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Just acquired a 54 rocket 88 4dr, she's a beaut from the outside. Straight, all stainless and glass intact. But 30 years of living in a hay cover with furry visitors has created quite the mess inside the engine compartment heater housings. I was sure i got every screw but they will not come free. It's as if there was something else hanging on towards the center. I have also pulled the screws from the inside to get to the core but this won't cine free either. Anyone have success or tricks to the removal? Thanks!
I am assuming you are removing or trying to get to the heater core and here are a few tips.
First of all the core comes out from the inside dash behind the air box (remove air box) if you are trying to remove it from the firewall side I don't think it will happen. Second thing is Oldsmobile not only screwed the core frame in but also used a tar based sealant that is by now as hard as the metal that it seals. Use s heat gun or a good hair dryer to soften it up then have someone push from the firewall side while you tug and pry from the under dash side. Sometimes it is a bear to get out but with heat it will happen.
While you are under the dash get a good look at the heater control valve (Ranco valve) Now is the time to change it out if it looks funky stiff corroded or leaky.Under dash repairs should only be visited once unless you are a midget. Don't throw away the Ranco valve as they are getting very hard to find and you may have to have your's repaired or used as a core.
Let us know how it goes and if you have problems... Were here to help.... Lost in the fifties ...Tedd.... PS we like pictures.
I am assuming you are removing or trying to get to the heater core and here are a few tips.
First of all the core comes out from the inside dash behind the air box (remove air box) if you are trying to remove it from the firewall side I don't think it will happen. Second thing is Oldsmobile not only screwed the core frame in but also used a tar based sealant that is by now as hard as the metal that it seals. Use s heat gun or a good hair dryer to soften it up then have someone push from the firewall side while you tug and pry from the under dash side. Sometimes it is a bear to get out but with heat it will happen.
While you are under the dash get a good look at the heater control valve (Ranco valve) Now is the time to change it out if it looks funky stiff corroded or leaky.Under dash repairs should only be visited once unless you are a midget. Don't throw away the Ranco valve as they are getting very hard to find and you may have to have your's repaired or used as a core.
Let us know how it goes and if you have problems... Were here to help.... Lost in the fifties ...Tedd.... PS we like pictures.
thanks Tedd.
I've already been thru the similar headache with my 60 tbird.
amazingly, the sealant and rubberize goo is still very pliable and soft. The Ranco valve shows signs of slight leakage. I just can't seem to find what else could be holding the inside heater box into the firewall under the dash. It pulls back about an inch from all sides but seems as tho there is something in the center just piling against me. The 2 "air boxes " for lack of correct names, are doing the same. They must come off as this is where 30 years of mice generations decided was the best place to store all their crap. The driver's side box is nearly half full and rusting thru. Repairable, but in need of a good cleaning and rust kill. I haven't found any indication that the heater core itself is damaged.. hoping for the best. I'll take any possible advice. Also, there used to be a flex hose hanging from the engine boxes..... how long? Considering to make them longer to modify the radiator support so there is fresher air than from beside the engine.
Welcome to CO! You have a very nice year, stylewise, in my opinion. You are getting good advice already and I am positive folks will jump in with help when they are able.
I've already been thru the similar headache with my 60 tbird.
amazingly, the sealant and rubberize goo is still very pliable and soft. The Ranco valve shows signs of slight leakage. I just can't seem to find what else could be holding the inside heater box into the firewall under the dash. It pulls back about an inch from all sides but seems as tho there is something in the center just piling against me. The 2 "air boxes " for lack of correct names, are doing the same. They must come off as this is where 30 years of mice generations decided was the best place to store all their crap. The driver's side box is nearly half full and rusting thru. Repairable, but in need of a good cleaning and rust kill. I haven't found any indication that the heater core itself is damaged.. hoping for the best. I'll take any possible advice. Also, there used to be a flex hose hanging from the engine boxes..... how long? Considering to make them longer to modify the radiator support so there is fresher air than from beside the engine.
