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I’m very comfortable learning to do things on my classic car as I do basic work on my Yukon that I’ve learned by asking, watching YouTube, and just a little common sense. That being said, tomorrow I’m putting a spacer between my carb and intake because after driving it a couple hours I found myself in stop and go traffic and it killed. I have one of those clear fuel filters between my fuel pump and carb that everyone hates and the fuel appeared to be boiling and it wouldn’t crank. I waited 15 min didn’t see it boiling anymore and it cranked rite up and I continued home. My question is is there anything besides taking pictures to reconnect everything back and undoing 4 bolts that I need to know?
Do you know what temps your engine is getting to while idling and at cruising speed? The spacer will insulate the bottom of the carb. For the tubing and other connections, I write where they go on masking tape with a marker and put the tape on the ends like a label.
I don't know what kind of hose your using, but you need clamps on each end of both
hoses.
Lets think about this a bit. IF the fuel in the filter is boiling BEFORE it gets to the carburetor, what is the carb spacer going to do ? I would check fuel lines touching something hot. Gas is intended to vaporize, but NOT before it gets to the carburetor. Maybe try different gas or gas stations.
I was thinking the carb may have been heating the fuel lines back to the fuel pump but maybe not. I checked the fuel line and the closest it gets to anything is this clear filter 3/4in from the block. I know a couple guys with a similar setup and was told that was fine. I was also considering wrapping the fuel lines. I do not know the temps but I've idled it for 30-45 and no boiling but the same drive time it seems to boil but hadn't killed. I've ordered gauges to put on but haven't received them yet. As far as fuel, that was about a month and a half ago when it shut off on me and I haven't used 10% ethanol fuel since, but it's still boiling and I'm concerned it will happen again, oh and I will also be putting clamps and my fuel lines tomorrow also, your the 10th person to say it and I have a box of them.
Last edited by Green-machine; July 28th, 2018 at 06:25 PM.
I was thinking the carb may have been heating the fuel lines back to the fuel pump but maybe not.
Think about this, you have a plastic filter that can't boil fuel.
I checked the fuel line and the closest it gets to anything is this clear filter 3/4in from the block.
I know a couple guys with a similar setup and was told that was fine
Its not fine.
. I was also considering wrapping the fuel lines. I do not know the temps but I've idled it for 30-45 and no boiling but the same drive time it seems to boil but hadn't killed. I've ordered gauges to put on but haven't received them yet.
Let us know what the temps are after the install.
As far as fuel, that was about a month and a half ago when it shut off on me and I haven't used 10% ethanol fuel since, but it's still boiling and I'm concerned it will happen again
There are a lot of people who run 10% in 100*+ temps with no issues at all.
, oh and I will also be putting clamps and my fuel lines tomorrow also, your the 10th person to say it and I have a box of them.
What kind of fuel line is that? Most of us run the fuel injector rubber lines.
I would suggest gas as the culprit. Gasoline is "blended" with additives for a region and climate. When did you buy gasoline last ? May ? Perhaps also trace the fuel line back from the fuel pump to the tank and see if there is a possible "hot" spot.
........Just my two cents worth.
Green, I think it would help if you connected the return line from the fuel pump back to the fuel tank. This will allow fuel to circulate and avoid boiling. Good luck.
I have the return line plugged because the fuel sending unit I have doesn’t have a return port. So maybe I need to replace the fuel sending unit to match the fuel pump then. So, it sounds like I’m wasting my time with the carb spacer. Thanks for the advice everyone
I’m very comfortable learning to do things on my classic car as I do basic work on my Yukon that I’ve learned by asking, watching YouTube, and just a little common sense.
Use a little more common sense. Not everything on the internet is correct. My unscientific survey says that about 8 out of 10 responses to technical car questions on Facebook are complete BS. Get a factory Chassis Service Manual for your car and read it. Good luck. FYI, there's something funny going on with your carb. The factory 2GC carb doesn't have a hinged bar for the air cleaner stud.
I just read through this and noticed that you will have to do something to get the hard metal choke tube hooked back up after the spacer is installed, assuming you still want the choke to function properly.
It seems it was a blessing in disguise but the spacer didn’t fit and from what it appears I was going down the wrong road with it anyway. I’m going to address the fuel lines first. Thanks for the input guys.
I just read through this and noticed that you will have to do something to get the hard metal choke tube hooked back up after the spacer is installed, assuming you still want the choke to function properly.
SNUG the screws down on the carburetor top. The fuel stains running down from the gasket make me think you have a slight leak. Look at the pic.
July 28th, 2018, 05:19 PM
