67 Cutlass that begged to be saved!
#81
The areas that are sorta satin black are just primed with black sealer. The roof skin and sides are clear coated. The clear I have on hand is pricy so it didn’t make sense to shoot everything with it. If and when I paint the whole car I’m going to sand the sealer to finish bodywork. The vinyl top can just be masked off with a plastic sheet. Up close, there’s nothing exciting to write about lol with all the imperfections showing through, but no more RUST!!
#83
The 330 has a heat riser in the left exhaust manifold. Most have been welded open or removed as they tend to jamb sometimes in the closed or almost closed position when the bi metal spring gets weak.
#84
Thank you guys. I’m going to need a little guidance once I get into the finer details. I’m a noob when it comes to 60’s Olds, it’s nothing like my 83 was.
Ive got some shocks, gear oil and diff gasket on the way from Summit. I like to do the rear end whenever I buy a car. That gives me a chance to look at things and also see if theres a worn out Posiand what the gear ratio is. I looked but couldn’t see where the stamp
is supposed to be on the tube.....
Anyway, here’s where I’m at with my plan of attack-Figure out my gearing, measure my tires, pull valve cover & measure cam specs, probably pull heads to see what pistons I have. The car sounds killer at idle with the dual exhaust, but the performance does not match it at all. I get that it’s a lowly 2 Speed auto, but my gut tells me maybe it has too big of cam for its compression. Now that I KNOW it’s a rebuilt engine, it’s time to figure out what is all in the car.
If it turns out I have a bigger than stock cam, maybe I should redo the heads and put an RPM manifold, possibly swap in a used TH350 trans and higher stall converter?
If the cam actually is stock, should I bother doing any other upgrades? It already has a nice exhaust and carb, should I just freshen up what needs to be done and tune my new carb to run it’s best? It has this Mallory distributor with no vacuum advance and I haven’t figured out if it’s the best for a stock engine? Or even where to set timing... I’m just wanting a nice cruiser but it seems like something is off. Hell, my 2017cc 4 cyl in my 60 VW truck with 140hp would smoke this Cutlass in a race lol
Ive got some shocks, gear oil and diff gasket on the way from Summit. I like to do the rear end whenever I buy a car. That gives me a chance to look at things and also see if theres a worn out Posiand what the gear ratio is. I looked but couldn’t see where the stamp
is supposed to be on the tube.....
Anyway, here’s where I’m at with my plan of attack-Figure out my gearing, measure my tires, pull valve cover & measure cam specs, probably pull heads to see what pistons I have. The car sounds killer at idle with the dual exhaust, but the performance does not match it at all. I get that it’s a lowly 2 Speed auto, but my gut tells me maybe it has too big of cam for its compression. Now that I KNOW it’s a rebuilt engine, it’s time to figure out what is all in the car.
If it turns out I have a bigger than stock cam, maybe I should redo the heads and put an RPM manifold, possibly swap in a used TH350 trans and higher stall converter?
If the cam actually is stock, should I bother doing any other upgrades? It already has a nice exhaust and carb, should I just freshen up what needs to be done and tune my new carb to run it’s best? It has this Mallory distributor with no vacuum advance and I haven’t figured out if it’s the best for a stock engine? Or even where to set timing... I’m just wanting a nice cruiser but it seems like something is off. Hell, my 2017cc 4 cyl in my 60 VW truck with 140hp would smoke this Cutlass in a race lol
#85
Mmmmm tasty floors
All I had to do was go over it with a wire brush and shop vac. Almost NO pitting! The rest of the car will be a breeze.
I like using this butyl sound mat because it seals all the metal from moisture. I’m not planning on a big stereo or anything, just want to do it right.
All I had to do was go over it with a wire brush and shop vac. Almost NO pitting! The rest of the car will be a breeze.
I like using this butyl sound mat because it seals all the metal from moisture. I’m not planning on a big stereo or anything, just want to do it right.
#87
#88
With all the pieces you’ve seen me use on the roof, rear deck and floors I’ve only used one box of this stuff. Better than the stuff in rolls from the hardware store made mostly of asphalt, but not as pricey as brand name stuff. It’s just generic Dynamat that the box says made in Russia... but for $65 free shipping I bought 2 boxes. I have enough to finish my 58 Bug trunk and a big part of the Cutlass trunk AND maybe doors. Great for budget builds.
My Bug has a nice stereo that really screams and I used one box on the floors and doors. It sounds incredible now. I layered 5 sheets where the sub box sits under the back window and it really hits!
It has an odor that you’ll notice when you first remove the backing paper, but since first using it a year ago, I don’t smell anything. Most people agree on the reviews.
My Bug has a nice stereo that really screams and I used one box on the floors and doors. It sounds incredible now. I layered 5 sheets where the sub box sits under the back window and it really hits!
