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[QUOTE=RocketRonnie;999017]How much was it for you to rebuild your olds 350?
Any tips.
I paid $1800.00 for a stock rebuild here in Canada back in 2008. I then added the Edelbrock 2711 intake, Edelbrock 600 CFM carb, hedman shorty headers, Miloden aluminum water pump and a few other things.
I didn't realise at the time, once you do the heads and don't mill them, you will loose compression due to the thicker head gaskets.
I wasn't a member here at the time I had mine rebuilt, if I had been a part of this awesome group of guys, I would have went about things differently and spend more $$$.
Be sure to ask these guys many questions so you can get the build you want.
I spent 3500 +/- but it used alot of swap meet parts / used / and hand me downs.
Runs 12.40's on pump gas.
10 to 1 compression speed pro flat tops (swap meep scores)
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/241 duration @ .050 lift
Prw roller rockers 1.6 ford units
Pro gear timing chain
#6 heads done by rocket racing just bowl work 2.07 in. 1.63 ex.
full length headers ,x pipe
34 degrees of timing on 93 octane
edelbrock performer rpm intake
holley 750 cfm double pumper box stock
proform hei dist
Th350 built by me
And yes it really is that plain and basic. Nothing special just got it dialed in pretty good. Most people would spend about 6k on an engine like that i have that in the engine trans and rear end . The key to keeping the price down is doing it all yourself.
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 16th, 2017 at 06:08 PM.
Copper, weren't you planning on selling one of you decent 350's soon? It could be a good deal for Ronnie if he's considering a nice build for a decent price.
I was selling that combo . But to be honest im not done chipping at that tree trunk. I plan on making the car faster with the same engine lol. I was selling this engine for 2500 but i had no real serious takers. The fact is i was selling this engine at a price you could break even., even if you needed machining but i had no real serious takers so it will continue to be in service until the car is painted and i have money to wrap up the next engine which is 90 percent done.
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 16th, 2017 at 07:09 PM.
My " next " engine will be another 355 olds built along the same lines but i got some really good hand me downs and its take over 5 years to build. But its 355 with lighter pistons , ported heads , solid lifter cam ,single plane intake , Just a better build all around should be well into the 11's in the 1/4 mile.
My " next " engine will be another 355 olds built along the same lines but i got some really good hand me downs and its take over 5 years to build. But its 355 with lighter pistons , ported heads , solid lifter cam ,single plane intake , Just a better build all around should be well into the 11's in the 1/4 mile.
I spent 3500 +/- but it used alot of swap meet parts / used / and hand me downs.
Runs 12.40's on pump gas.
10 to 1 compression speed pro flat tops (swap meep scores)
lunati voodoo cam 522/539 lift 233/241 duration @ .050 lift
Prw roller rockers 1.6 ford units
Pro gear timing chain
#6 heads done by rocket racing just bowl work 2.07 in. 1.63 ex.
full length headers ,x pipe
34 degrees of timing on 93 octane
edelbrock performer rpm intake
holley 750 cfm double pumper box stock
proform hei dist
Th350 built by me
And yes it really is that plain and basic. Nothing special just got it dialed in pretty good. Most people would spend about 6k on an engine like that i have that in the engine trans and rear end . The key to keeping the price down is doing it all yourself.
this is not a hijack but info if you have not finished the bodywork yet on you ride.vfn parts period. the hoods save 45,fenders save 70 a pair,deck lid saves 30 bumpers save 33 a piece trust me I got these numbers first hand from the manufacturer. stripping your ride clean can save 40 to 60 pds and thinner gauge panels also save weight trying to get on rop can be frustrating so this is the only place for these quotes among us. intakes heads etc in aluminum save more weight and a hundred pounds is about a tenth and a half. porting heads also saves weight. good luck out there and run hard.
I prefer glasstek., VFN is junk imo. Car is getting glass hood , deck lid and lexan side glass. I had glasstek fenders and hood in the past. The doors have had the beams taken out and once i go to the lexan i will closer to shaving 45 lbs from each door. I really want to shave about 200 lbs which will put me about in the 12.20 e/t and then try a new converter and hopefully the new fuel pump will help and we can get a 12.0 11.99 from it before the new engine. If money allows im doing glass bumpers too.
