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1972 Olds 442 Convertible (4,100 lbs with driver) ran a 7.69 @ 90mph (1/8th mile)
Olds 455 - 10.5:1 compression (nodular iron factory crank internally balanced, Eagle Rods, CP Pistons, SpeedMaster Heads)
Headers with full exhaust/tailpipes
4.10 Chevy 12-Bolt Differential
2004R overdrive trans
Not too bad for a cruising/show car. It's not a race car, so the ET is pretty decent for the weight of the car. Porting the cylinder heads would help with some more power.
Nice job! Great to see another Lonnie 2004R in an Olds. I have the stage 2 in my 70 Supreme with a 374 SBO. I had a few questions for you if you don't mind sharing:
1. What converter are you running? Lonnie suggested this one for mine: R&R 9.5” 3000-3200 non-lockup converter. I'm pretty happy with it for street and hwy but not sure about 60 ft times w/a launch. Your 1.7 is impressive. I see you have 4.10 gears, I've got 3.90s so at least in the same range.
2. Did you just leave it in OD and let it shift on it's own via the governor or did you manually shift?
3. What RPM does your governor shift at WOT? I'm never aloud to contact Lonnie again about governor changes It took 3 tries to get mine right. I paid him each time but he said he won't do it anymore for me. It shifts around 5800 to 6000 at WOT now (slightly different for each gear) which is perfect for the max hp with the 374.
Damn! What pressure? I have 555Rs and can't make them work better than a 1.85
18 psi
I have fully boxed heavy gauge steel lower control arms, tubular adjustable uppers and a really large rear sway bar. So the car hooks really well at the track. I believe the pinion angle was set at negative 3.5 degrees
Nice job! Great to see another Lonnie 2004R in an Olds. I have the stage 2 in my 70 Supreme with a 374 SBO. I had a few questions for you if you don't mind sharing:
1. What converter are you running? Lonnie suggested this one for mine: R&R 9.5” 3000-3200 non-lockup converter. I'm pretty happy with it for street and hwy but not sure about 60 ft times w/a launch. Your 1.7 is impressive. I see you have 4.10 gears, I've got 3.90s so at least in the same range.
2. Did you just leave it in OD and let it shift on it's own via the governor or did you manually shift?
3. What RPM does your governor shift at WOT? I'm never aloud to contact Lonnie again about governor changes It took 3 tries to get mine right. I paid him each time but he said he won't do it anymore for me. It shifts around 5800 to 6000 at WOT now (slightly different for each gear) which is perfect for the max hp with the 374.
Thanks!
-Joe
Only like 3-4 builders really know how to build a 2004R to withstand the power levels of 500+ LbFt. Lonnie is one of them.
1 - I am running an old school "9/11" lockup (single disc) converter with a 2,800 stall. Bruce Toelle designed this converter which is basically a 9" and 11" converter, welded as one. The lockup is activated by toggle switch and drop RPM in overdrive by around 200-400 RPM and keeps trans temps down. If I ever change out the converter, I would go with a Precision Industries with a multi-disc lockup.
2 - I manually shift it with the factory Dual-Gate. Two advantages to shifting manually, is that the trans line pressure goes max high when in Manual 1 and Manual 2 and Manual 3. This protects the clutches from slipping. It also activates a special band or plate (I forgot what Lonnie said) when in Manual 1. This also helps protect the trans. Nothing wrong with leaving it in Drive but then you rely on the governor shift point and line pressure is not as high.
3 - When in Drive, the governor in my trans, at WOT, shifts around 5300 - 5500 RPM. So it shifts a little early but as you mentioned, adjusting the governor shift point is a big hassle so I just left it alone.
One key thing with 2004R's is to keep the fluid clean and cool. My trans never sees temps above 180F. It usually runs in the 150F range, especially with the lockup activated.
How long have you had your 2004R?
I figured it would be a 12.00 or maybe in the 11.90s in the 1/4 mile. We almost ran the same 1/8th mile ET and MPH.
