257 inline eight starter
#1
257 inline eight starter
Did anyone know if there's any aftermarket high torque mini starters for Olds straight eight? I have problems with the startermotor after convert my -40 to 12 volt. The starter overrun and have problem to engage the flywheel. It feels like the starter run too fast now with 12 volt. I never had this problem before with 6 volt. Anyone have any solution on my problem?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
Replace the 6 volt fields with 12 volt fields or there is a company in california that makes 12 volt starters to replace 6 volt, but they can be a bit pricey and I am not sure if they make one for your application.
#5
I was hoping to find a modern 12 volt mini starter who will fit right in but maybe I'm a little too optimistic... I will ask around over here in Sweden if there are any company's who can replace the field winding.
#6
Cris, do you mean 8 volts just for the starter? If so how can I achieve that? Someone suggested to run two 6-volt batteries connected in series and use one of them for the starter but there's no space for them in the engine compartment.
#7
There is probably a modern 12 , but it will have a solenoid on it and you will need a starter button. 12 volt fields may be available for that starter if you have a shop over there to install them.
#8
Do you know where I can find a modern 12 volt solenoid starter? I would gladly avoid the starting pedal in favor of a start button.
#9
I contacted the company, but they do not ship to Sweden. Without the original starter number they can not tell me if they have made a replacement for your starter. Get me the number and I will see what I can find out. I will also look into what fields are needed to convert your 6v to 12v. Than you can choose how you want to go forward.
#10
You can run a six volt system with eight volt battery, just one battery.
#11
I contacted the company, but they do not ship to Sweden. Without the original starter number they can not tell me if they have made a replacement for your starter. Get me the number and I will see what I can find out. I will also look into what fields are needed to convert your 6v to 12v. Than you can choose how you want to go forward.
#12
#13
Hi Ornberg
Good to see some more swedes around J
On a conversion, I did some years back Iused an old-style battery with lead plates between the cells, each cell have 2Vand just attach a separate cable only for the starter.
I went 8V on mine and it worked out finefor a couple of years until I sold the car.
All the way down in the Picture you will see the starter Cable.
#14
Hi Ornberg
Good to see some more swedes around J
On a conversion, I did some years back Iused an old-style battery with lead plates between the cells, each cell have 2Vand just attach a separate cable only for the starter.
I went 8V on mine and it worked out finefor a couple of years until I sold the car.
All the way down in the Picture you will see the starter Cable.
Looks like a Hudson Twin H-Power engine.... nice! Your conversion looks good and that's one nice way to solve the problem. A friend came up with another solution for my problem and I will give it a shoot. I will be back with pics if it turns out good.
#16
#17
Hi Ornberg
Good to see some more swedes around J
On a conversion, I did some years back Iused an old-style battery with lead plates between the cells, each cell have 2Vand just attach a separate cable only for the starter.
I went 8V on mine and it worked out finefor a couple of years until I sold the car.
All the way down in the Picture you will see the starter Cable.
#18
This would be a farmer fix but if you used a smaller diameter battery cable (especially if you are using a 6V 1/0 cable now) you will get a voltage drop. This maybe enough to slow things down enough to get your engagement. Cheap also.... Tedd
#19
Ok so this is the solution I came up with: this will be photo heavy...
The problem in the first place was that the starter run way too fast when convert to 12 volt and the Bendix gear have trouble to engage the flywheel. At least in the teori. A friend come with the idea to decrease the distance the Bendix gear have to travel before smash in to the flyweel. The longer distance the more speed as the gear pick up speed on its way forward. First, I measured the distance from the starters mounting spot to the outside flange on the flywheel. Sorry for all measurement in mm, we use the metric system over here.
25.3 mm
18.9 mm from the flange to the front of the gear. So the distance the gear have to travel before reaching the flywheel are around 6 mm. )25.3 - 18.9 = 6.4 mm
I will make a distance ring with the thickness of 4.5 mm and place where the red arrow show.
Some work with the Lathe.
The 4.5 mm distance ring in place.
Now the gear sits closer in the normal position and the travel to reach the flywheel is only around 2 mm so the pick up speed will be slower.
This arm must either be bend to compensate for the forward moved Bendix gear or as I did, weld a small steelplate to the arm as in the last pics.
This modification works like a charm. I hope other can have interest in this solution if facing the same problem. Thanks
/Per Ornberg
The problem in the first place was that the starter run way too fast when convert to 12 volt and the Bendix gear have trouble to engage the flywheel. At least in the teori. A friend come with the idea to decrease the distance the Bendix gear have to travel before smash in to the flyweel. The longer distance the more speed as the gear pick up speed on its way forward. First, I measured the distance from the starters mounting spot to the outside flange on the flywheel. Sorry for all measurement in mm, we use the metric system over here.
25.3 mm
18.9 mm from the flange to the front of the gear. So the distance the gear have to travel before reaching the flywheel are around 6 mm. )25.3 - 18.9 = 6.4 mm
I will make a distance ring with the thickness of 4.5 mm and place where the red arrow show.
Some work with the Lathe.
The 4.5 mm distance ring in place.
Now the gear sits closer in the normal position and the travel to reach the flywheel is only around 2 mm so the pick up speed will be slower.
This arm must either be bend to compensate for the forward moved Bendix gear or as I did, weld a small steelplate to the arm as in the last pics.
This modification works like a charm. I hope other can have interest in this solution if facing the same problem. Thanks
/Per Ornberg
#20
I found this fix unique and interesting. I'll store this information somewhere in the back of my brain and if I live long enough maybe I can pass it along to someone else down the road.Good work... Tedd
#22
#23
If you found anything please let me know. Could be good to have one in reserve.
Thanks.
#24
Congratulations on creating a "Fix" for your problem. Sometimes ,on these old cars you need to be very creative and determined to figure out problems. I'd rather have one person with determination
and the ability to be creative, than two engineers. Larry
and the ability to be creative, than two engineers. Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; January 14th, 2017 at 06:09 AM. Reason: Correction
#25
Thanks Larry
#26
Another quick question, is there any difference on later 257 flywheel? (1941-1948). If not the starter should work on all year straight 8, but maybe the Hydramatic equipped cars will be different. And will a starter from a 239 six be the same?
#27
Before 1948 6 cyl. and 8 cyl. engines had different starter part numbers.
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