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To get the oil pressure sensor/switch out of the oil filter housing on my 64 starfire, is it ok to remove the filter housing? Also the switch has been disconnected as well. I'm thinking it's this red orange pink wire sticking up in this picture.
It should be an orange wire. Can't you just unscrew it without removing the housing?
here's an epiphany. The connector was still on the switch, it looks ruff and the wire was disconnected from the switch or maybe ate through or just deteriorated. I've found one or two other spots on the car where a wire had been gnawed at, and I had to fix. Also some nuts stashed here and there. I'm going to redo the wire to the old switch first and see if it works.
I connected a wire to the orange one then connected one of those clips like in the picture and slipped that on the razor connector. when I turn the key to where the gen light comes on im thinking the oil light should con on too??
I connected a wire to the orange one then connected one of those clips like in the picture and slipped that on the razor connector. when I turn the key to where the gen light comes on im thinking the oil light should con on too??
I decided to do this while also changing the oil, so right now she is empty as far as oil and I haven't put the filter on yet, was thinking I could figure this out while doing the oil change
The oil light should come on when you ground that wire.
oil light doesn't come on. Maybe s grounding problem with car. Is the grounding cable on passenger side connecting the block to the firewall? If it's what I'm thinking it looks fairly deteriorated, that or the wire to the sensor switch is not connected at the other end. I will keep exploring
Check the oil pressure bulb and power to the other side.
of all the lights, the oil light doesn't light nor has the hot or cold bulbs ever lit. I'm guessing that those bulbs probably need replacing. I'm not so concerned with the oil light, but I am concerned about have a way to monitor the engine temperature. Are these bulbs hard to get to?I've been looking at the chapter in the service manual on taking the dash apart, would I need to remove the lower dash, a/c manifold, etc? I tend to make every job more complicated than it should be
IIRC the oil sender is a dark blue wire but it's been a while since I looked at either of mine.
Unless you have a new gasket do not remove the filter housing. You'll have an oil leak from hell.
On your hot/cold lights: if you pull the wire off the sender you'll probably find the sender has been replaced with a single terminal unit that only operates the hot light. Correct 2-term sender isn't hard to find. You can test those by grounding the respective wires same as the oil light.
You'll have to remove the A/C ducting but you should be able to reach the warning lamp bulbs from below and behind the dash.
IIRC the oil sender is a dark blue wire but it's been a while since I looked at either of mine.
Unless you have a new gasket do not remove the filter housing. You'll have an oil leak from hell.
On your hot/cold lights: if you pull the wire off the sender you'll probably find the sender has been replaced with a single terminal unit that only operates the hot light. Correct 2-term sender isn't hard to find. You can test those by grounding the respective wires same as the oil light.
You'll have to remove the A/C ducting but you should be able to reach the warning lamp bulbs from below and behind the dash.
Looks like two prongs and there's two wires coming out of the connector. If I check the light could I just clamp my current tester st a ground and put the pointy end into one of the slots on the connector? Should that make a light come in inside? Or should I just use a wire?
The G terminal should light the green COLD light, and the R should light the red HOT light. Not sure if running it thru tester would light them. Turn ign switch to ON (bulb test position) and ground the respective terminals to see if warning lamps work.
Look under dash and see if the printed circuit board is in place and its connector plugged in. On a 50+ yr old car anything is on the table.
The G terminal should light the green COLD light, and the R should light the red HOT light. Not sure if running it thru tester would light them. Turn ign switch to ON (bulb test position) and ground the respective terminals to see if warning lamps work.
Look under dash and see if the printed circuit board is in place and its connector plugged in. On a 50+ yr old car anything is on the table.
looks like the panel is there and plugged in, the gas gage works, most of the other functions do as well....
what i did... since the gen light worked I tried to check the other bulbs by switching them out , nothing lit, now I can't get any of the bulbs to work in the gen spot. But I'm thinking Itheyre all blown, they have s fairly good amount of green on their connectors. Also,what do the numbers indicate on each bulb?
June 16th, 2017, 06:29 AM
