hey guys. i have a 1953 olds rocket build in progress. it has .030 over pistons and new stock lift cam. the cyl. heads rebuilt. i want to get the most power out of this with reasonable $$$$. the heads are bare. i'm thinking roller rockers, roller lifters, custom headers/dual exhaust/cherry bombs. i dont have the 4 bbl. carb. yet.
if anyone out there with experience with these engines could help me out, that would be great. i'm putting this in an original 53 super88.
thanks alot, dan

 

http://rossracingengines.com/ might be able to help, they specialize in these engines, along with the 324, 371, 394.

 

You want roller lifters on a stock 303 cam? I don't think so........

 

You will spend a lot of money for not much gain, 303's can be made to run strong but for strong money and you need to plan your build from the ground up. Ross Racing can be your best adviser (Kevin). The hydros in the 53 aren't as strong as the 54-56 slant pan hydros, if you get to your HP dreams you might want to swap transmissions because it won't last long if abused.

If it were mine I would look for a good 371 core and build from there, 300 hp to start with and it should be a near bolt in. With a little cosmetic work it could be made to look as a stock 303 ,Quite a sleeper. Just my thoughts... Lost in the fifties ..Tedd

 

I couldn't stop laughing at this! Look at some of the prices for these things then get back to us

 

Nothing cheap about a 303, 324, or 371 build. But they the the prettiest looking and sounding Olds engines on the planet when done right. Of course this is just my opinion.

 

Hi Dan - The roller stuff won't get you too much in your use, so my suggestion is forget that and concentrate on what yields the best return for money spent. The biggest single inhibiting factor with 1949-53 Oldsmobile 303 for high performance is the very low static compression ratio. C.R. is food and drink to a modern OHV V-8. 10:1 isn't too much in my opinion, and very little else in permanent improvements will get you as much in the seat of your pants like bumping the static C.R. will. I read you already have pistons, let me warn you against milling heads and deck to try to raise C.R., you don't gain much for what you stand to lose. Some light amount of milling is good as the lifter preload on these is usually pretty light for any hydraulic camshaft, and they want to tick when hot when you have lifter plunger preload of about .030 or less assuming stock camshaft base circle O.D., you get some needed apparent pushrod length in a light head mill, which also then compensates for the increased thickness of today's metalbestos head gaskets. Approching one horsepower per CI of displacement is pretty easy to attain as long as you set aside the worry about what you pay for fuel. All of the other already well known methods get you a lot with this engine. Make sure the distributor is right, mech advance all in by about 2000rpm. Mine like 14° lead even in the hottest weather, still start but sometimes reluctantly (only when others are watching ;-(- ). Very little else in ignition assuming 12V of course gets you as much as a MSD-6A, and you can hide it if you don't want the modern look under the hood. AC R-43 or -44 plugs will be close. Clean up valve bowls, match ports, good dual exhaust. Get one of the double-roller timing sets Ross Racing offers, its a big improvement over even NOS morse chain examples, but it is a bit noisy especially at idle. Adequate fuel supply meaning a switched quality electric pump pushing through the stock pump perhaps for high performance or hot days. A stock Rochester or Carter four barrel on a iron intake is fine, just remember you are not going to 'the Nationals'.

The single biggest thing against any year Hydra-Matic is the cork frictions stock units use in the clutch packs. Cork frictions belong in one place today, in the wastebasket. Most of what made a B&M or any hopped H-M much more reliable in this use involves using Raybestos type waffle cut frictions, which used to be expensive and special order. Today these and the ruddy red solid types are all you can get, thankfully. Fatsco has Raybestos type, Northwest has the red, both work well in my experience.

P.S. If by slim chance your 1953 engine has a four counterweight crankshaft, I would love a pic of it. Thx

 

Any update on this build?

 

hi all. thanks for all the great info. as usual, LIFE got in the way..............health and $$$...........i'm sure no one else has had any of these problems. LOL.......i haven't given up hope. the olds WILL live again......next year..........she is parked high and dry, waiting patiently................so stay tuned, i will be back after these messages................