Jacoz70442

Pretty deep in restoration and all major body/paint work done on my '70 442 convertible. Have non-70 sport mirrors on and that's not gonna fly for me, so will change out. With that said, I know for some money is no object, but the line between perfect and cutting corners is subjective. Some need date coded everything and some things you can do repop or off-the shelf parts. How far did/do you personally go to have your car look factory correct with you repairs/restoration? What were your lines in the sand? Great to hear thoughts here.

oldcutlass

Purity can be a blessing and/or a curse, been there. It really depends on what your after. You go can go through the trouble of making it perfect or beyond perfect, but how do you intend to enjoy it later. Will it be a trailer queen or ?

BangScreech4-4-2

I'm driving mine, so deviations from stock are by turns necessary, preferred or unavoidable. Having said that, I want the driving experience to be evocative of driving the car when it was in "day two" condition. I don't want it to look or drive like a new car or a hotrod. I want it to be the sweet little creampuff you would have lusted after as a babied one-owner used car in 1971 or so. Maybe the dealer took it in in trade against a new Toronado. It might have a few personalizations and modifications, but nothing that looks out of place on a 1969 car.


Am I there yet? Probably not quite, but that's what I'm working toward.

CRUZN 66

If you want a 100 point show car, you have to spend what it may take to get it there... Not saying to pay top dollar for everything but you have to do what it takes in any time/money restraints... If you just want a very nice quality vehicle for the era of time it was manufactured and points are not an issue, do what pleases you... Many local shows won't realistically, from a judging standpoint, know a 100 point vehicle from a 90 point vehicle... Bottom line, enjoy your ride and the fruits of your efforts...

rcorrigan5

When I did my '68, it had to be as perfect as I could get it. It is essentially a family heirloom (my parents bought it new). I was matching bolt and screw head designs in various areas and everything so it would be as if it could have come that way from the assembly plant (I was fortunate to have access to a huge supply of bolts, screws, and other fasteners to help along). The parts that I didn't have (alternator, carburetor, distributor, starter, water pump) I had to search for and found ones that had casting/stamped dates consistent with the build date of the car. The paint is newer - with clear coat. It did win Best Of Class at the OCA Nationals in Reno in 2011 and that was a nice "reward" for the work that I (and others) put into it.

When I did my '69, I wasn't so thorough. I guess I burnt out doing the '68. But the '69 does look "stock", even though there are some items in it that I know are not stock (reclining passenger bucket seat, for instance...available in '68 but not in '69). The finish isn't as good as the '68 (all the bolt and screw heads don't necessarily match!). In actuality, I prefer driving the '69 over the '68 because it isn't as "perfect" in my mind. The '69 might get a "first place" at an OCA show but it certainly wouldn't reach best of class.

I like the '69 better. I can drive it and feel comfortable!

Randy C.

OLDSter Ralph

Restoring and driving compared to "better than new" restoration seem to be a concern of some. Most cars at car shows are nice to view and appreciate. Would I recognize subtle "uncorrect" items on other brand cars ? Nope, I appreciate seeing what they looked like back when I was young and original.
Several items such as custom air cleaners, differential covers, headers, custom wheels/tires are just fine.

GoodOldsGuyDougie

I have Bias Ply tires on both of my classic cars. They have the look of the Period and look fantastic on the cars. I do try to stay period correct. I don't care about things like hose clamps, original style batteries etc.

blakes7

I really admire the efforts of those who try to keep or restore a car as original as possible, but NOS and OEM parts are increasingly scarce. What happens when you just can't find these parts anymore? Sometimes you just have to do the best you can and rig something.

Tedd Thompson

Been there and done that to the perfection thing but I've mostly gotten over it. Hard to drive a near perfect car and enjoy it as much as you would a very nice car with a road chip or two.
The car also took a first at the Nationals in Reno but I don't think so now, To many changes and miles but I would enjoy the trip over there more today if they had a National again on the west coast, rock chips and all

A lot of what you wan't to do with your car depends on the game you want to play, how deep your pockets are and where you get the most enjoyment out of it. All that can change in a heart beat or the lack of it. Don't get so deep that it never gets done and becomes someones else project...Tedd

AJFink

Thank you for bringing this topic up. I am in the last stages of my restoration, off and on I have been battling "Show Car" or "Driver" Cost of course is playing a big part but what little repop I have had to deal with is very time consuming to make it right. And of course at times it has been the only option.
What replies I have read has been good to know that what ever way I go will be right. I want a good looking car, that will do well in any show I put it in. The points I'm after are "Glad to see another classic saved and enjoyed by its owner".


