What have you done to your Oldsmobile today
#1321
Finally got a weekend to get some work/play time. LOL
Replaced all locks and ignition switch. Rewired radio that previous owner had hotwired to be on all the time.
Reworked all electric window motors and regulators.
Then the wife and I too her out for a drive to gas up and then pizza buffet. And to turn a few heads.
LOL
More work/fun next weekend!!!
Replaced all locks and ignition switch. Rewired radio that previous owner had hotwired to be on all the time.
Reworked all electric window motors and regulators.
Then the wife and I too her out for a drive to gas up and then pizza buffet. And to turn a few heads.
LOL
More work/fun next weekend!!!
#1324
New Upper Radiator hose so far..and it wasn't planned Ha. I was tightening the P.S pump as I had a squeal (stop me if you've heard that story before...). Got everything ship shape and fired it up for a test run. Belt noise was gone as I was getting on it around town..I was heading to the local pub to place some bets on the games this week (you can bet on football with that state in DE, god bless America) and noticed the sweet smell of coolant burning. Pulled over to find out that when I moved the upper hose to access the bolts I failed to return said hose to the factory holster..woops...the alt pulley sawwed right through it. Luckily I was 1 miles from a parts store and 2 miles from home. Put the new one on and all is well and the squeal is gone! Gotta do some electrical trouble shooting later today, fresh coat of wax and my jetting still isn't enough so ordering .077-.080 cc jets tonight.
#1325
Last Cruse for the year now time to pull drive train
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#1326
66 Cutlass Midnight Rider
Guys:
Major milestone today, I finally got the body back down on the completely redone rolling chassis, it took 3 different suppliers to find the correct body bushings, they came from Fusicks. The counterman actually took time to go thru his inventory to find the correct size bushings for me, he went the extra mile!! I will spend more money with them in the future.
Thanks, Ron
Major milestone today, I finally got the body back down on the completely redone rolling chassis, it took 3 different suppliers to find the correct body bushings, they came from Fusicks. The counterman actually took time to go thru his inventory to find the correct size bushings for me, he went the extra mile!! I will spend more money with them in the future.
Thanks, Ron
#1329
Finally completed my big project for this season...painted and installed a new stone shield...restored and installed a "correct" set of grills...installed a new front bumper...re-painted the horns and all bumper braces...also restored the "forgotten" air dam. Wow, thought I had bitten off more than I could chew, but it's finished and looks great! Thanks again Allan
#1330
Elbow grease
Today I spent about 45 minutes of elbow grease with some #0000 steel wool trying to clean up my sunvisor mouting brackets. The chrome has some pits but cleaned up sparkly. Also cleaned up the rearview mirror and mount. The motivation was not spending the money to buy the replacements...the nickels and dimes are adding up and I've got to watch the budget.
I also used the SEM landau black on my sunvisors....actually came out pretty good. Still need a couple more coats. Instead of $65 on new visors I only need those little end tips and bushings. Some needle and thread work on one should fix them up respectable. Oh well that's all I could fit in today
I also used the SEM landau black on my sunvisors....actually came out pretty good. Still need a couple more coats. Instead of $65 on new visors I only need those little end tips and bushings. Some needle and thread work on one should fix them up respectable. Oh well that's all I could fit in today
#1333
Major progress today
Made a lot of progress today installing the wiring for my Aeromotive Phantom 340 in tank EFI pump. Several connections to the battery so changed my battery terminals to the Platinum multi port terminals. Can add up to six secure connections so they help when you have many connections. After I finished the wiring I was able to finish the new gas tank and got it installed after I finished the tank, pulled the old distributor and started installing the new one but when the oil pump drive came out. With the old one it took awhile to remember the best way to get the shaft back in without losing it inside. When I was younger we would just drop it in but now I used some Vaseline on the distributor end which created a slight vacuum holding the shaft. Was able to get it in first time.
Next weekend, finish installing the new distributor and electronic coil then start plugging everything in. What worries me most s the. Umber of old, cracked wires I see in the harness which is the worst part of the partial restore that was done on this clone. Thinking I may replace the entire engine harness, heck maybe the entire thing.
Next weekend, finish installing the new distributor and electronic coil then start plugging everything in. What worries me most s the. Umber of old, cracked wires I see in the harness which is the worst part of the partial restore that was done on this clone. Thinking I may replace the entire engine harness, heck maybe the entire thing.
#1335
Went to put the top up last weekend and didnt want to go...could hear the motor/pump running but nothing. Added some tranny fluid and started working again. Went to partially retract it yesterday to check something and it struggled again. Wondering if there is a leak, but if there is, it's staying in the car. Put some new trim rings on too.
#1336
Put the '65 in storage.
I'm moving houses and will be living in my fiancés house until we buy a place together...with a BIG garage hopefully.
So the '65 needed to go into storage...again.
I swear I'll get to it one day. ugh.
-Pete
I'm moving houses and will be living in my fiancés house until we buy a place together...with a BIG garage hopefully.
So the '65 needed to go into storage...again.
I swear I'll get to it one day. ugh.
-Pete
#1337
its unfortunate that I have not done a single thing to my 64 f85. One is no money to buy the things I need but even without money I know there is things I can do. But for the better part of 6 months was ill and could not do anything. now the cooler/colder winter is coming and no shelter to do anything ill have to wait until spring to do anything. such a shame
#1339
After 17 plus years of dragging my feet. I finally got around to repainting the seat backs and replacing the release buttons with good used ones.
