GoBigRed

My 1971 convertible top is normally in the down position. About 2 times a year I have a need to put it up. To do this I jumper power to the motor (see thread under "Electrical") and then physically lift the top into position with not much effort. I notice a lot of bubbles in the hydraulic line.

How do I bleed the system and what type of fluid is used? I've owned the car for 4 years and not sure of the history, should I drain the entire system as preventive maintenance?

Texascarnut

Acquiring a shop service manual for that guy would be a good thing to do before jumping off in one direction or another with a convertible top system.

Bubbles in the fluid would typically indicate the pump is whipping up air in the system due to insufficient fluid level. Bubbles could also be from fluid contamination from an incorrect fluid having been added to the system at some point in time.

A manual will also tell you what is the correct fluid for the system. If not, Type A transmission fluid will likely be just fine as would any 10 weight non-detergent motor oil.

Oldsmaniac

If I remember correctly the pump runs in 2 directions...one way pulls it down the other puts it back up....thus the 2 position switch. You must make sure you jumper the pump in the correct direction when putting it up or down....Some pumps have a fill plug on them and others do not which makes it messy to fill.

joe_padavano

First, is this a 1971 A-body or full size? The former uses a hydraulic system for the top, the latter uses an electric motor with cables. In either case, you need not only the CSM, but also the Fisher Body Manual. The info on the workings of the convertible tops is in the Body Manual, not the CSM.

Lady72nRob71

Here is the bleeding procedure for the 1972 A body stock system. I would think the systems would be the same for 71 but not 100% sure. If something looks really different, then do not procede.
Let me know if you need the full sized version.

The last part in pencil states that fluid should be within 1/4 inch of the lower fill plug edge with top down. Do not over fill...

Recommended fluid by the manual is type A or dextron tranny fluid.

I have never done this, so unfortunately I have no real experience on it.

redoldsman

I have done this on my 72 Cutlass. There is a rubber plug in the right side of the pump. I took about 2 feet of vacuum hose and tapered the end down where it would fit in the hole. I inserted a small funnel in the other end. I then got my wife to run the top up and down while I added type A transmission fluid in the funnel. Have plenty of rags and put one under the pump because you are going to spill some fluid. It worked about 15 years ago and I have no had to touch it since. Good luck.

GoBigRed

Thanks for all your help on this one. I finally did bleed the system. Redoldsman, you were right about the rags. I finally switched to a towel!!. I ended up using this large hypodermic needle that I found at a cooking store. This worked very well for adding the fluid. I found a label on the pump that stated to use Type A transmission fluid. She goes up and down real nice. Now to put to boot back on as I will not have to put the top up for another year.

71cutlassdroptop

Thanks for the tip about the needle. I used an old needle that I was using to inject turkeys before cooking. I had a small rubber hose that fit on the end. VERY Little mess. Now the top works like a charm.


Thanks for all the ideas on the Forum

robertrussman

I went to Lowes and picked up a ProPlumber Plastic Drill Pump for $8 and some tubing. The inlet diameter is 3/4" which fit perfect for the car roof pump. The inner dimensions of the tube were 1/4"-1/2".

The way it works is that you have two tubes and you hook up your power drill. Put one end in the car roof pump(its located on the side, just pull the rubber stopper out) and the other end into the "A" transmission fluid quart container. Prime it to the drill pump by lifting it higher and letting it flow down to it by gravity.
Then turn the drill on. It will pump the fluid right into the car pump. Watched as fluid went through hoses attached to cylinders.
I then stopped the drill. Pulled the tube from the car pump, raised it up and let it drain back through the drill pump and into the A transmission quart container.
Did this with minimal leakage in no time at all.
Ran the car pump and the roof went up with no issues.

Sure, a turkey baster is cheaper but it will take a bit longer and I also have a handy drill pump now.

Tedd Thompson

It's good that yours was filled with type A transmission fluid, sometimes they would use brake fluid back in the day and to intermix those fluids creates a major problem. Earley hydraulic convertible motors often came from the factory with brake fluid which is hygroscopic and attracts moisture then rust and is not nearly as good as hydraulic fluid so if anyone is reading this make sure what was in the system first before topping off with the wrong fluid.Should you find a system with brake fluid it's best to flush and replace with type A or hydraulic jack fluid....Just a thought...Tedd

robertrussman

Thanks Tedd. Yes that is true. Mine was empty and didn't worry about that. Thanks for catching that. If someone does have brake fluid and wants to siphon it out , that drill pump might work. Thanks again. Bob

ELY442

What do you think about this self bleeder?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111372946482...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The Flash

1966 olds 98 just tried to put the top up and motor would spin but it struggled till i helped it ill be checking the fluid tomorrow
that self bleeder would be nice to have

thanks

Fun71

Take note of this information.

The Flash

Hi
i took the seat off and dam it this car has been a money pit... some one swapped the pump out with what looks like a 68-72 Chevelle pump has 4 rubber feet on it and they just laid it on the bottom of the opening.
It also looks like the tank was welded it was filled with trans fluid.

So after looking online i see may places selling these pumps from 220-229 but the pics all look the same gold pump with 3 rubber feet

has any one used these pumps?
will they raise and lower the top like a factory pump?
or i can cut and weld the brackets on this pump i have and make it sit where its supposed to.
One thing i noticed is that with the top down there are bubbles in the line
as soon as it goes up bubbles are gone and same when its down again
and it had fluid in it
could it be a bad pump?
thanks

Pokefase

I purchased that to fill and bleed my new motor. It works great. Others may tell you to use a turkey baster. But for me... It was worth the 40bucks