If our cars could lost some weight and go on a diet, that would help our ETs
I'm sure I can get it in 11.90's. A bit cautions leaving on the converter. Have a C K performance transmission with a 9.5 3200 stall lockup converter. So kind of rolling out before hammering it. Some day I'll have the guts to beat it up.
Damn! What pressure? I have 555Rs and can't make them work better than a 1.85
Yeah but a 1.85 with a manual is similar to a 1.7 with an automatic in my opinion. Just say'n - much harder to get that 60ft dialed in. Plus the 555R2s are supposed to be a little better then the 555Rs.
Only like 3-4 builders really know how to build a 2004R to withstand the power levels of 500+ LbFt. Lonnie is one of them.
1 - I am running an old school "9/11" lockup (single disc) converter with a 2,800 stall. Bruce Toelle designed this converter which is basically a 9" and 11" converter, welded as one. The lockup is activated by toggle switch and drop RPM in overdrive by around 200-400 RPM and keeps trans temps down. If I ever change out the converter, I would go with a Precision Industries with a multi-disc lockup.
2 - I manually shift it with the factory Dual-Gate. Two advantages to shifting manually, is that the trans line pressure goes max high when in Manual 1 and Manual 2 and Manual 3. This protects the clutches from slipping. It also activates a special band or plate (I forgot what Lonnie said) when in Manual 1. This also helps protect the trans. Nothing wrong with leaving it in Drive but then you rely on the governor shift point and line pressure is not as high.
3 - When in Drive, the governor in my trans, at WOT, shifts around 5300 - 5500 RPM. So it shifts a little early but as you mentioned, adjusting the governor shift point is a big hassle so I just left it alone.
One key thing with 2004R's is to keep the fluid clean and cool. My trans never sees temps above 180F. It usually runs in the 150F range, especially with the lockup activated.
How long have you had your 2004R?
Thanks for all the info. I've had the trans for 4 or 5 years now probably about 4 or 5k hard miles on it. Pretty much every time I drive or my son drives it, it's just for fun with lots of WOT blasts. That's really cool that you manually shift the dual gate. Mine has a dual gate too but I just don't trust it enough yet to do the WOT shifting plus I can leave it in drive and when it shifts at 5800 to 6000 is always a crisp hard shift and so easy to do. I've never heard about the pressure being higher and better for the clutches to shift manually that's good to know. Also interesting that you have a lock up converter. Lonnie hard sold me there was no need for a lock up. Everything I read said they get too hot without one and Lonnie said that's total BS. He told me he could do mine with a lockup but there's zero need for it. I've never had any issues so I guess he's right.
Yeah but a 1.85 with a manual is similar to a 1.7 with an automatic in my opinion. Just say'n - much harder to get that 60ft dialed in. Plus the 555R2s are supposed to be a little better then the 555Rs.
-Joe
I definitely won't be buying another pair, though.
One is always worried about breaking something or the person in the other lane losing it.
The 2004R trans is a Stage 3 Lonnie Diers build with billet parts. It's meant to take 10 second runs in Buick GN's.
I will add aluminum drums in the back to help lose some rotating weight and maybe get rid of the fan clutch and fan and run electric fans.
There was a thread on class racer where they had aluminum drum failure under drag racing conditions. You have a heavy car with a major power upgrade you might want to check it out.
Thanks for all the info. I've had the trans for 4 or 5 years now probably about 4 or 5k hard miles on it. Pretty much every time I drive or my son drives it, it's just for fun with lots of WOT blasts. That's really cool that you manually shift the dual gate. Mine has a dual gate too but I just don't trust it enough yet to do the WOT shifting plus I can leave it in drive and when it shifts at 5800 to 6000 is always a crisp hard shift and so easy to do. I've never heard about the pressure being higher and better for the clutches to shift manually that's good to know. Also interesting that you have a lock up converter. Lonnie hard sold me there was no need for a lock up. Everything I read said they get too hot without one and Lonnie said that's total BS. He told me he could do mine with a lockup but there's zero need for it. I've never had any issues so I guess he's right.
