just bought this 3 row top plate for an AC car; see holes to attache shroud 9.75"

current 3 row top plate; no ac car; 13"

new plate over old plate; matched up to row of 4 bolts on sill

a little short
good morning,
First off, Ive gotten great feedback in these forums on my way to have my car run cooler in traffic and I thank you all.
I have a ( worked) non-AC 350cu in my Cutlass S\442.
I just replaced my ( shot) fan clutch with a Hayden HD thermo clutch; I have a long water pump and the HD 6 blade 19.5" fan. I also have a 3 row Champion C161 aluminum radiator that was a Direct Fit replacement for the original. The front of the fan clutch is approx 1.25" from the radiator fins which i think is optimum placement.
......and now I am thinking of adding a shroud to this non-AC car hoping that I'll have clearance all over. Was told by Joe P that the 19.5" fan is ok ( has 3.5: inch pitch ( aluminum blades)
I ordered a 3 row radiator top plate; but it does not line up ( see pictures) the new plate sits on top of the one in car; i lined up the 4 bolts and it looks way short. No way the shroud is fitting here.
Should I just drill the 2 holes in my existing non-ac plate? will it fit? was I sent the wrong 3-row top plate? I'm in home stretch to get er done for a May 5th show

new 3 row plate on top of one in car too short to over radiator....why?
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THESE PICS ARE BETTER; Can someone explain what is wrong and the part I really need?
Current radiator top plate for 3 row non-AC car ( no holes to bolt top of shroud to); 13" from front to back;
a "new" ( cause I just bought it) original 3 row AC car top plate: only 9.5" from front to back& doesn't even reach enough to cover the radiator

 

I'd drill the current top plate and look for a car with an OEM 4-row plate while you're at the show - if you find one, photo it and compare the bolt holes to see if maybe that's what you need

 

Thanks for getting back to me. Yeah, I'll probably drill the holes for now but keep searching or the correct top
plate. You mentioned looking for a 4row top plate.
Why when I have a 3 row radiator?

 

The top plate for a three row radiator with shroud for 1972 is P/N 407116. The current longer top plate angles the radiator back at the top. If you modify it to accept the shroud, the shroud will be angled and may not clear the fan. Ideally the fan should be positioned in the shroud so that the tips of the blades are just even with the rear edge of the shroud.

 

HI Joe, Thank you for the Part #.
As for the current "longer" non-shroud top plate in my car now, you mentioned it angles the radiator "back' ( you mean top of rad. towards the motor?)
the radiator looks perfectly straight top to bottom in the car now.

also good to know...: right now it has no shroud, a brand new Hayden fan clutch and the front of the fan clutch is 1.25" away from the radiator fins; there's also a long water pump in the car as well as a 6 blade HD fan (factory, with aluminum blades)
i really want to add a shroud, if possible to keep her cool in traffic

 

hi Joe
one more thing I read from someone in this forum with a lot of posts:

According to the GM Parts Manual, the rad top plate is the same for 71/72 Cutlass models. ref: Group 1.270 part 407116 all cars EXCEPT Y72 - Heavy Duty cooling.

i had mentioned that when my 350 was modified, it now has the long water pump, & 6 blade HD fan; isnt this comparable to the Y72 option? correct shroud still P\N 407116?

 

The only thing the top plate cares about is the thickness of the radiator. If you have a three row radiator you need the '116 top plate.

 

Thanks Joe!

 

HI Joe

any idea if there is a place \ store online to find this part? P/N 407116
Nothing on Ebay or the usual parts websites showing this. All that pops up is the 4 row

 

HI Joe,
this sound right in adding a shroud to my 72 non ac 350?
current 3 row is held in place with a non ac top plate that is 12.5" front to back. I read that this ( 12.5") is because the radiator is slightly tilted back ( (towards motor) on top for " corralling" better airflow to motor
Now If I add the shroud, and the correct top plate (10.5" front to back); which means i have to "straighten up" the top of my radiator so it bolts up. This will provide a flat, straight radiator to attach the shroud flat so the fan blades don't hit it.
if this is correct; will I have an issue with the 2 metal trans-cooler lines ? (1 located mid radiator (currently bent with room to have some give) ; the other 1 is at the bottom of the radiator which should not move in any of this.