When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A fine illustration of typical ring wear you've got there.
- Eric
Cheers Eric, the nicest compliment I've had all week...
I fitted the rest of the rings today, but in the bottom of the packet of oil rings was one of the little coloured blocks, I had no idea they were plastic much less that they could come loose, should I break the others off? as im worried they'll come loose in the cylinder when its running.
Last edited by Eightbanger; April 23rd, 2017 at 06:56 AM.
I've never seen or heard of one coming off and I would not break the others off. My concern is, is it ok to install it without the plastic block? The purpose of the block may be to prevent the end of that ring from overlapping the adjoining end. Suggest contacting the ring manufacturer and requesting a replacement.
I fitted the rest of the rings today, but in the bottom of the packet of oil rings was one of the little coloured blocks, I had no idea they were plastic much less that they could come loose, should I break the others off? as im worried they'll come loose in the cylinder when its running.
I've used oil rings like that, but I've never seen those plastic ends.
Theres no way those would withstand engine conditions. They will melt, rub, or otherwise disintegrate away.
Cheers Eric, the nicest compliment I've had all week...
I fitted the rest of the rings today, but in the bottom of the packet of oil rings was one of the little coloured blocks, I had no idea they were plastic much less that they could come loose, should I break the others off? as im worried they'll come loose in the cylinder when its running.
This forum is such a good learning tool. I am unfamiliar with their purpose. I suspect that while they could be a source of early-on lubrication, I'd rather believe that they are intended as an assembly aid to get the correct installation of the expander and its positioning of gaps with relation to the rails. Eric is correct that they will likely not be long lived under service. If there is no mention of them in the instructions provided by the ring manufacturer, you could contact them for an explanation. Then you would know better how to deal with them. Since misery seems to like company here is someone else that seems to have the same question as us:
Whatever you decide, I feel that you will do well as long as you get the oil ring assemblies put on correctly and provide sufficient initial lubrication.
Just a quick question on this thread, would a ridge reaming be necessary, or replacing with std. not be a problem and with honing or reaming how does one keep metal out of the motor if the motor is still in the car or is just cleaning when done sufficient?
Just a quick question on this thread, would a ridge reaming be necessary, or replacing with std. not be a problem and with honing or reaming how does one keep metal out of the motor if the motor is still in the car or is just cleaning when done sufficient?
Well I would have had problems getting the pistons out without having taken the ridge off, and if I had just beaten them out from underneath I would have left myself with a lot of trouble getting the pistons back in, and running the risk of breaking my new rings.
The metal that the reamer took off was easily cleaned out it just settled on the top of the pistons, wouldn't matter anyway as the pan is off of course to be able to do this work anyway so its all easily accessible for cleaning any debris from both honing and reaming.
Also, to help collect metal bits, you can carefully stuff a rag into the bore, and coat the cylinder walls with grease to grab anything that touches them.
Any time I fear ferrous shavings might migrate deeper in a block I run a earth magnet(strong magnet) around the worrisome area. You would be surprised what has been missed.... Tedd
Reaming the ridge at the top of the cylinder reduces the chance of breaking the piston ring lands (the bottom of the ring groove in the piston that the ring rests upon). If the ridge is left in place and a ring gets stuck on the ridge, driving the piston out with force may break the ring land.
Another advantage of removing the ridge is that it produces an even surface for honing when using a stone type glaze breaker/hone. If the ridge remains it leaves a step and the hone misses that area, this isn't an issue with a ball type hone.
bauerterry...the concern over metal shavings is definitely valid...cleanliness is critical in this type of work. As for honing and ridge reaming and using standard parts, it is ok if the bore was in spec initially. Honing/deglazing is to remove glaze or scuff the walls so that the new rings will seat, it is not to increase the bore size/piston clearance. With the stone type glaze breakers there are different coarseness of stones that will remove enough metal to increase the bore. I have never done it my self but have heard of .010" being removed on one cylinder with theses stones and a new piston fitted, back in the day...
Replacing piston rings, reusing the pistons and doing a valve job was common decades ago, it isn't any longer. The ring wear pictured in this thread is a great example of why it was done.
I agree with what everyone has said. If you replace the top ring, plan on removing the ridge. If you don't you will either break the new compression ring or damage the lower land for the ring, or both. Do what everyone said on metal shaving recovery. Proper attention to details makes for a better job.
Well Sneaky Pete worked it wasn't without its problems though, trying to pull something that we'll packed in for maybe the life of the car was difficult, pulling towards myself laying on my back, I was actually doing pull ups on it at one point, then it shot out with the middle of the seal on it like a Cork from a bottle and I hit myself on the mouth..sure woke me up I had to put a socket extender on the pull loop to get better purchase and eventually the rest came out, putting the new one in was easier thankfully.
I have a dumb question, where should I set my torque wrench for 45-50 ft lb.
The number to the left of 0 is 51.6, the number to the right is 44.2
Last edited by Eightbanger; May 3rd, 2017 at 11:53 AM.
Things appear great. If those bores are clean, lubed, and you have a couple of alignment studs for the heads, you should be close to being "ready to close". Some guys do "dry" gaskets. I usually put a thin coating of something, especially on older engines where the deck and head surfaces aren't 100% perfect. Be sure to do incremental torquing, using the tightening sequence. You work so well that your "baby" may last longer than all of us. When she was born, I was just a very small child. I grew up with a 1955 model. It's still in my garage. If this world had longer bridges, I'd drive it over and show it to you. Keep up your good work!
Things appear great. If those bores are clean, lubed, and you have a couple of alignment studs for the heads, you should be close to being "ready to close". Some guys do "dry" gaskets. I usually put a thin coating of something, especially on older engines where the deck and head surfaces aren't 100% perfect. Be sure to do incremental torquing, using the tightening sequence. You work so well that your "baby" may last longer than all of us. When she was born, I was just a very small child. I grew up with a 1955 model. It's still in my garage. If this world had longer bridges, I'd drive it over and show it to you. Keep up your good work!
Now wouldn't that be great, thing is if we had those bridges you'd find me your side of the pond.
I was so methodical about everything, I used copper coat as recommended by Best for their head gaskets, tried Hylomar before and that worked well too but I didn't want to deviate from what was recommended this time.
Thank heaven for those locating studs on the block..they sure help, everything torqued and in proper rotation as per shop manual.
Well she fired up after many attempt and seems to be running well, great oil pressure I'm happy to say, and no leaks from the rear main which did worry me, now there is a new issue which has reared it's head, I noticed a noise when I got her running, think it's my water pump, and I still have the over heating issue, you may hear it on the video...but that's an easy fix.
THat squeaking sound at low RPMs does sound like a water pump bearing to me, but other things, such as a power steering pump bearing, are not out of the question.
Easy enough to remove the belts sequentially and test.
Noises can sometime be elusive. Do like Eric said, and/or try a mechanic's stethoscope to pinpoint the noise before making the repair. A good diagnosis can avoid needless work.
April 23rd, 2017, 01:59 AM
it wasn't without its problems though, trying to pull something that we'll packed in for maybe the life of the car was difficult, pulling towards myself laying on my back, I was actually doing pull ups on it at one point, then it shot out with the middle of the seal on it like a Cork from a bottle and I hit myself on the mouth..sure woke me up