I prefer glasstek., VFN is junk imo. Car is getting glass hood , deck lid and lexan side glass. I had glasstek fenders and hood in the past. The doors have had the beams taken out and once i go to the lexan i will closer to shaving 45 lbs from each door. I really want to shave about 200 lbs which will put me about in the 12.20 e/t and then try a new converter and hopefully the new fuel pump will help and we can get a 12.0 11.99 from it before the new engine. If money allows im doing glass bumpers too.
Good to know about VFN. I believe you, being a body man by trade. Weight is like free horsepower. I will be happy with high 13's out my car but mine will be a hop in and drive 6 hours away getting 20+ mpg and be fun. The 88 might get this treatment, the Brougham interior in it is heavy and needs to go plus the driver's floor and rear frame need attention.
I prefer glasstek., VFN is junk imo. Car is getting glass hood , deck lid and lexan side glass. I had glasstek fenders and hood in the past. The doors have had the beams taken out and once i go to the lexan i will closer to shaving 45 lbs from each door. I really want to shave about 200 lbs which will put me about in the 12.20 e/t and then try a new converter and hopefully the new fuel pump will help and we can get a 12.0 11.99 from it before the new engine. If money allows im doing glass bumpers too.
I cannot agree with you more painted bumpers was a option with rallye 350 packages in the day and putting light weight strong metal beams behind them helps. steel wheels also weigh you down and increase rolling resistance centerlines etc in aluminum save about 80 to 90 pounds also and in the right place just keep a list of weight savings it adds uo and then you need less torque to move out and also use a old superstock trick on the front end limiters. bill grumpy Jenkins came up with the idea for weight transfer otherwise go for the sleeper look. I would also suggest you use a lot more shims at the bottoms of the fenders and paint or rust proof them for proper alignment to the door and rocker the main point for the fenders is mid fender to cowl it makes a huge difference. good luck I know time is crucial.
Cost depends on what you want to do. I got close to $4000 in mine still need headers and exhaust. Edelbrock performer rpm heads, Scorpion rockers, Comp cam and lifters, Liberty timing set, Edelbrock performer intake, Quick Fuel 650 carb, Carter P4600hp fuel pump, Champion aluminum radiator, and of course all the new tune up parts and water pump and other miscellaneous items.
Cost depends on what you want to do. I got close to $4000 in mine still need headers and exhaust. Edelbrock performer rpm heads, Scorpion rockers, Comp cam and lifters, Liberty timing set, Edelbrock performer intake, Quick Fuel 650 carb, Carter P4600hp fuel pump, Champion aluminum radiator, and of course all the new tune up parts and water pump and other miscellaneous items. I like a detailed engine compartment .with good thought process the upkeep is really minimal guys usually just valve covers and timing cover plus air conditioner and alternator for me everything else is aluminum and stainless. I pop the hood after a good run for cooling and most do not believe something pretty can run well but that is my angle to shiny to be taken seriously with class.
Last edited by jfb; March 18th, 2017 at 03:33 PM.
Reason: to add a small qoute
guys here is 1 more thing I do not have a way of uploading pictures. I will notice you at the track and I am sure we will meet somewhere Byron 66 the grove or maybe 41.
Byron is my home track and its 60 mile drive directly west from my house so thats my usual spot but my good friend 67cutlassfreak is 10 min. from the grove and can usually get me in for near nothing ., also a 60 mile drive but its a long winded drive compared to the straight shot.
i have a overdrive and you can get them used even old units from motion performance days. motion was a major player for chevy in the sixties just like nicky and yenko and also harrell out of Kansas city. hone o dives are around periodically but used gvod are more common .I can go on for days about things like this and that's the reason I like these cars history and function. I periodically run a lot more power and if a issue should rise unexpedectly it is good to be closer to home to control costs it can happen. I built my ride with heavy duty parts period so I have a extra once of protection but with looks and perforamce and looking factory stock and new.
Jtb - you hijacking this thread is very helpful for me, that's how I learn, from others. Your post are appreciated. Thanks alot, I love going the local drag strip.
Ronnie