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Just got the engine on the stand and did a little bit today. Mainly drained the oil and started removing some disposable parts like the fuel pump.
As I reread what was said above, I was thinking about how much power I want out of it. My goal is to get as close to 300lb-ft of torque as I can get and somewhere near 200hp. I'm going by SAE net figures of the era. I'm really interested in keeping the CCC and Q-jet carb, especially because I've learned a lot about what they can do for the car and I'd like them to stay aboard. I'm planning on an Edelbrock 3177 intake and better flowing exhaust.
With those mods alone, could I get where I want? If not, what else do you think I would need?
If the motor is in good shape, richer secondary rods and dual exhaust should get 200 hp and 300 ft/lbs. Add at least a big trans cooler to the 2004R trans.
All I did on my 89 Custom Cruiser was eliminate the cat and fab up a single 2 1/2" system and my reward was a lot of pinging. What 307/403 says about an aggressive advance curve on that CCC setup is really believable. The source of the problem is the positive backpressure EGR valve on these engines when you longer have any back pressure. I just went to a 1975 spec EGR valve which just works the old fashion way: simple vacuum. I wonder if the stock compression on the 71 2bbl engine is really higher than the 307 being replaced. Of course a cam change could lower the effective compression. 307/403 seems to have ideas on that subject. I am using a Standard Motor Products EGV326 valve with the #34 reducing washer. This valve includes a bunch of different washers to change the flow, so your deal might require a different washer. I also put a .015 restrictor in the vac line to slow down the opening event. My main point here is that you probably will not be eliminating the EGR.
Don't forget you will need a place for the Oxygen Sensor.
If the motor is in good shape, richer secondary rods and dual exhaust should get 200 hp and 300 ft/lbs. Add at least a big trans cooler to the 2004R trans.
I'm pretty sure my car comes with trans cooler lines as I remember seeing metal lines going to the trans. Is this a Cadillac/B-body exclusive thing or are these not what you mean and I definitely need to add them? Either way I definitely want proper cooling if I'm going to be adding more power to the drivetrain. I'm hearing from friends that the 200R4 should be swapped out for a 700R4 from a Chevy of the era. I had an '84 Chevy K10 pickup (350 engine) a few years ago with that trans and I've heard they're stronger. Is that what I should do or will the stock 200 trans do just fine with a little bit of help?
Originally Posted by Hammerdrop
All I did on my 89 Custom Cruiser was eliminate the cat and fab up a single 2 1/2" system and my reward was a lot of pinging. What 307/403 says about an aggressive advance curve on that CCC setup is really believable. The source of the problem is the positive backpressure EGR valve on these engines when you longer have any back pressure. I just went to a 1975 spec EGR valve which just works the old fashion way: simple vacuum. I wonder if the stock compression on the 71 2bbl engine is really higher than the 307 being replaced. Of course a cam change could lower the effective compression. 307/403 seems to have ideas on that subject. I am using a Standard Motor Products EGV326 valve with the #34 reducing washer. This valve includes a bunch of different washers to change the flow, so your deal might require a different washer. I also put a .015 restrictor in the vac line to slow down the opening event. My main point here is that you probably will not be eliminating the EGR.
Don't forget you will need a place for the Oxygen Sensor.
Definitely. Whatever exhaust ends up going on will definitely have a place for the O2 since the ECM will cry rivers without one. I've heard a lot about replacing the cam out of the '69 Olds 350 and I intend to follow that advice, but I'd like to learn a little more about the subject. I'll admit I'm not to keen on cam shafts and what exactly they do. Also, I'd like to know why I'd need a different kind and what the differences would be from the stock 307/stock 350 cams, and whatever I should be using for this build to maintain the CCC system. Maybe someone could educate me?
Last edited by rustbukt307; May 2nd, 2019 at 10:36 AM.
The 700R4/4L60-70E is no prize either. In the best form the 3-4 clutch packs still fail towing. You can add something like a Transgo or CK Performance shift kit and servo for your 2004R. Also check the stator shaft on the pump, the splines wear out often. Also something like a D5 replacement(H/O,442) 2000 stall lock up converter will help launch. I am talking a big auxiliary add on plate style trans cooler. You should have around 9 to 1 compression. My 9 to 1 Olds 350 with a 214/214 cam allowed mid 50's timing no problem without EGR. I go with a least something like the Lunati High Efficiency 207/207 .461/.461 112 LSA. Or the 204/214 .448/.472 , either 112 or 114 LSA is available. You need at least a 112 LSA(lobe separation angle) or higher. Otherwise it will cause issues with the CCC system. Also around 215 duration max is a good idea for the same reason. Go with the EGR valve suggested by hammer drop.
May 1st, 2019, 07:13 PM
