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Ok, I think I'm going to hold off on those inner fenders for now because I'd rather get it out of the garage and try my luck with the pressure washer. It does seem like a lot (and I mean a lot) of elbow grease is needed and that energy I can put into something else right now.
Something I didn't give any thought about until last night was that the outer fender trim pieces are missing. There are mudflaps on the car and those most likely got in the way. Wondering how hard it is to find this trim. I'm assuming that these cars all came with it.
Put in a request from Kurt Shubert to find out if he has a further breakdown on the 367 W-30s built in October 1969, as in weekly numbers. I doubt it, but figured it was worth a shot. Not even sure if he is still reachable at the email I sent.
Kurt did get back with me and sent me the full monthly breakdown chart. It was nice of him to do so, but he wasn't able to provide any weekly data.
I haven't had a chance to work on the car lately. Was planning a weekend trip up to PA to get the F-85, but it will have to wait because my one son is sick.
Anyone have any info on those outer fender trim pieces? How do you think the car looks without them? I will probably remove the mudflaps soon. The driver's side front is missing anyway.
Ok, my wife just got back from a trip up north. While at her mom's, a friend of the family stopped by and told her that they have the other rear end gears to the car that were mentioned to us previously. They are either the 3.91 or 4.33.
Now if they are the 3.91 and original to the car, I (of course) want them...however would there be any reason for me to get the 4.33 if that's what they have in their possession? My wife couldn't remember which rear gear they said is currently in the car, although it is a 3.91 factory setup.
Anyone have an opinion on the gears in my last post? I'm not even sure if these would be date coded anyway so it may not matter for the 4.33s.
I wonder how many of the for sale 3.91 axle stamped cars actually have one of the "dealer installed" gears in and the new owner doesn't know because someone did it previously. I would guess at highway speeds it would be pretty easy to tell though. But these cars don't always come with a test drive.
I think it is always beneficial to get everything that came with a car, even if you do not plan to use it. 4:33's mean highway driving will be a chore.
Ok, I think I'm going to hold off on those inner fenders for now because I'd rather get it out of the garage and try my luck with the pressure washer. It does seem like a lot (and I mean a lot) of elbow grease is needed and that energy I can put into something else right now.
Something I didn't give any thought about until last night was that the outer fender trim pieces are missing. There are mudflaps on the car and those most likely got in the way. Wondering how hard it is to find this trim. I'm assuming that these cars all came with it.
Put in a request from Kurt Shubert to find out if he has a further breakdown on the 367 W-30s built in October 1969, as in weekly numbers. I doubt it, but figured it was worth a shot. Not even sure if he is still reachable at the email I sent.
My 70 w-30 4 speed was built in October. Invoice is dated 11-3-69. Cowl tag 10C
My 70 w-30 4 speed was built in October. Invoice is dated 11-3-69. Cowl tag 10C
I guess you don't have a broadcast card for it, otherwise you would have mentioned it. Do you have any pics of the car, I'd be interested in seeing it. Especially if it doesn't have a console. Or maybe it does...
My car is bench seat equipped. Original owner said he always ordered bench seats so he could keep the honeys closer while he shifted. I have not torn the car apart for a broadcast card as I know what it is with the invoice and window sticker. Being close with the original owner helps too)park.jpgw-30003.jpg
My car is bench seat equipped. Original owner said he always ordered bench seats so he could keep the honeys closer while he shifted. I have not torn the car apart for a broadcast card as I know what it is with the invoice and window sticker. Being close with the original owner helps too)
Love the wheels and the bench seat. I've never seen one with a bench before.
Tonight I did some yard work and finally emptied the old gas tank. I just had it sitting in the shed, but I figured with it getting warmer it was time to get the gas out. Let me tell you...you really can't pour it out of the filler neck like I thought you would be able to. Or the vent lines either. So I pulled the sending unit from the tank and siphoned it out with my handy dandy Harbor Freight suctioning device. Can't beat those things. I probably got about a gallon out of it, maybe a little less. Was brownish in color, but really a medium amber. Not as terrible as it could have been.
