while tightening the two bolts on the front, then get the nut on the back. Failure to do this properly is why there are frequent posts about belts squealing.

smparr

Thanks Joe, that picture is awesome!

smparr

Replaced all the belts and the tapping noise is gone. Thanks for all your help.

69HO43

So you left out the story of how you got the belt off/new belt on....just curious if you had to improvise with belt sizes or it was just a matter of loosening the pump properly?

smparr

I ended up cutting the PS belt and loosening the two bolts in the front through the pulley. The new NAPA belt went right on and was easy to tighten back in. It's not easy to get a screwdriver to that tab though, it has to be really skinny.