What you got ? Need some pictures of set up. To be used on a GM 12 bolt . My current 60 foot not good enough at 1.62/1.65 range.1967 Cutlass supreme ,de stroked 455, turbo 400,3440 weight,29/9/15 mt slicks,weld light weight pro star wheels 8",373 full spool,Thanks in advance

 

What car, engine, trans, rear ratio, what brand tires, what size tires, what wheel width, what air pressure ?

 

1967 Cutlass supreme ,destroked 455,turbo 400,373 full spool rear gear,MT slicks29/9/15, weld 8" light weight pro star wheels,air pressure 19 pound/20,weight of car 3440. I hope this is enough information.

 

Is that a 425?

 

Man you made my day! No it's not a 425. A destroked 455 is what happens when the stroke is less than the factory 4.25 crank stoke for a 455 engine. My crank stroke is a 4.09 plus bore. Making my engine a 450 ci. With a 455 block. Less stroke less ci.😂 Let's put it this way . I would have liked to put my foot in the machine shop guys rearend so far he would be chewing on the toe of my tennis shoe! He made a bad mistake. I gave him a recipe for a 480 ci and he failed to tell me with the parts I gave him that the pin height on my pistons were wrong. He should have told me to buy different pistons with correct pin height so he could increase stroke with the rods I supplied. To this day I am mad at that machine shop but he is dead. And the shop no longer exist. There is more to this story but no sense in rehashing it all. I was totally left out in the decision process.

 

Can we please get back to the original question ? I don't think anything posted yet deals with my question. I have tried to answer as best I can. Show me what you guys are using to get below 160 on 60 foot hoping for something around 140/150 range. No I am not getting any wheel spin at launch. So evidently I am not using something correctly or need different set up.

 

I have the SSM lift bars (same as these) in place of my rear LCAs, and use Edlebrock adjustable UCAs to dial in pinion angle. Also added aftermarket frame stiffeners that triangulate the upper and lower control arm chassis mounting points. A 442 rear sway ties the lift bars together. Stock springs and shocks for now (future upgrades planned). Probably not the best setup, but it helps on the street.

 

No wheel spin
Need more power or higher stall.
Shocks, suspension parts are to keep the tires planted.

 

It seems logical to me that if you are not spinning tires at launch, Your torque converter stall could be problem OR you have a mess under the hood. Your problem is not traction, its lack of horsepower. And I am leaning toward a miscobobulated engine parts that aren't making power.
.........Just my two cents worth.

 

I have a weld in TRZ ARB.
Although I really didn’t need it for traction but more to level the car at launch, it does plant the tires nicely.
1.48 60ft. It NEVER spins the Drag Radials.

(and I did shorten the down rods)
If you don’t want the weld in I hear the HRbar arb works well.

 

Post your best time slip

 

I don't disagree that it isn't making high horse power. Best ET 1/4 mile with this engine in Drive was 11.78. I don't shift it when racing. Seems to be more consistent this way. As for misconbobulated nah . This car leaves very well just think I can get more of a better 60 foot. I am using air bag on the passenger side, no sway bar,boxed lowers control arms and boxes uppers. Home made boxed using factory arms.

 

I think this is more what I am looking for but those arms are hanging down low on the front side. Thanks for posting.

 

I don't disagree but I have no roll bar. And anti sway is also helping. I am foot braking at 1800 rpm stall is a 4000 converter. I have no button. I have a reverse manual valve body transmission but the stator is busted so it needs to be repaired. Using a regular turbo 400 till next year. Thanks for your reply.

 

Yes. I had shorter ones made that are parallel to the ground.

 

Cool thank you

 

I’m a newbie to drag racing, but off the line is it a lack of horsepower or a lack of torque?

 

What are you spinning at the stripe with 373’s? 29” tire is pretty tall more gear would help. 4.10’s?

 

I need more information on your combination as in carb and cam. I have a 507 BBO that runs 6.85 in the 1/8 and 10.87 in the quarter. That is on a 28/10.5 15 with 3.91 gear. 4.56 did not improve anything. Fastest ran with rear 1 1/18 rear sway bar and 2 bags over new A RB setup.