Inside the tank I will need to get a better look. I've been thinking of just taking it to a shop down the road and they probably have one of those inspection cameras to take a peek. Plus they would be able to comment on how it looks. I have a new Spectra tank, but if this one was actually fine to reuse, then I will do it. How many can say they have the original tank on their car, especially a PA car?
How many can say they have the original tank on their car, especially a PA car?
Me, though my car's not from PA. Don't be too quick to give up on your tank. I was amazed at how clean the inside of mine was. Just the same, I took it to a radiator shop to have them "boil it out," whatever that is. I figured the process would help remove some of the gunk which had accumulated on top of the lip. I was wrong, even after a second pass. At the end of the day, I just wire-brushed the lip and used a rust eater on the minor exterior surface rust. Good as new, inside and out. Then I shot it with a clear engine enamel to keep it looking that way.
Me, though my car's not from PA. Don't be too quick to give up on your tank. I was amazed at how clean the inside of mine was. Just the same, I took it to a radiator shop to have them "boil it out," whatever that is. I figured the process would help remove some of the gunk which had accumulated on top of the lip. I was wrong, even after a second pass. At the end of the day, I just wire-brushed the lip and used a rust eater on the minor exterior surface rust. Good as new, inside and out. Then I shot it with a clear engine enamel to keep it looking that way.
Good advice. I will see what I can do with it soon. I have it sitting outside with the nice weather trying to dry it out some. Sending unit looked really good. But then it has been enclosed all those years. The replacement Spectra makes just doesn't look as beefy.
Don't forget keeping your original gas tank allows you to have the date code of the tank, something that doesn't seem to be promoted much in the restorations I have read about on this site. The first number I believe is the plant and the rest is the date.
Don't forget keeping your original gas tank allows you to have the date code of the tank, something that doesn't seem to be promoted much in the restorations I have read about on this site. The first number I believe is the plant and the rest is the date.
Good point. I didn't even think of that. I will find out what it is and post a pic.
You may also find a date code for the raw sheet steel stamped in ink (along with the manufacturer's name, like USS). Unfortunately, I had to give this up if I wanted to remove the light surface rust. Doesn't bother me too much, since it just happened to be stamped on top of the tank, not underneath, so no one can see it anyway.
Was just outside for the past 4 hours working on our pool and getting it in good shape. Forgot to look at the tank, but I will tomorrow. How long should I keep this outside to air out? It still smelled like gas pretty good around noon.
Don't forget keeping your original gas tank allows you to have the date code of the tank, something that doesn't seem to be promoted much in the restorations I have read about on this site. The first number I believe is the plant and the rest is the date.
Can you tell me where exactly this is found on the tank. I didn't have any luck finding any codes last night.
The embossed dates are on the bottom of the tank towards the front of the car. Maybe they didn't always do it, but both of my 71s have the dates stamped in the metal as indicated in the picture I attached. In both cases the dates of the tanks coincide with the build dates of the cars.
The embossed dates are on the bottom of the tank towards the front of the car. Maybe they didn't always do it, but both of my 71s have the dates stamped in the metal as indicated in the picture I attached. In both cases the dates of the tanks coincide with the build dates of the cars.
Thanks for the fast reply. I will check it out at lunch and get some pics.
The embossed dates are on the bottom of the tank towards the front of the car. Maybe they didn't always do it, but both of my 71s have the dates stamped in the metal as indicated in the picture I attached. In both cases the dates of the tanks coincide with the build dates of the cars.
My '70 didn't have the date stamped in the steel like you show, where you say. It did have a few digits stamped in the area where the send unit sits, though I don't know what they mean.
My '70 didn't have the date stamped in the steel like you show, where you say. It did have a few digits stamped in the area where the send unit sits, though I don't know what they mean.
I couldn't find a date either. However, I did find a number under the where the locking ring goes, like you mentioned but I forgot to take a pic. It was only a few digits long.
Got some really good news around lunchtime. I called Raleigh today to find out the status of the title because it has been one month since the inspector was here. Get this: the person said that the title was printed this morning. How's that for timing? I should get it in the mail in a few days.
