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Home Porting Techniques

Old November 24th, 2018, 02:53 PM
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I have some used Edelbrock heads. The valves donít want to come out for cleaning. The lock groove doesnít want to go through the guide - it must have a burr on it that I canít see.


Does anyone have a trick for turning down this area to get the valve out of the guide? Iím trying not to damage any parts.
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Old November 25th, 2018, 06:06 PM
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You could try some very very fine emery cloth to polish the stem. I would clean the steam and valve guide out with a compatible carb cleaner. There could be a build up of carbon in the guide?
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Old November 25th, 2018, 07:23 PM
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I ended up cutting some strips of flexible cardboard and 220 wet sand paper. I stacked them together and wrapped them around the valve tip. Then I got some vise grips and carefully clamped around the the cardboard. Used WD40 as lube and turned the visegrips in circles. Checking periodically so I wouldnít take off too much material, they all came out.

Arduous process but I got through it with a couple of beverages and some music.
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Old November 25th, 2018, 11:07 PM
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All of them?

Were all the stems like that? Might want to figure out why.
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Old November 26th, 2018, 09:57 AM
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Yes, every one of them was like that. I think the locks slightly deformed the grooves. The locks were very difficult to get off. I bent my spring compressor trying.
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Old November 26th, 2018, 12:53 PM
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Best thread ever. Glad it is back to the top. Shame Dave the freak is not on here more with more threads.
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Old December 3rd, 2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wr1970 View Post
Best thread ever. Glad it is back to the top. Shame Dave the freak is not on here more with more threads.
Is Dave still doing heads?
It is a shame he no longer chimes in!
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Old December 3rd, 2018, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by VinMichael View Post
Yes, every one of them was like that. I think the locks slightly deformed the grooves. The locks were very difficult to get off. I bent my spring compressor trying.
You might want to try smacking the retainers with a socket and 2-3 pound hammer to break the retainers loose from the split locks before trying the spring compressor. The split locks can get wedged real tight in the retainers. I do it on every valve retainer.
.....Just my two cents worth
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Old December 3rd, 2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by OLDSter Ralph View Post
You might want to try smacking the retainers with a socket and 2-3 pound hammer to break the retainers loose from the split locks before trying the spring compressor. The split locks can get wedged real tight in the retainers. I do it on every valve retainer.
.....Just my two cents worth
I ended up taking the ones I couldn't break free to a machinist and he did just that. Good tip.

I don't like how the split locks wore a groove into the valve. I don't trust these valve, I'm buying new ones. But the guides were not damaged.

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Old December 3rd, 2018, 10:11 PM
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Dave's not here man

Well guys I'm still alive and working on heads. Been busy racing all summer, but I did manage to port a set of SB Chevy Edelbrocks recently. I just got done rebuilding a set of 1956 Buick heads. I also picked up 4 more sets of good Olds cores. It is my goal to have a fresh set of fully ported SB & BB heads ready to go on the shelf whenever needed. I also want to offer stock rebuilds with new guides, valves and quality valve job with a bowl blend for budget minded folks. I got my car going even faster with a personal best of 10.55 @ 125 this year. It's time for me to step it up a notch. We have big plans for next years race program. Don't want to say too much right now, but stay tuned.
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Old December 4th, 2018, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 67 Cutlass Freak View Post
Well guys I'm still alive and working on heads. Been busy racing all summer, but I did manage to port a set of SB Chevy Edelbrocks recently. I just got done rebuilding a set of 1956 Buick heads. I also picked up 4 more sets of good Olds cores. It is my goal to have a fresh set of fully ported SB & BB heads ready to go on the shelf whenever needed. I also want to offer stock rebuilds with new guides, valves and quality valve job with a bowl blend for budget minded folks. I got my car going even faster with a personal best of 10.55 @ 125 this year. It's time for me to step it up a notch. We have big plans for next years race program. Don't want to say too much right now, but stay tuned.
Hi Dave
Congrats on the new personal best 10:55 glad to see that you are doing well and enjoying the car.
I'm looking forward to hearing about the changes you have planned for your car.

Last edited by Bernhard; December 4th, 2018 at 07:24 AM.
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Old January 1st, 2019, 04:48 AM
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I think this belongs here. Since my head-guy was reluctant to take part on center-divider filling, it came up to me. For filling heat-risers, we didnt bother/ see that much gain for the effort, i just blocked it by welding intake holes shut.

But back to subject on hand, since im a fan, and increasingly more of it, to modern quality inverter-MMA's, im gonna try welding them. Im first testing it to my extra 8-heads, and do few heat-cycles to them on grill to see what happens, until welding my own heads.

Im trying with Certanium 889SP rod, with 2.4mm electrode. Especially made for repairing cast-iron. Will weld with 50-70A, no pre-heating required, welds through rust and contamination, and gives crack-free results. It has also nice characteristics. Especially the really high elongation% of 29%.

Here you can download data-sheet:

http://www.kenteurope.com/en/products/certanium-889-sp/

Ive personally seen some impressive results by using these rods, on places noone would believe it will last, and theyve lasted so well that they havent needed replacing before next scheduled maintenance, as far as half-a-year later.

Ill keep you in touch when i attempt it.

Last edited by Inline; January 1st, 2019 at 04:52 AM.
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Old January 1st, 2019, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Inline View Post
I think this belongs here. Since my head-guy was reluctant to take part on center-divider filling, it came up to me. For filling heat-risers, we didnt bother/ see that much gain for the effort, i just blocked it by welding intake holes shut.

But back to subject on hand, since im a fan, and increasingly more of it, to modern quality inverter-MMA's, im gonna try welding them. Im first testing it to my extra 8-heads, and do few heat-cycles to them on grill to see what happens, until welding my own heads.

Im trying with Certanium 889SP rod, with 2.4mm electrode. Especially made for repairing cast-iron. Will weld with 50-70A, no pre-heating required, welds through rust and contamination, and gives crack-free results. It has also nice characteristics. Especially the really high elongation% of 29%.

Here you can download data-sheet:

http://www.kenteurope.com/en/products/certanium-889-sp/

Ive personally seen some impressive results by using these rods, on places noone would believe it will last, and theyve lasted so well that they havent needed replacing before next scheduled maintenance, as far as half-a-year later.

Ill keep you in touch when i attempt it.
What are you looking to weld the center exhaust port divider?
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Old January 1st, 2019, 01:09 PM
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Yes, i thought to do that.
If that rod works well and wont break the head, ill then weld my heads going to my car, so it gets some real miles and heat-cycles. That would be really easy way to fill the gap instead of all kind of clips and such. " I mig'd it" really dont tell alot of wire, gas and heat used. Working rod type, used amperage and welding procedure used, if working, would set an easy "standard" instead of all kinds of magic tricks to complete it, without that much variables.

Last edited by Inline; January 1st, 2019 at 01:26 PM.
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Old January 1st, 2019, 03:16 PM
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Let us know how it works.
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