69 455 exhaust manifold and freeze plugs
#1
69 455 exhaust manifold and freeze plugs
Are you guys able to maneuver the drivers exhaust manifold out of the car without unbolting the motor mounts or top a-arm? I would love to remove the a-arms and do the bushings are ball joints but I've never done ball joints before and am scared anytime I see shims.
Also the block kept pushing out freeze plugs a couple winters while it sat. I replaced with the rubber expandable ones until I finally got a new radiator and fresh coolant installed. Is it pertant to install the regular freeze plugs or do the rubber ones work as fine? Does the block have to be lifted to access freeze plugs proper? It looked like there was one behind a motor mount if I recall correctly.
Also the block kept pushing out freeze plugs a couple winters while it sat. I replaced with the rubber expandable ones until I finally got a new radiator and fresh coolant installed. Is it pertant to install the regular freeze plugs or do the rubber ones work as fine? Does the block have to be lifted to access freeze plugs proper? It looked like there was one behind a motor mount if I recall correctly.
Last edited by Olds64; January 11th, 2018 at 08:28 AM. Reason: No cussing please.
#2
I have had to jack up the motor on my 67 Delta (same chassis) to get the manifolds in and out.
The shims are irrelevant. Once you replace the bushings and ball joints, you will need to have the car completely aligned anyway. The only certainty is that those current shims won't be right once the suspension is put back together.
Having recently done this on my 67 Delta, I was able to get everything in Moog from RockAuto except the non-existent upper ball joints. Kanter sells Chinesium replacements (at great personal expense), but I don't trust those. I got new old stock replacements from Craig at Mobileparts on this site.
The shims are irrelevant. Once you replace the bushings and ball joints, you will need to have the car completely aligned anyway. The only certainty is that those current shims won't be right once the suspension is put back together.
Having recently done this on my 67 Delta, I was able to get everything in Moog from RockAuto except the non-existent upper ball joints. Kanter sells Chinesium replacements (at great personal expense), but I don't trust those. I got new old stock replacements from Craig at Mobileparts on this site.
#3
I have had to jack up the motor on my 67 Delta (same chassis) to get the manifolds in and out.
The shims are irrelevant. Once you replace the bushings and ball joints, you will need to have the car completely aligned anyway. The only certainty is that those current shims won't be right once the suspension is put back together.
Having recently done this on my 67 Delta, I was able to get everything in Moog from RockAuto except the non-existent upper ball joints. Kanter sells Chinesium replacements (at great personal expense), but I don't trust those. I got new old stock replacements from Craig at Mobileparts on this site.
The shims are irrelevant. Once you replace the bushings and ball joints, you will need to have the car completely aligned anyway. The only certainty is that those current shims won't be right once the suspension is put back together.
Having recently done this on my 67 Delta, I was able to get everything in Moog from RockAuto except the non-existent upper ball joints. Kanter sells Chinesium replacements (at great personal expense), but I don't trust those. I got new old stock replacements from Craig at Mobileparts on this site.
thanks. Pretty lame though. No wonder so many drove around with manifold leaks when I was a kid. And WTF with the dipstick placement? Probably just coincidence but that was the main spot blown out.
#5
the design being lame. Sorry. Probably 1 generation younger lingo. . I could get the manifolds out of my 69 Buick 455 without having to move the block. So yeah. I consider that design lousy. Or LAME as the cool kids would say.
Last edited by Olds64; January 11th, 2018 at 09:54 AM. Reason: No cussing please.
#7
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