Pulled the rest of the exhaust tonight except the headers. Driver's side was not bad. Pass side was tighter. Didn't need a breaker bar, so that's a successful venture.
I decided to order the Purple Hornies turnout header mufflers for it. I had a discount that I needed to use and I got them for about $80 shipped total.
My reasoning for this is: 1.) I can use the extra room. 2.) I might be changing it back from headers to stock exhaust manifolds and totally new stock (or stock-like) exhaust and didn't think I should buy components for more money that I would not need later. $80 is fine by me for now. 3.) I want my ears to have some hearing loss. My kids are noisy. This will help me cope with that. HA!
Also it was a bit disappointing, but I found a small hole in the bottom of the header pipe on the driver's side at the area where the pipes combine. Not even big enough to fit my pinky finger through...maybe half of that. Hoping it can be patched short term.
Car looks a little different today. Shocks out and mudflaps gone. Shocks were leaking air and I didn't feel like messing with them. Ordered KYB and in store tomorrow. Was missing one mudflap. Looks much better without them. Pics:
Ok, I'm going to pick up the new shocks for it today, and I need to know...will they come with all of the bolts? Of course two of the uppers snapped when I was removing them. The one on the passenger side right above the fuel lines was a real joy. Lots of fun fitting a wrench up in the top there. Kept hoping that I wasn't rounding the nut off.
But anyway, I have two bolts that I could reuse if I absolutely needed to...and two that didn't make it. What grade bolts do I need to replace them with and should I use any flat washers with them on the top side?
Ok, apparently I'm the only on left on this thread...possibly boredom or people getting to work on their own projects since we have had nicer weather has ensued. But I'm going to keep posting...
I am putting the shocks on and had a few questions:
1.) Is it ok to have the sticker mounted facing the front instead of the rear?
2.) Do I have it set up right on the bottom mount?
3.) What are the torque settings for the upper and lower nuts?
4.) Should I fully tighten the uppers first or the lowers?
1.) Is it ok to have the sticker mounted facing the front instead of the rear?
What sticker? On the shock?
2.) Do I have it set up right on the bottom mount?
Yes, with one issue. The washer closest to the axle bracket is flipped the wrong way in the first photo. Note that those two washers are slightly cupped. The cupped (female) side goes towards the rubber busings in the shock.
3.) What are the torque settings for the upper and lower nuts?
Should be in the CSM, rear suspension chapter.
4.) Should I fully tighten the uppers first or the lowers?
Yes, I started to peel it off, but then it had some good residue on there. I didn't want to mess with it, so I just turned it toward the front.
Going out to get that washer now. Thanks. Seems weird that on the forward side there is only the lockwasher and nut...normally when I use lockwashers for something I always see a flat washer next to it. Guess not necessary though since flat metal here.
---Should be in the CSM, rear suspension chapter.
Got it, 55-75 ft lbs for the bottom and 15-25 ft lbs for the top.
Also saw on that page a note about the spring positioning. I will check and see how that is on the car.
Also, these springs basically want to fall half way out of the top mount with the shocks fully in place. Is this a sign they are too worn? Should I take them out and measure them? What would I compare them to for a reference number?
Also, these springs basically want to fall half way out of the top mount with the shocks fully in place. Is this a sign they are too worn? Should I take them out and measure them? What would I compare them to for a reference number?
Are they lowering springs? If not, the more likely answer is that the aftermarket shocks are longer than OEM at full extension. This could be an issue on a hard bump (again, the Dukes problem...).
Are they lowering springs? If not, the more likely answer is that the aftermarket shocks are longer than OEM at full extension. This could be an issue on a hard bump (again, the Dukes problem...).
Aha...good point about possibly being longer. The other ones on there were the Gabriel Hi Jackers so I don't have an OEM shock to compare to.
So, should I raise the axle some with a jack then while it is still being worked on? I don't want to cause any hyperextension. If that is even possible. But just checking.
February 23rd, 2016, 06:21 AM