Total cost for everything was $30.00. I should have done a before picture but they were almost greenish and lots of fade. FYI was done a month ago, could not find the thread to post it.
Pat
Total cost for everything was $30.00. I should have done a before picture but they were almost greenish and lots of fade. FYI was done a month ago, could not find the thread to post it.
Pat
#1340
nice cup holder got that on my fathers day list .looks like it fits the hump pretty good .nice job on the seats as well not alot of money for a nice improvement .working on the a arm dust flaps now for the 72 been holding off till the alignment was done
#1341
66 Cutlass
Guys:
I got the big block fired up over the weekend, it had open headers on it, stuff was buzzing, rattling and falling off the walls. It started up on the first turn of the key and ran pretty good, got the cam broke in and turned it off. As it was shutting down I heard a metallic sound around the starter area, the bendix kicked out a few times when it cranked over, hopefully it's just the starter than needs replaced and not something more critical, if the starter needs replaced, I'm going with one of the mini racing versions, it should be much easier to install due to size and weight of less than 10lbs. After this figured out, the car can go to the Body Shop to start the much anticipated work, Ed said it would be approx 6-8 months in the shop.
Thanks, Ron
I got the big block fired up over the weekend, it had open headers on it, stuff was buzzing, rattling and falling off the walls. It started up on the first turn of the key and ran pretty good, got the cam broke in and turned it off. As it was shutting down I heard a metallic sound around the starter area, the bendix kicked out a few times when it cranked over, hopefully it's just the starter than needs replaced and not something more critical, if the starter needs replaced, I'm going with one of the mini racing versions, it should be much easier to install due to size and weight of less than 10lbs. After this figured out, the car can go to the Body Shop to start the much anticipated work, Ed said it would be approx 6-8 months in the shop.
Thanks, Ron
#1342
Seven posts to go from September of 2015 to May of '16 in this forum. Pretty sad. I've at least organized last years photo's even though I haven't uncovered my Goldie yet.
Check out this sweetie.
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Check out this sweetie.
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#1343
Ive been priming and block sanding, the main body is ready to paint. Both front fenders are stripped and primed, need to strip doors, hood and trunk. Prime them and block it all out for paint. The frame, suspension, engine have been done for a while now. The engine sounds great. Its been about 3 years now, im ready to be done and drive this thing. But still alot of work to do.
Only this drivers fender had rust at the bottom, passenger side is nice, replaced at sometime in its life. The rear quarter showing is blocked with 400, its the quarter i had to replace.
Steve
Only this drivers fender had rust at the bottom, passenger side is nice, replaced at sometime in its life. The rear quarter showing is blocked with 400, its the quarter i had to replace.
Steve
Last edited by steverw; May 16th, 2016 at 08:06 PM.
#1348
66 Cutlass "Midnight Rider"
Guys:
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
#1349
Guys:
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
#1351
Guys:
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
After 3 years of restoration work on my 66 Cutlass, I turned it over to the body shop to start that part of the project. Everything on the car is new, media blasted, powder coated or replaced. I was lucky enough to get an Old School body man to do the body work for me, he is one of only 2 or 3 guys in Central Ohio who does lead work, Ed hung new quarters on the car and finished it without a spot of "Bondo" and the work looks smooth as glass, all of the repairs have been done way as well. Ed even showed me how to work with lead along the way, it is amazing to watch him work, he looks like a surgeon. Lead is actually easier and less messy to work with, too bad more people don't use it. I am excited to watch the progress.
Thanks, Ron
#1353
Not this week but over Labor day weekend (Thur-Mon).
Sprayed both with 1 coat SPI epoxy primer & applied seam sealer (Thursday)
Sprayed with 2 more coats epoxy primer. (Friday)
Sprayed with U-POL Raptor bed liner (Monday)
Sprayed both with 1 coat SPI epoxy primer & applied seam sealer (Thursday)
Sprayed with 2 more coats epoxy primer. (Friday)
Sprayed with U-POL Raptor bed liner (Monday)
#1354
A couple of last minute things on the list before winter. During the summer I noticed that the back up lights were flickering. Found a used Neutral Safety Switch on Ebay for $20. and bought it but it wasn't any better than the one on the car. Then found an NOS one for $49 bucks and scooped it up. It really was new. Put it in tonight after work and I'm back in business.
So hard to find 60 year old new parts these days. Made my day!
So hard to find 60 year old new parts these days. Made my day!
#1355
Dropped a quadrajet on Sparky for a full restoration
Today we stopped by Sparky's Carburetor Service in Milwaukee and left the Quadrajet I picked up from Lunaboy earlier this year for him to restore. Sparky's a great guy who comes highly recommended. He does lots off work for CO members. Can't wait to get it back.
#1360
This is a cool post. Over the weekend I upgraded the front and rear sway bars to 1.5 inch up front and 1 inch in the rear. I also addded 2 inch lowering spring in the rear and 4 new bilstein shocks on all 4 courners. Altogether the cost of the upgrade was around 1k. It handles like its on rails now and rides perfect. I used UMI performance for the springs and swaybars. One note I put new shocks (monroes) about 6 months ago and upon changing them out 2 of the 4 were already shot. Spend a little more for better shcoks, you'll be glad you did.