recently my engine was rebuilt and the engine was pained a bronze color from brothers, I am satisfied with the color, during the rebuilt I installed a new intake and carb but now I want to install my original intake and carburetor, I had the intake baked and it is primed and im about to paint it but the paint that I used for the engine is pealing, im not sure if I used the wrong primer, or if it is the paint, or the engine is hot and causing it to peal can someone advise me if there is a special primer that is needed I don't want to paint the intake manifold and have the same problem with the paint thank for the help

 

Get Bill Hirsch paint. you will be satisfied. 667-67 engine bronze

 

X2 - BILL HIRSCH -

http://www.hirschauto.com/ENGINE-ENA...T/OLDZ%20BRZN/

 

X3 on hirsh. Fusicks seem to have been off the last couple years for me. I'll try and get pics for u. The fusicks appear more orange.

 

Try Rustoleum brand aged copper

 

Fusick paint

DSC_0418_zpsu7wkfvug.jpg

 

The Fusick's that I used came out mostly gold.

 

Has anyone used the bronze Thornton GM Restoration Paint?

 

Here's a pic of Rustoleum aged copper against an original 68 block. Not even close. It was a total waste of time and money. Next time I go right to Fusick. (I have four cans on the way now).

 

The Aged Copper is for 66-67 Bronze - not for 68 G block. Sorry if you were misled Mike. Send en to me. LOL

 

Dusty from sitting in the shop but it turned out nice. 2 cans to do a 455.

 

The only way to stop the paint from burning off the intake is to install the heat riser block off plugs either in the heads or in the intake. If you're interested in the whole process let me know. Yes, the car will be cold blooded but if it's a summer cruiser it's a good trade-off.
Here is a pic of my intake that was painted circa 2002
The paints from Fusick, the copper, and the air cleaner orange.

 

Do you mean you had the intake hot tanked? If so that still may not have it clean enough for the primer to properly adhere. Do an adhesion test on it before you paint it; if it is holding up well at minimum scuff it up with a scotch bright before painting it.

Your peeling problem is probably not due to the paint but due to the prep job. It is extremely hard to get an (especially a used) engine clean enough for primer/paint hold up.

If you can always use catalyzed products. Most of the commercially available paint products are not.

 

I think paint film thickness and it's effects on heat dissipation should be considered. Unless the paint is designed to shed heat I would research the effects of film thickness on heads and the block, before I started loading up the block and heads with primer,paint,clear coat.
As film thickness increases there is a point were the film is to thick and adhesion and chip resistance is effected.

Great thread,I know when I'm at this stage I will be referring back to this thread.

 

I wonder what paints are designed to shed heat?

 

If you google the "insulating properties of paint" you'll find that paint doesn't have squat for insulating properties.

Unless there's an air gap behind the paint it isn't going to insulate much of anything.

 

I used Bill Hirsh on the 64 F-85 build ( 67-400E) and pleased with the adhering. As mentioned cleanliness is key.

 

Engines did not get primer when new.

 

X2 no primer...another reason it could peel off

 

Fill the paint gun with lacquer thinner and spray down the engine and repeat until you see zero oil/grease. Soak it. Let it dry then paint with engine paint. No primer required. The factory literally about dipped the engine in paint. We restorers take way more precaution when painting our restored engines then any factory worked ever did.

 

I went to the Hirsch web site and they list their paint for 65 to 69.
So the Hirsch paint color is really only a good match for 65 to 67?

http://www.hirschauto.com/AEROSOL-EN...Y/OLDZ%20BRNZ/

 

super cars unlimited
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/65...nt.-d1225.aspx

 

Fusick

http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....p?number=EP90S

 

I like the look of the Fusick paint.

 

i have been using white epoxy primer (dp90?) for about 20 years on my engines, and have had excellent results and top coating it with bronze that I have had mixed. If I could load pics, i would post them, but our internet connection is still running on 1970 's connectivity!

 

For the 69 G block who do you think has the best color match out of a spray can?

You can't beat automotive grade paint and custom color match for quality results.
Its funny I never thought about using automotive grade paint on a engine blocks even when I was in the trade.
I seen it done on show cars but never considered it for one of my builds.
Thanks for the post I'm going to consider this route for my build as well.

 

I spray epoxy on all my engines as soon as I get them back from the machine shop. This seals the pores so the assembly process doesn't soak a bunch of oil into it. I mask the block and heads and everything else and shoot all apart.

I assemble the engine. Scotchbright the engine, wash with a wax and grease remover. First wash is with solvent w&g remover and then I use waterborne on the final clean. A light coat of epoxy mixed with urethane reducer for a sealer. Spray it and let it sit an hour and then I shoot the final paint.

You shouldn't use laquer thinner for a cleaner as it leaves a residue. Especially the cheap stuff that has been recycled like we buy now. Who knows what else is mixed into it.

I have a qt of Hirsch and a spray bomb of Fusick if anyone wants them. I only used enough for some sprayouts. I'm near Lansing if somebody wants to pick them up. I'm not going to ship it though. I'll never use and it and they are fresh stock from this summer.

 

Thanks for posting your procedure.
The engine turned out real nice, its not surprising given the detail and prep level.
What brand of voc solvent Wax and grease remover are you using?
Tumbler was what we used back in the 80's and 90's.
Also what brand of water base wax and grease remover are you using for your final wash.

 

SPI (Southern Polyurethanes)
710 w&g remover
700 waterborne w&g remover

The solvent 710 cuts grease better than waterborne but the waterborne really cleans the metal better than the solvent based. That is why I use both.