Anxious to read more.

Jacoz70442

I'm all about getting as close as possible(as in not having to search the ends of the Earth for something original) but have it look pretty close to stock/factory. I understand the desire to get it just how it rolled off the line, but you have to have some really deep pockets to get some of this stuff now NOS or original...and not even things like W-27 carriers or W-30 parts. Cool part is there's a lot of repop stuff available and being that the A-Body covers a ton, there is interchange. Tough part is when repop isn't up to snuff or oddball parts you need to find(like a rear seat frame for convertible. ugh!) I really do appreciate the time each person puts into getting their cars they way they want. Amazing resources and knowledge here!

OLDSter Ralph

Some are restoring to a standard better than came out of the factory. Date codes on wheels, underside of an intake manifold. "Correct" paint stripes on the camshaft, copying Inspectors paint dabs, X's and such from other cars to imply authenticity. Painting stripes on coolant, heater hoses and vacuum hoses ? Is this really necessary or add value?

Charlie Jones

Yes , It's really nice to know which hose goes where when you hook them all up !

OLDSter Ralph

Charlie, don't laugh, I saw someone mention such things in a thread. Also someone apologizing because he didn't paint the group number on a radiator hose.

OLDSter Ralph

Charlie, I suppose it could help to hook things up. I got the feeling it wasn't the reason for painting stripes on the vacuum hoses.
What paint would a person use ?

Fun71

I drove a 70 Supreme through high school and college; after it succumbed to rust I bought the 71 convertible when I got my first job. My intent was to have a nice looking car that I could drive and have fun in, just as I did in school. I never expected to go to car shows and such so I don't worry about exact restoration. I modded the 70 Supreme back then, so I treat the 71 the same today.

OLDSter Ralph

When I got out of high school, my first car was a '38 Chebby sedan with an inline 6. Muscle cars were beginning to be more common.


My stepfather was part time salesman for an Olds dealership. He found me a '65 4-4-2 convertible, 4 speed, 4.10 rear that was going to be repossessed. One test drive and I was HOOKED.


I kept the car visably original, but it got Hooker headers. Eventually it ended up with 3-2's and a W-30 cam/springs, 4.33 gears, chrome slotted wheels and the biggest 14" tires I could find.


I still like to keep the original car look, but horsepower adding stuff doesn't count. You won't see a blower or tunnel ram protruding through the hood. I might consider EFI or a turbo hidden under the hood.

Charlie Jones

Ralph ,

The reason that I would paint vacuum hoses , is the same one the factory had . To make sure that the hoses go to the proper places
As in this diagram;






When I put the dash together , I plan on all new hoses . I will probably mask them with masking tape run along the hose . Leaving about a quarter inch gap . Probably spray the gaps lightly with various spray bombs from the hardware store .

As you noted , all the rest of that stuff is probably un-necessary . Unless you are after show points .

The thing about judging is ; you may have a field of 40 or more really nice cars . And you are asked to pick the very best one . Small details like that may separate first from second from third etc.

OLDSter Ralph

Dayum, that's why you're "Darksider #1" It makes some sense to me now. Some cars do have a "basket of snakes" for vacuum lines.

Tedd Thompson

I have seen a perfect concourse car(54 Chevy 4 door)lose to a 55 chevy 2 door not because the 55 was a better looking car but because of a welded tail pipe that should have been clamped. Both cars were judged at 97 points till then. It's just the game they play.... Tedd

Koda

I look at it from an engineer's and a factory employee's view. I have no problem with a functional part that is equal to, or superior, being on the car, for wear items like belts, hoses, clamps, tires, battery, points, plugs, wires, bulbs, brake hardware, bearings, and all fluids. For cosmetic items, I prefer originals, preferably NOS, or refurbished originals, over repop parts, unless said repop is precisely identical.

For markings, I have no issue with the correct part number on the part; it helps with the correct identification. Paint marks are typically for 3 things, correct part selection, correct orientation/installation, or confirmation that you did something there, like tightened it, or released a clip, and all of those are for a fast production environment, so I don't think I need them.

OLDSter Ralph

If I remember correctly, I took the time to remove all those "factory paint marks". I ordered and picked up a "new car. I didn't want my engine compartment to look like someone got in there with "a box of crayons".