-Joe
What engine are you running now? I've seen photos of a 455 but you mentioned a SBO also.
What trans fluid are you running? I've used synthetic Dexron VI with a few ounces of Lube Guard.
There was a thread on class racer where they had aluminum drum failure under drag racing conditions. You have a heavy car with a major power upgrade you might want to check it out.
I don't run aluminum in the trans on the street, its always wearing. Aluminum brake drums YES.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Mar 9, 2023 at 06:11 PM.
I don't run aluminum in the trans on the street, its always wearing. Aluminum brake drums YES.
Mark
I just recall that some had drum failure running the aluminum drums with steel liners. I know some racers that like to stand on the brakes at the finish line. I will see if I can find the thread.
I will look into that. Are aluminum drums more prone to failure over cast iron?
There was a thread on the steel liners in the factory drums that failed under racing conditions.
I will see if I can find the thread.
I remember seeing a lot of GM class cars running them, prior to the rule change allowing aftermarket racing disc brakes. A lot of racers stand on the brakes at the finish line.
Last edited by Bernhard; Mar 10, 2023 at 06:58 AM.
So I took a look for the thread and was unable to find it. I did find some threads on selling and buying aluminum drums. The reason I remember the thread is because I have a set that I want to use one day on my build. Like I said before some racers stand on the brakes at the finish line. Like any part failure it could be down to many factors and it seems like that there are racers still running them.
Mark
I just recall that some had drum failure running the aluminum drums with steel liners. I know some racers that like to stand on the brakes at the finish line. I will see if I can find the thread.
First I machine the fins off, saves 2 LBS, I've run them on all my cars rears for many years.
What's also sad is that when a Tesla Plaid pulls up to the starting line and runs 9.50s
(8.83 @ 161MPH is the new world record for a Tesla Plaid)
I see the writing on the wall and realize that our cars and all ICE's are on borrowed time. One day, ICE's will be like telephone booths, typewriters, VHS tapes, Encyclopedia's, etc. It's coming, like it or not, it will happen, it's just a timing issue. Might take 10-20 or even 30 years, but it will happen.
At the soon to be closed forever Firebird Raceway. They will close and bulldoze this 40+ year old track at the end of this year.
Are you talking about wild horse? I would be the wrong person to ask about the intake, I've never used a Torker intake on a Olds. Non of my cars were 4000 plus pounds, so maybe steel drums are best, but getting rid of the fan will pick you up.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; Mar 10, 2023 at 08:45 PM.
Nice
Mark that is a very creative way to shed a few more pounds.
I will do anything to shed weight from anything that turns. My shop truck has huge heavy disc brakes, huge heavy rear brake drums, ridiculous heavy two piece drive shaft, and I lose sleep over it every night.
What's also sad is that when a Tesla Plaid pulls up to the starting line and runs 9.50s
(8.83 @ 161MPH is the new world record for a Tesla Plaid)
I see the writing on the wall and realize that our cars and all ICE's are on borrowed time. One day, ICE's will be like telephone booths, typewriters, VHS tapes, Encyclopedia's, etc. It's coming, like it or not, it will happen, it's just a timing issue. Might take 10-20 or even 30 years, but it will happen.
Nice runs by the way, must be fun as hell. Yeah, ICE cars are soon to be extinct. Gas prices here are getting stupid again and carbon carbon tax is increasing every year here, another 7 cents per liter in April. Exactly why I got my RPM converted to SEFI, I need a mileage machine apparently. Our local track closed a couple years back and now it is a 4 hour trek to the nearest one. Enjoy it, while it lasts.
Are you talking about wild horse? I would be the wrong person to ask about the intake, I've never used a Torker intake on a Olds. Non of my cars were 4000 plus pounds, so maybe steel drums are best, but getting rid of the fan will pick you up.
It took 3 tries to get mine right. I paid him each time but he said he won't do it anymore for me. It shifts around 5800 to 6000 at WOT now (slightly different for each gear) which is perfect for the max hp with the 374.
Firebird Raceway. They will close and bulldoze this 40+ year old track at the end of this year.