She was painted in the 80s before she went into the barn, I'm keeping her as is. Brakes, a little electrical, and a moderate level engine rebuild, and we hope to get her running. A major flush is in her future
Well the pistons look quite clean compared to the valley area, probably need to flush those lifters but I bet you have that on your to do list already. The flexible hose I found at a Napa store and came off the shelf in stock. As I remember the old one was a sorta whitish/ brown paper material wound around a coiled spring. The new was a whitish vinyl material wound around the same type spring, Looks the same at a glance and same function.
I'm having a little problem trying to visualize what could be holding up the core removal being it is that loose. Some of this may seem obvious I'm kinda going through in my mind and looking at my manual also as I type. Have the heater hoses been disconnected from the firewall heater core? Has the heater defroster control cable hung up on something it will need to be unhooked from the butterfly valve? From what I read it sounds like you have loosened/ removed all the heater flange screws and have broken loose the flange from the sealant. Sometimes there are screws hidden behind the rubber seal that surround the flange that are hard to see could one of those been missed?
Other than that there is a chance that my 55 is different than your 54 (don't think so though) and i'm giving you bogus information, hopefully Redoldsman or someone with a 54 will pipe up and correct what I have written Hope this helps.... Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; August 5th, 2017 at 04:38 PM.
Well the pistons look quite clean compared to the valley area, probably need to flush those lifters but I bet you have that on your to do list already. The flexible hose I found at a Napa store and came off the shelf in stock. As I remember the old one was a sorta whitish/ brown paper material wound around a coiled spring. The new was a whitish vinyl material wound around the same type spring, Looks the same at a glance and same function.
I'm having a little problem trying to visualize what could be holding up the core removal being it is that loose. Some of this may seem obvious I'm kinda going through in my mind and looking at my manual also as I type. Have the heater hoses been disconnected from the firewall heater core? Has the heater defroster control cable hung up on something it will need to be unhooked from the butterfly valve? From what I read it sounds like you have loosened/ removed all the heater flange screws and have broken loose the flange from the sealant. Sometimes there are screws hidden behind the rubber seal that surround the flange that are hard to see could one of those been missed?
Other than that there is a chance that my 55 is different than your 54 (don't think so though) and i'm giving you bogus information, hopefully Redoldsman or someone with a 54 will pipe up and correct what I have written Hope this helps.... Tedd
classic car wash and the retro dolls in swim suits delayed my adventures today.... but I'll retrace my steps to see what's being a bugger. I really don't think there are significant differences between 54 to 56, but my shop manual has only a short section about the heater.
classic car wash and the retro dolls in swim suits delayed my adventures today.... but I'll retrace my steps to see what's being a bugger. I really don't think there are significant differences between 54 to 56, but my shop manual has only a short section about the heater.
oh, this one's getting rebuilt for sure and the heater core is getting tested as well. I had the core one my tbird made solid because the valve was the second tube mounted on a little seal..... at least Oldsmobile was a little smarter. I may just put a longer cable and put a valve inline just inside the engine compartment. Thunderbird headquarters tbhq.com i think carries them.
thanks, hopefully i get to do the ride part before snowfall! Lol
2 rounded screws and a pile of ewwwww. Drivers side is off.
didn't even touch the shroud..... of course i have 2 extractions in my future, but i got it! Yay me lol that's a load of crap I can fix it!
wasn't too cooperative, but it's off finally.
Good to see it finally gave in, that one is GROSSER than most I've seen! If parts of the box are rusted through sometimes a good scrubbing with #1 steel wool and a coat of fiberglass resin soaked tape will make it usable for years .
What is the next project on the list? Keep us posted on the vintage forum, good people hang there..... Lost in the fifties... Tedd
Good to see it finally gave in, that one is GROSSER than most I've seen! If parts of the box are rusted through sometimes a good scrubbing with #1 steel wool and a coat of fiberglass resin soaked tape will make it usable for years .
What is the next project on the list? Keep us posted on the vintage forum, good people hang there..... Lost in the fifties... Tedd
besides getting the engine flushed, honing the cylinders, getting the heads done, rebuilding the carb, and anything else that rears its head..... just going to bleed the brakes and fix a few minor lighting issues.
still have the heater diverter and heater core to pull out too.
yes Tedd... i finally got it... now, what are all these wires??