It has an odor that you’ll notice when you first remove the backing paper, but since first using it a year ago, I don’t smell anything. Most people agree on the reviews.
Last edited by 1967Supreeeme; November 1st, 2017 at 04:16 PM.
#95
Also, I swapped in a new fuel sender. My gauge still isn’t working right, but I know they wear out anyway and the sock was completely rotten. Now, I have full filtration again.
I also removed the rear sway bar that was only held
in with 3 bolts on regular, non boxed control arms. I measured the height on all wheel wells and the right rear sits about 1 1-4” higher? 27 1-4” vs about 26” on all the rest.
Running those shocks and the sway bar messed up for awhile, do you guys think something else is messed up? Besides rear springs, what should I look at? Body bushings? That seems like a likely culprit for the banging noise.
I also removed the rear sway bar that was only held
in with 3 bolts on regular, non boxed control arms. I measured the height on all wheel wells and the right rear sits about 1 1-4” higher? 27 1-4” vs about 26” on all the rest.
Running those shocks and the sway bar messed up for awhile, do you guys think something else is messed up? Besides rear springs, what should I look at? Body bushings? That seems like a likely culprit for the banging noise.
Last edited by 1967Supreeeme; November 3rd, 2017 at 01:24 PM.
#97
Installed one of these from Retrosound in the stock position behind the dash. 90% of the plastic surrounding the mounting holes needed to be trimmed and shorter screws. It’s a DVC(dual voice coil) with leftand right hookups for actual “stereo” function. I also used 600hz “bass blockers”, to filter out heavy bass. That will be handled by the rears and fader control.
A Sony deck I had that was only used for a year in my buddies truck.
A Sony deck I had that was only used for a year in my buddies truck.
#98
Some basic Hifonics rear speakers. Since I cleaned up the hanging/hacked wires under the dash I felt I should just wire up the deck and speakers and call it good. I don’t feel the need to get high end speakers because the hot sun will be hard on them. The old ones crumbled like none I’ve ever seen before.
#100
Stripped off the rattle can primer and bondo. It is surprisingly clean without any bodywork!
They did a good job stripping the original paint with a DA, but cheap primer will just soak up rust like a sponge, it was getting worse daily. All sealed up for now with 2K. I kinda like the Mopar color scheme... I haven’t made any for sure paint choices, but it will definitely be a period correct Olds color.
They did a good job stripping the original paint with a DA, but cheap primer will just soak up rust like a sponge, it was getting worse daily. All sealed up for now with 2K. I kinda like the Mopar color scheme... I haven’t made any for sure paint choices, but it will definitely be a period correct Olds color.
#101
As I researched a little more about why it seems to have something holding it back for drivability, I discovered the trans fuse is missing and no clicks are heard for the switch pitch.... I’m happy to know I found something out, but I hope it’s an easy fix. I don’t mind redoing some electrical, but if it’s an internal problem and the trans needs to be pulled I will probably put in a TH350.
#106
Here’s the worst body gaps on the car, passenger door sticks out
Looks pretty obvious the fender and hood need to be scooted toward the cowl
Lots of improvement can be done, but for now I’m not going to worry about it.
Looks pretty obvious the fender and hood need to be scooted toward the cowl
Lots of improvement can be done, but for now I’m not going to worry about it.
#107
The original body bushings have all been swapped out. I was super lucky and none of the bolts or cage nuts broke. My banging noise is gone now, but there are still plenty of other squeaks coming from the rear to look into.
#108
With some warm weather lately and no rain, I’ve been able to work out the vinyl top wrinkles. What a pain in the *** though, my fingers hurt! Lots of work to get the bubbles and wrinkles worked out. I’m using the DAP Weldwood. Contrary to what is being said on the internet, you CAN get it ordered and shipped here. What happens is that there are a handful of counties that you cannot ship too. So, most websites get scared and just wont ship to CA. The place I ordered from was great, no problems
#114
I’ve been finding any excuse possible to practice TIG. This is my first time trying passes of several inches. Now, I have remounted the rear sway bar correctly with all new control arm bushings. Serviced the diff oil as well.
#115
The boxed arms, sway bar and new rubber bushings made a huge difference. The rear actually tracks straight and body roll in corners is half of what it was before
Most of the noise at 55mph is gone, but something is still making annoying sounds. I see no rubber on the gas tank straps, and I need to address the vent hose at the filler neck. Someone definitely monkeyed with it, I can see kinked hoses jammed up there. Maybe trying to stop fuel from leaking out parked on a driveway?
Most of the noise at 55mph is gone, but something is still making annoying sounds. I see no rubber on the gas tank straps, and I need to address the vent hose at the filler neck. Someone definitely monkeyed with it, I can see kinked hoses jammed up there. Maybe trying to stop fuel from leaking out parked on a driveway?
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