Convertible Top Pinching or Wrinkling
Convertible Top Pinching or Wrinkling
I have a 71 Cutlass Convertible with a glass rear window. When we raise the top after driving with the top down, I notice some pinch or wrinkle marks between the rear window and the back side windows. I'm afraid that at some point the top may be pinched enough to cause a hole and also the marks are unsightly. Is there a secret to letting the top down that I don't know about? Should I tuck the top in as the top lowers? We had a 1970 Cutlass convertible about 30 years ago and I don't remember this problem. I would appreciate any tips and can send pictures of the marks if that would help. Thanks!!!!
I have a 67 vert and for a couple reasons I always lower the glass (unzipped) before lowering all the way down. One being afraid of the glass breaking (though the manual does not require it to be lowered first) and the second being the increase in 'tight folds' if the glass is still zipped.
Not a simple up/down procedure but saves wear and tear on my top.
On another 'top' note: Got wind noise?
Not a simple up/down procedure but saves wear and tear on my top.
On another 'top' note: Got wind noise?
Amazing how the noise disappears when the top is lowered (the best feeling ever).
I purchased an Olds Convertible top manual and learned quite a few things I was not aware of. Found it on eBay (of course). Good info.
I purchased an Olds Convertible top manual and learned quite a few things I was not aware of. Found it on eBay (of course). Good info.
I also have a 67 convertible. I've only had it two weeks, and it's been garaged the whole time while I make it road worthy.
Any more must-know convertible tips?
I had the previous owner put up the top for me once before I bought it (of course he had the top down with the for sale sign in the windshield). The drivers side came down right on top of the latch point, but the passengers side came down a little bit aft of the latch point. He was going to wrench on it to show me that it fit, and I told him to just put the top back down. I haven't tried putting the top back up yet.
Any more must-know convertible tips?
I had the previous owner put up the top for me once before I bought it (of course he had the top down with the for sale sign in the windshield). The drivers side came down right on top of the latch point, but the passengers side came down a little bit aft of the latch point. He was going to wrench on it to show me that it fit, and I told him to just put the top back down. I haven't tried putting the top back up yet.
The pins should align at least even with the holes for them. They should drop right in when you engage the latches. Before wrenching on them, I suggest you get the Fisher body manual available for your car and try to find a factory owners manual (convertible booklet). The Fisher manual will have all the instructions and details to correctly 'rig' the arms. It looks to be a simple mechanical system but you don't want torn fabric or dented metal from 'experimental' adjustments.
Worse case scenario is to just leave the top down all the time (now that would be a dream come true!)
Worse case scenario is to just leave the top down all the time (now that would be a dream come true!)
First NEVER leave the top down for any period longer than driving. I read somewhere that on my 1971 Delta, always latch the pass-side first when putting the top up. Also, my rear glass window doesn't unzip but it has two spring-loaded arms to help it go into place in the boot-well but I stop it a couple of times to smooth out any wrinkles as I am putting it down. ALSO, never have anything even near the well in the trunk or u may break the glass. Just my opinion. Ken
KB, thanks for the info. you have the cars and the knowledge.
I'm not familiar with the Cutlass tops. There are two types, powered (elec/hyd) and manual (spring assisted). According to the GM 'Folding Top Manual' (1966) I have, there is a slight difference in lowering/raising the two types of tops. If someone wants specifics, I can post answers.
Looking for high 70's tomorrow. You know what status 'my' top will be in.
I'm not familiar with the Cutlass tops. There are two types, powered (elec/hyd) and manual (spring assisted). According to the GM 'Folding Top Manual' (1966) I have, there is a slight difference in lowering/raising the two types of tops. If someone wants specifics, I can post answers.
Looking for high 70's tomorrow. You know what status 'my' top will be in.
Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure that the previous owner left the top down for a *long* time. He had a cover over it, but upon closer inspection, the topmost fold is sunbleached, and the folds below look brand new. I'm not at home right now so I can't check, but I don't think there are pins and holes. I think the top just sits down on the chrome at the top of the windshield, and then there are hooks on the top that grab hold of the windshield frame from the bottom. I'll look closer this weekend.
I have a 71 cutlass conv. I have the same problem but my top is torn at one of the pinch points. Pretty much right were you will see the wrinkles when you raise the top. The other side is getting worn in also but I take care when lowering the top so not to rip another hole. My sugjestion is to just be careful. They are also correct as to not leave the top down for extended time.good luck and keep your top looking better than mine.
well fellas I read this post a few days ago and thought to myself "these guys must be **** as hell". I have a 69 cutlass convertable and I just flick the switch and the tops goes down - not much I see that I can do to baby it. well to get to the root of my story just noticed below the rear glass window a crack has appeared -- I'm talking a day light seeing crack that was'nt there a few days ago. looks like rain could get in. I keep the car outside- try to keep covered when I'm not using it but I have been on a nice weather hot streak of driving lately
so the moral of my story is don't smirk at posts that you do not think apply to you -- chances are your grief is right around the corner.
guess I'm gonna try to find some black duct tape and tape it so its water tight from the inside. I would like to get another year or so out of the top since it was replaced in 2003 by dad.
on a side note -- went to my first car show today and realized that my cool car is not as pristine as I had thought -- makes you realize that all the nice compliments on my cars condition etc really do not jibe in the car show circut. after today looking at the cars at the show I would have to give mine a c to c+
oh well, I drive it , enjoy it - guess that what matters
so the moral of my story is don't smirk at posts that you do not think apply to you -- chances are your grief is right around the corner.
guess I'm gonna try to find some black duct tape and tape it so its water tight from the inside. I would like to get another year or so out of the top since it was replaced in 2003 by dad.
on a side note -- went to my first car show today and realized that my cool car is not as pristine as I had thought -- makes you realize that all the nice compliments on my cars condition etc really do not jibe in the car show circut. after today looking at the cars at the show I would have to give mine a c to c+
oh well, I drive it , enjoy it - guess that what matters
Welcome to the over-whelming 'majority' of classic car owners, bucknailer. Your right on that a 'true' daily driver does not compare to the sanded, blocked, buffed, show cars you see out there. I have a 67 Delta 88 convert that looks good 'from a reasonable' distance and gets lots of second looks. I parked within the 'inner circle' at one of my towns' Wednesday nite watering holes. I wanted to run and hide. At least when I dropped the top and opened the hood, I get a 'lukewarm' reception. Hard to hide the wrinkles on 23' of aircraft carrier.
Have 'thick skin' and just enjoy being there. You are still a minority within the masses.
Have 'thick skin' and just enjoy being there. You are still a minority within the masses.
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