73aussie455

Awesome work mate, you've been leaking elbow grease everywhere LOL..

I knew it would come up just fine from your original pics, as I said before, its a little known fact a covering of dust and dirt without moisture actually protects the duco underneath.
It's just a damn lot of hard work to remove the dirt and polish off the top oxidized layer of paint.

Beautiful car, you wont need to touch the paint or body for your lifetime when your done.

So jealous right now..

OLDSter Ralph

What a beautiful car !!!! You'll get warm feelings when you drive and get a "thumbs up" from others on the road. Have you bought a lottery ticket ?
RALPH

Mapdrummer

No doubt about that!. Man thay would be cool to roll up in the Lombardo, jam out for a few hours and roll out again! LOL

Charlie Jones

Not quite , the rocker arms do not get their oil through the valvetrain like in post '64 engines .
They are fed oil only a few degrees of engine rotation twice each engine revolution . When all the right parts align .
It is a good idea to prime the oil system , by removing the distributor and turning the oil pump with an electric drill .
And it is also a good idea to remove the rocker covers to make sure all the valves move and are not stuck . However , do not look for any oil to the rockers until the engine has run for at least a couple of minutes .

Mapdrummer

Update. We've now cleaned and polished pretty much everything we can and minus the few rust spots, this is one killer looking ride. We are very pleased with how far she has come from the tomb from which it came. We moved on to the next step to see if we could get it started but fell short. Pulled the plugs and used a bore scope and there was very little to no rust, but it wouldn't turn. Injected the cylinders with marvel mystry oil and let it soak over night and it freed up no problem. Just out of curiosity put a new battery in just to see if it would fire up, but no luck. Discovered the coil wire to the cap was bad, but we learned that it appears all electrical is in working order from head lights to dash to tail. Here's another couple of pics.

Mapdrummer

redoldsman

Michael:

A bad coil wire would certainly keep it from running. You may want to take a look at the points also. You might still be able to get a point file at one of the auto parts stores or from Amazon. Gap them on 16 thousandths and then set them to 30 degrees with a dwell meter after you get it started. It is good you were able to free it up that easy. You might want to pull the valve covers and turn the engine over with the plugs out and be sure all the valve are opening and closing. As long as it sat there could be a valve stuck open. Have you changed the oil and filter? Be sure to use a zink additive like zddp or use one of the oils containing zink like Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil. Otherwise you will wind up with a flat camshaft. The car is looking great. The interior is unbelievable.

oldcutlass

A hot wire from the battery to the coil + terminal will eliminate the cars wiring system to get it started. Note, the jumper will need to be removed to turn the engine off. New points and condenser are probably in order. If there is old fuel in the tank, drain and clean it out. Under no circumstances run that fuel through your engine, it will lead to serious problems.

tru-blue 442

Agree with Eric on the fuel. A cheap electric pump to pull out the old fuel from the tank before spinning the engine over. You can then remove the fuel line from carb/f.p. and and then tie a line into a can from the out flow side of the engine's f/p to expel any remaining vanished fuel in the lines, if the pump still works, spin it. Following along.

Beautiful interior bud. I really dig those steering wheels and all the Chrome,nice.

61Bat

That interior is just amazing. I love all the details.


Very cool you've got the kids involved too! Our daughter (now 16!) has always been "involved" a little in my hobby and I've had her help several times just to get familiar with cars and to see how things work. I think she'd like a "classic" her own soon.

Human

What a beautiful time capsule that car is! I'm sure she'll be roaring back to life soon. What a thrill that will be.

Bfg

Beautiful interior and original floor mats!

marty59

I am impressed just to how this is all cleaning up! As thin as newer paint jobs are on cars now a days you've got some material to work with there.

Charlie Jones

After you get it running , the next item will be brakes .
The master and wheel cylinders must be re-built or replaced . The hoses must also be replaced . The steel lines must be inspected carefully , and any that are pitted by rust must be replaced .
With only 12,000 miles , the brake shoes may be OK to use as is . Provided they are not contaminated with oil or brake fluid .
Do you have a 1959 Oldsmobile Shop Manual ?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...anual&_sacat=0

