I can't help but wonder how much stuff I can get away with using "1962 Chevy" parts for my '62 Dynamic 88. It's my daily driver, with a single pot master cyl w/drums of course. I have a 6yr old boy and a 1yr old daughter, so I'm taking steps to modernize it in the name of safety, so I'm considering a power disc brake setup.

What are the chances that I can order a setup from Master Power Brakes for a '62 Impala and it will bolt up?

 

Hey thanks! I'll get on and nose around there. I'm a little disgusted tonight with the working-on-old-cars thing. I was trying to put a manual choke on my '62, and the collar that holds the choke cord broke! I'd just like to do something mechanical once that didn't drag on, break, or end up not being able to work at all!

 

I suppose disc brakes are more resistant to fade after repeated stops, but I never felt the drum brakes on my '62 Starfire were not good safe brakes, and I drove that car hard many, many times. As for split brake systems, I've had one incident of brake failure in a vehicle so equipped. A rear brake line failed, and the brake pedal went to the floor , leaving me with no brakes. The front system only started working after I pumped the brake pedal a few times. I could have stopped sooner with the emergency brake, but fortunately there was nothing in front of me to hit. I haven't put much faith in the safety of split systems since. I think it's more important to keep the factory system in good condition, whatever type it is.

 

I heard that 77 or 84 olds spindles bolt up (one or the other). It was hear say. Anyone know if this is true?

 

I WOULD VERY MUCH LIKE TO PUT A SET OF POWER FRONT DISC BRAKES ON MY 62 SUPER 88 COUPE. I ALSO CHECKED AND THE 62 IMPALA KIT WILL NOT FIT THE OLDS. IN THOSE DAYS ALL CARS BY ONE MANUFACTURER WERE NOT CUT FROM THE SAME BOLT OF CLOTH AS THEY ARE TODAY. ANYONE WITH THE RIGHT ANSWERS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

 

I'm looking at converting the front brakes to discs on my '62 Super 88 coupe as well... Definitely interested in hearing any thoughts on whether it's worth it, and which route to take if it is.

JJ

 

Does anyone have more info on spindles with discs that will swap into the 62 fullsize

 

Doubt it. GM changed the taper on the ball joint studs in the 70s. It may be physically possible to slide the later spindles over the early ball joints, but the mismatch in the tapers will overload the ball joint studs and could cause breakage.

Of course, I haven't even addressed the issue of front steer vs. rear steer...

 

Hey Joe, I was wondering if this conversion could be done by using disc spindles and ball joints off of a late model car and putting them on the early model control arms. I know when I did the suspension on my 64 I drilled out the rivets that held the ball joints to the control arms and put new ball joints in with nuts and bolts. Could a control arm be modified to accept ball joints from a later model car that would have front disc? The only problems I can think of is the difference in the length of the spindles and the steering geometry where the tie rods meet the spindles. Any ideas?

 

I am posting a link to a thread from another site. I remembered reading it a while back. I know this guy says he has disc brakes for cars and year models different than yours but you never know what he might be able to do for you. I have not done business with him and don't know how honest/good he is. This is just a lead for you all to investigate yourselves. I hope this helps out.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=141875

 

This is what's done in the B-body spindle swap onto the A-body cars. The problems are:

1) Ball joint taper. On the B-body/A-body swap the upper ball joint is easy since the 73-up ball joints bolt in to the older arms. The lower ball joint requires machining on the housing to turn it down to fit into the A-body lower control arm. I do know that Speedway Motors sells tapered reamers specifically for changing the ball joint taper in the spindle holes, so that's another option.

2) Spindle height. The later model spindles tend to be taller. In the case of the A-body cars this is an advantage due to improvements in roll center. The problem is that it's nearly impossible to get enough adjustment in camber without buying the expensive shortened upper arms from Hotchkis or Global West.

3) Steering geometry. This is really the biggest problem. I'm not sure about the 62s but the 63-70 full size cars are rear steer (steering linkage behind the wheel centerline). The later GMs (the cars that would be spindle donors) are all front steer (linkage in front of the axle centerline). This is a non-starter. Due to spindle geometry, I don't think it's possible to swap the spindles side-to-side. Unlike the early cars, the later ones all have the steering arm as an integral part of the spindle.

4) Bump steer. Assuming you can find a spindle with the correct steering arm orientation, you still have the problem of the arms being a different length and drop. At a minimum this leads to bump steer, where the steering angle changes as the suspension travels. It's a problem (and topic of heated internet debate) on the A-body swaps.

 

62s are rear steer as well. But different spindles than 61,63 and 64

 

Well, that kills the option of using any later model spindles.

 

I was told that in 70 all medium size cars went to forward steer, but most fullsizes remained rear steer.

 

The GM midsize (A-body) cars have been front steer since 1964. The full size (B-body and C-body) were rear steer throught 1970 then went front steer in 1971-up.

 

I know this is unrelated but... Oldsguy and I found a manual steering gear box from an early 70s Pontiac Ventura and put it in his 69 Delat 88. As I recall it bolted up directly to the frame; however, Oldsguy cut the back of the pitman arm off of the manual box and used the front of his pitman arm off of his center link and welded them together so the steering would work. That was an awsome setup. Nothing like armstrong steering.

 

I talked to Scarebird today. Perviously he didn't have a brake kit for the 62, but know he has what we are looking for. for $265 you get wheel hubs and a caliper bracket. He then supplies you with all the part number for the rest of the assembly. Discs. calipers, bearings, ect...
He also has a kit for the rear.
http://www.scarebird.com/

 

sounds like you need some good life insurance & a minivan. Drums were safe enough for my grandfather & my father, so I'd say they are safe enough for me & my son.
anti-lock brakes have been the only major safety advancement since power brakes came on the scene(I don't think you'll be installing ABS). Discs are simply more efficient. As matter of fact, I would say that power (non ABS) disc brakes are more likely to lock in a panic stop. If you want your car to be safer, put more rubber on the road(wide tires help a lot) & do preventative maintenance on your brake system.

 

Thanks for the update on Scarebird. I'm adding a power booster to my manual 4-drum brake system this season. May also do a drum-to-disc conversion down the road, depending on how the boosted system works out.