Originally Posted by 54oldsmobile88RW
Just acquired a 54 rocket 88 4dr, she's a beaut from the outside. Straight, all stainless and glass intact. But 30 years of living in a hay cover with furry visitors has created quite the mess inside the engine compartment heater housings. I was sure i got every screw but they will not come free. It's as if there was something else hanging on towards the center. I have also pulled the screws from the inside to get to the core but this won't cine free either. Anyone have success or tricks to the removal? Thanks!
Welcome. Nice ride. If I wasn't hung up on 68-72 A bodies and had the room I'd look for one of those. I've always been fond of the 50's Oldsmobiles. Late to marry, young kids and limited space, but maybe one day. Anyway good luck with the repairs and thanks for the pics.
That is a heating coil. It will turn red hot when turned on and help put hot air through the air box. You might want to check that out before you button it back up to see if it still works
If I'am remembering correctly it may only come on when the defroster is turned on. If you follow the wires back there should be a relay somewhere under the dash left hand side that goes to the defroster switch.I could be wrong on this it's been a while..... Tedd
That is a heating coil. It will turn red hot when turned on and help put hot air through the air box. You might want to check that out before you button it back up to see if it still works
If I'am remembering correctly it may only come on when the defroster is turned on. If you follow the wires back there should be a relay somewhere under the dash left hand side that goes to the defroster switch.I could be wrong on this it's been a while..... Tedd
no chance this one works, it's in 2 pieces, 1 wire fried and one terminal detached..... but as much as i can find on the forum, you are correct about it being for defrost. Going to take some searching to find a replacement.
It's not a complicated device, probably something off a newer car any make could be adapted if any are still out there. It never ends does it... Tedd
never ends? I'm only into the dig it out phase.... daily discoveries. But I've done several little electrical fixes along the way and re -wrapped the body & trunk harness. Put the plastic loom the length of the cab. Cleaned and sealed the plates and trough under the scuff plates. I'm still very amazed at how solid she is. It appears to me that the backup lights were a dealer option and whoever put them in just strung a wire down the drivers side frame totally unprotected. Of course i had to add a wire to the body harness and I'll hook them up my way.
never ends? I'm only into the dig it out phase.... daily discoveries. But I've done several little electrical fixes along the way and re -wrapped the body & trunk harness. Put the plastic loom the length of the cab. Cleaned and sealed the plates and trough under the scuff plates. I'm still very amazed at how solid she is. It appears to me that the backup lights were a dealer option and whoever put them in just strung a wire down the drivers side frame totally unprotected. Of course i had to add a wire to the body harness and I'll hook them up my way.
Original hiding under 2 sets of seat covers..... Dog tired after pulling a hundred dog rings... he's helping me keep the seat in place
That is a heating coil. It will turn red hot when turned on and help put hot air through the air box. You might want to check that out before you button it back up to see if it still works
If I'am remembering correctly it may only come on when the defroster is turned on. If you follow the wires back there should be a relay somewhere under the dash left hand side that goes to the defroster switch.I could be wrong on this it's been a while..... Tedd
Actually Tedd , that is a heater blower motor resistor .
It controls the speed of the motor by sending power through one or more of those coils in low or intermediate positions . The power is sent directly to the motor from the switch in high .
The reason it is mounted there is because it does become hot and the dissipated heat is used to help warm the car .
Actually Tedd , that is a heater blower motor resistor .
It controls the speed of the motor by sending power through one or more of those coils in low or intermediate positions . The power is sent directly to the motor from the switch in high .
The reason it is mounted there is because it does become hot and the dissipated heat is used to help warm the car .
Actually Tedd , that is a heater blower motor resistor .
It controls the speed of the motor by sending power through one or more of those coils in low or intermediate positions . The power is sent directly to the motor from the switch in high .
The reason it is mounted there is because it does become hot and the dissipated heat is used to help warm the car .
Thanks Charlie, I love this forum for the information that is shared/ relearned. Some of this stuff only comes up once every seven or eight years.... Tedd
The GM part number is 3131533 and it fits all 54 thru 56 Oldsmobiles .
I googled that number and came up with this ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/261268748420?vxp=mtr
The listing has ended , but you might try contacting the seller to see if he still has the item .
Another thing to consider , several forum members are parting out 54-56 Oldsmobiles . Maybe one of them has a good one .
August 3rd, 2017, 03:45 PM