Mapdrummer

Thanks for all the tips gang and keeping the kids busy and involved has been a life's mission...no one sitting around on video games at my house. I did remove the fuel line from the carb prior to trying to start it. I think getting it to start will be far easier for me than actually getting it to stop. Never had to rebuild the brake system and I do have the shop manual for this car, but man, seems like a big task. The gas tank actually has a hole in it and my guess is that all the fuel pretty much evaporated. But i found a shop in Plano that a guy says he can patch/fix it, but i will take other suggestions if you have them. I will have to get it out and do a thorough inspection to see if it can be salvaged. So getting the fuel lines blown/cleaned out and giving it a good tune up maybe not so hard but the breaks thing worries me a bit.

oldcutlass

Not sure of the availability of parts for the brakes, rockauto shows shoes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders etc... but no drums. I would start by inspecting and changing the fluid with a good bleeding. If the shoes are good and no leaks, you may be good to go. Brakes are not that hard on these old cars. Don't forget to clean, inspect, replace if required the front wheel bearings, races , seals.

Mapdrummer

So should I try and rebuild what's there or just go with replacements? Also the break pedal as it sits is dead and all the way on the floor. I am assuming there is no fluid in the lines. AutoZone seems to have a lot of the common parts, any issues with going with those?

oldcutlass

I prefer Napa or named brand stuff, IE Raybestos and others. Air in the lines and an empty master cylinder will result in the pedal going to the floor. You can approach this 2 ways, repair whats faulty and reuse some of the old parts if they are still serviceable or replace everything. If you go with the first I would at least replace all the rubber lines, 2 front one at the rear. Then I would fill the master cylinder and attempt to bleed the system and push any old fluid out. Then inspect for leaks and what other parts are bad/worn, go from there.

redoldsman

As long as that car sat, I don't see how the master cylinder and wheel cylinders could possibly still work. I would bet the drums will be rusted inside. Remember, brakes are the most important thing on a car. With the low miles on this car, I bet the drums can be turned.

Mapdrummer

Right. No point in getting it to go if you can't stop it. Good pointers and thanks, might be able to break free this weekend between football and Turkey with the family and tinker on it. Happy thanksgiving y'all.

oldcutlass

I would not rush to turn the brake drums. What ever surface rust is on them will wear off after a few brake applications. I there is any vibration when you apply the brakes then get them turned.

linear59look

As far as the brakes are concerned, everything is available new with the exception of the master cylinder. Your Master cylinder is either a Bendix Treadle Vac or a Delco-Moraine. 59s can have either/or. They make rebuild kits for them and I have rebuilt them, but I highly recommend having the master cylinder/power booster professionally redone. The master cylinder portion is easy, but the booster is often an issue. Often times they need sleeved and are known for being troublesome. It is costly, but worth it. Prior to the rebuild I lost all brakes on my 59 once (Line blew out)and it was not a fun experience, nobody or the car was hurt but it is scary. Replace/Rebuild the entire system, Master cylinder to wheel. It is worth it. If the original delco wheel cylinders are present try to rebuild them, the replacements are not as high quality as they were. Also the replacement drums from Kanter are less than desirable and do not look like the originals, they work but fit poorly. Your originals could probably be turned. Just don't expect it to stop like a new car. An old time once told me "They didn't stop when they were new, so I don't know why people think they will now". As long as you are mindful of your surroundings it will be fine in traffic.

Charlie Jones

X2 on these . You can't afford to "shadetree" with brakes .

Cutlass Fan

Those interior pics you took look like they could have come from a 59 Oldsmobile sales brochure.

marty59

Correct. Not sure if the shop manual would show you the crank position for when valvetrain lube occurs but have a helper slowly turn the crank while priming. And the crankshaft may only see partial lubrication itself as only the top main bearing may be grooved. Take the spark plugs out too!
As for your fuel tank, some of the more old school radiator shops will vat out tanks and coat the inside to prevent any further rust as well as being able to repair any leaks.

Charlie Jones

A little "heads up" here .
Since you've done this , please make sure your next attempt at starting this engine is in a "well ventilated area". Preferably outside. Because it's going to smoke like he!! .
You might want to let your neighbors know beforehand too . So they don't call the Fire Dept. I've actually had this happen .
I've "freed up " two engines , a 47 Buick and a 57 Olds 88.
The Buick , I drove it around for about a week or two and sold it .
When I sold it , it still smoked like an old steam locomotive.
The Olds did about the same thing . The engine ran , but poorly .
I tore the engine down , and overhauled it.
Seven of the cylinders cleaned up at .030 overbore . The eighth was so badly rusted , that it had to be bored way out , and a "sleeve" installed .
Let's hope your cylinders aren't too badly rusted , and the rings re-seat. (Provided they aren't broken .) time will tell .
Good luck , Charlie

61Bat

Any updates? Love this car.