 

Carb is a 850 demon . The cam card I need to look for. World of difference in a 450 cubic inch and a 506. With this engine 7.48 1/8 mile I have no slips for quarter mile . My guess is 11.87/11.92 with current set up .

 

There's two recent time slips for 1/8 mile. They aren't running quarter mile this year. I haven't been out most of the year. Only two times. 8/9 slips total. I hope to go again before bad weather sets in.

 

Where did you go? I gave you more info.

 

Not nearly enough gear for a dedicated drag car fke the 1/4 and even worse for the 1/8

 

Absolutely correct!

 

What's your suggestion?

 

Got a suggestion?

 

With a 29 inch tire a 4.30 or 4.56 gear, depending upon your rpm where you make max power.

 

I doubt either will work because of what you stated RPM at max power would exceed the motor with no girdle. I do have a 4.10 full spool I could try. But I don't think between a 3.73 and 4.10 much difference. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

The fact that you are not spinning means you currently do not need to change the suspension.
Changing it will do nothing unless it improves traction (which it cannot if you aren't spinning now) or by reducing weight.

Since you do not spin, then you can try 2 things...

A lighter 28" or shorter tire will take less HP to turn & will make the car faster as long as it hooks.

Also, with your current (or any) tire, keep increasing the tire pressure until 60ft get worse & then back off slightly.
This reduces rolling resistance & can make the car faster overall but will not likely improve your 60ft.
Many people assume a slick needs low pressure, you only need to go as low as necessary to hook the car.

Are you running radial or bias slicks?

 

20 pounds on m/T slicks. Smaller tire is more rpm same issue as running motor past block limit . I have no girdle. I like your thinking. Rev limiter is at 6600 and I bump it as it is shifting. I am running this car in drive only. So I am thinking as you usually get the shift light at 200/300 before Rev limiter. So I am thinking it's shifting at 6300 from second to drive.

 

Here's 2 things I see. You Rev it to over 6k and that is beyond what should be. You have 2 issues not enough power and not enough gear. I shift my 507 at 6300. That's all it has and makes 648hp.

 

Yeah but again rocket block 509 ? Or a factory 455 stroked to make a 509 ci big difference apple to a orange. If it is a 455 factory block you have to have a girdle. My engine is internal balanced with a correct sfi balancer and sfi flywheel. 450 CI with a forged crank offset ground.

 

if you are bumping to 6600 on the 1/2 &3 shift, you are no where near 6600 through the lights

you need to go through the traps at 6600 also. you aren’t doing that with 3:73’s in the 1/4

you need to use all your gears and rpm…you need more gear to use up 3rd

 

doesn't hit limiter in third only from second to third the light comes on but limiter isn't make any stutter. That's why I think it's shifting at 6300 from 2nd to third. There is no light coming on from first to second in drive. So it is a early shift running through drive. I agree in third not going even close to 6300.

 

This information from everyone has given me food for thought and insight. Thank you one and all .

 

I know it’s not anywhere near the limiter at the stripe, and that’s wrong. that’s what I said.

you need more gear or a much shorter tire, maybe both to reach your peak rpm going through the finish line. that’ll help your 60 and et

 

thank for your reply. I understand what you are saying.. Have a wonderful day.

 

I’m running UMI lower control arms, adjustable uppers, 3.73 gears and 295/55R15 Mickey Thompson ET streets. My best 60ft has been 1.58.

My launch method is to stage the car, bring the engine just above idle (enough to take all the “slack” out of the drivetrain, but not enough to really load anything) and swap feet on the last yellow. It works very well.

 

I have used the bolt in lift bars that clamp your rearend pinion case and raise the center of gravity, make your rear plant down on a few cars. I have also used the south side machine brand on many different cars. I like the bolt on lift bars better. They seem to plant harder. but you still need to use stiff aftermarket control arms top and bottom.
Also dick miller has a good book out about launch control, probably pick it up on Amazon.

 

I should edit my post by saying if you are building a proturing type road car and want better handling also, the south side lift bars are better. They also accept the rear swing arm.