The repaint begins
#9
make sure you get the longest blocks possible for block sanding and finish it according to the paint line your using. Do not mix paint line products do the homework to ensure a great finished product. I would also suggest going in a x pattern for sanding.
#10
Thank you for the advice I will follow your instructions.🤔😉
#13
JFB the only reason you don intermix products is for warranty and for the do it your selfer there is no warranty. That pretty much applies to shops. I have use ppg paints over dupont primers and sealers etc ect no issues. proper techniques go a long way. On a regular basis at the shop we paint over factory finishes and in some cases other finishes other than factory. Its common foder in a collision shop. Lets just say getting a Jobber to pay up on warranty is a slim and none chance. been there done that and they brought 4 diffrent rep techs sanded an entire bedside found a bs. reason to not pay up and we had to re spray the bed for nothing. The only time it really matters is when spraying. lets say dont spray ppg on top of a dupont sealer if you are doing the sealer and spraying the paint withing the flash times . Now if that sealer fully cures and is dry you can top coat with any other paint. When working within flash times its necessary when its sealer and base coat. I have sprayed transtar clear over ppg base coat with no issues and thats working within flash times but with clear its a little diffrent as base coat the solvents evaporate faster than sealer.
Also the X pattern sanding is kind of a generic term and if the whole car is done that way it will end up wavy. You need long even strokes that follow the body's contours.
No x pattern sanding on this 67 i did for member 67cutlassfreak and all the panels got a skim coat of filler end to end to make it as straight as possible.
Also the X pattern sanding is kind of a generic term and if the whole car is done that way it will end up wavy. You need long even strokes that follow the body's contours.
No x pattern sanding on this 67 i did for member 67cutlassfreak and all the panels got a skim coat of filler end to end to make it as straight as possible.
Last edited by coppercutlass; April 19th, 2017 at 08:28 PM.
#15
They (durablocks) are good for flat surfaces but to do it right you need good semi flexible rigid blocks. The block im using on the 67 i put a picture of is actually the foam edges they ship hoods with. I have them in many lengths and they do the job. This is the expensive tool for my re purposed foam edge gaurds. I have dura blocks but use them for initial cutting then fine tune with a flexible block to shape the panel.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FZ21wAodXx8Dbw
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...FZ21wAodXx8Dbw
#16
The repaint begins
I'm using Transtar primer and sealer. My friend is showing me how to do things I'm getting plenty of experience along with plenty sand in all kinds of places.This at his shop.
#18
JFB the only reason you don intermix products is for warranty and for the do it your selfer there is no warranty. That pretty much applies to shops. I have use ppg paints over dupont primers and sealers etc ect no issues. proper techniques go a long way. On a regular basis at the shop we paint over factory finishes and in some cases other finishes other than factory. Its common foder in a collision shop. Lets just say getting a Jobber to pay up on warranty is a slim and none chance. been there done that and they brought 4 diffrent rep techs sanded an entire bedside found a bs. reason to not pay up and we had to re spray the bed for nothing. The only time it really matters is when spraying. lets say dont spray ppg on top of a dupont sealer if you are doing the sealer and spraying the paint withing the flash times . Now if that sealer fully cures and is dry you can top coat with any other paint. When working within flash times its necessary when its sealer and base coat. I have sprayed transtar clear over ppg base coat with no issues and thats working within flash times but with clear its a little diffrent as base coat the solvents evaporate faster than sealer.
Also the X pattern sanding is kind of a generic term and if the whole car is done that way it will end up wavy. You need long even strokes that follow the body's contours.
No x pattern sanding on this 67 i did for member 67cutlassfreak and all the panels got a skim coat of filler end to end to make it as straight as possible.
Also the X pattern sanding is kind of a generic term and if the whole car is done that way it will end up wavy. You need long even strokes that follow the body's contours.
No x pattern sanding on this 67 i did for member 67cutlassfreak and all the panels got a skim coat of filler end to end to make it as straight as possible.
#30
#31
Thanks. I'm handing the trigger duties to a really good friend of mine . I don't like painting. Although I will be laying down the stripes. The last car I painted was 3 years ago . I don't like painting as much as i like doing the metal work.
#33
Every bolts on this car was Adventure in patience and grit,after cutting a couple fingers and scraping knuckles it still will not come off.. I will have to live with that mirror staying on door. My friend who is a 30 year body man said he never seen anything like that before.