Mapdrummer

Not too much to report unfortunately. Been busy with the holidays and year end work. I did take the gas tank and the radiator in to be assessed and the answer there is that both are shot. The gas tank would be super expensive to repair at $300 + and I did a lot of searching on the web and found Auto City Classic and talked to a guy that said I could use a GM gas tank with slight modification and it should work, but the problem there will also be the sending unit because my original one has a bypass as some type of return and the new one wont have that which causes other issues. The radiator would have to be re-cored according to the guy in Plano that I talked to and that is going to run $600 to get that done. What do you guys think? go with a replacement tank and make it work and is the radiator work worth it at that point? I don't have a lot of options for OEM as you all well know.

Human

Well, it all depends on how much of a purist you want to be. If you want your car to be exactly like it was when new, almost six decades ago, then dropping close to a grand to get both items redone would be the only option. Otherwise, you--or at least your bank account--may be better off making a few concessions for the sake of convenience and practicality. And if you opt for modernizing, whether it might be worthwhile to add an electric fuel pump for improved reliability but only you can say for sure.

61Bat

As original as the car is I would say definitely re-core the original radiator.


The fuel tank I would have to say safety first, consider having the original "fixed" with steel patches or whatever it takes and then have it coated inside to keep it from leaking. That keeps your stock fuel sender and keeps the car as original as possible.


The tank is pretty hard to see where its tucked in behind the axle so I would say cosmetically maybe just have the exterior LineX'd that would make it look decent if you have to weld in patches.


You've got a real time capsule there.

my2cents

My 88 got a leaking radiator, too. I found a shop in my near, where they redo these old radiators and charge me around 700 Euro for that job. So go for it, if you just pay 600 USD.

My gas tank is solid but I'd not think twice. Redo and it's better than new. It's worth to spend the money, if you ask me.

Mapdrummer

You raised the point that I was concerned with and that's having to deal with an alternate sending unit as well which changes configuration even up at the carburetor. So here is what I am working with on the tank.

redoldsman

The gas tank is interesting. I wonder why that one corner corroded like that. It looks like battery acid leaked on it but it is a long way from the battery. Hopefully the bottom is not that bad. $600 is about the average price to recore a radiator. I had my 54 converted from a 2 core to a 3 core and it was $600. Good to see your progress with the car.

anthonyP

Beautiful car. Your grandfather took very good care of his Oldsmobile. When you mentioned aftermarket wheels, all I was imagining were those goofy looking oversize wheels. The nice 15" wheels look great, and are easily switched back to the stock wheels and hubcaps whenever you want. Amazing how well the paint and chrome cleaned up and shines - the small imperfections are nothing considering the age of the 88. The interior is stupendous and I had forgotten how well the interior lit up with the numerous courtesy lights. Surely you and your family will enjoy your grandparent's Oldsmobile as much as they did.

Gary M

I love how good that car looks.

Charlie Jones

I once repaired a gas tank with fiberglass cloth and resin from a "boat repair kit " .
It lasted for many years , until I found a NOS tank ,

Mapdrummer

out of curiosity, where did you find your tank?

Charlie Jones

IIRC I got it through Hemmings Motor News . This was on a 37 Pontiac coupe that I had from 1962 until 1982 .
I patched the tank with fiberglass in '62 and it held up until I got the new one in '76 .

All I did was wirebrush the loose rust and dirt off the leaking area .
I then cut a piece of fiberglass cloth about 3 or 4 inches larger than the repair area.
I mixed up some resin and brushed it on the area that the cloth was to cover .
Then I put the cloth in place and then soaked it with resin .
You may also might put on a second layer of cloth / resin because it is a large area .

This should get you by until you can find a new or "good " tank.

BTW the factory part number of this tank is 574235 . This tank fits 1959 88 and Super 88 . A different tank was used on 98's .

redoldsman

Michael:

I looked on the Tanks Inc website and they do not list one. They are good folks and it might be worth a phone call. Here is the link.

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...cat/cat127.htm

83hurstguy

Awesome work, amazing car!

For original lacquer paint cars, I can't say enough about Meguiars #7 to both keep them shiny and protect the lacquer. Here's a much longer read about single stage paints and restoring/maintaining them.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html